2.2 turbo ii comes on & off under heavy acceleration

Under heavy acceleration the turbo comes on and off and sputters.

Under heavy acceleration the turbo comes on and off and sputters.

Could be fuel, could be timing, could be sensor, check for engine codes, with this kind of problem you should have at least one.

Could also be the knock sensor trying to save the engine! Definitely get it checked. Post up where you are for a mechanic that knows the engines.

Under heavy acceleration the turbo comes on and off and sputters.

I live in Vancouver, Washington. The codes are 12 and 14.

I live in Vancouver, Washington. The codes are 12 and 14.

12 is the memory cleared code, if you've had the battery cable off recently this would be a normal display.

14 is the MAP sensor, this could be bad because it's bad, or because it doesn't agree with what's actually happening, or; the vacuum line might not be connected. The MAP mounts to a bracket that is mounted to the passenger side strut tower, this rubber vacuum line is long, old and easily pulled free when the air box that doesn't like to come off easily is wrestled free from it's vacuum connect or while working on belts and hoses.

Nobody knows more about this motor than Hemi, if he says your waste gate isn't working; it's not working. If that's not working your MAP sensor is doing it's job. If you have an open vacuum line it will mess with your waste gate, if your heater control is also defaulted to defrost and won't go to dash or floor vent, odds are you have at least one open vacuum line and it's open before the waste gate, if your heater control works and your long line to the MAP is connected as it should be that hotter than Hell hard to get your hands to waste gate is the place you need to go.

I just checked the MAP sensor. The sensor holds vacuum. The volt readings on the red wire are just under 2V but decreases as vacuum is applied. The other voltage and ground check out correctly. The vacuum hoses appear to be OK.

I just checked the MAP sensor. The sensor holds vacuum. The volt readings on the red wire are just under 2V but decreases as vacuum is applied. The other voltage and ground check out correctly. The vacuum hoses appear to be OK.

Sometimes you get lucky, sometimes you don't. Sounds like the MAP is doing it's job, the easy to get at vacuum lines are good and you know where you have to go next. Even with a small light and a good inspection mirror this is kind of a "B" to see.

I found a broken vacuum tube going nowhere that came from the left side of the engine. I traced it to the waste gate. I think it is supposed to go to the barametric solenoid from the waste gate. There was a capped 'T' vacuum connection at the Barametric solenoid. That's where I connected it.

I found a broken vacuum tube going nowhere that came from the left side of the engine. I traced it to the waste gate. I think it is supposed to go to the barametric solenoid from the waste gate. There was a capped 'T' vacuum connection at the Barametric solenoid. That's where I connected it.

It should be connected at the WASTEGATE SOLENOID mounted on the right shock tower. There should be a broken vacuum line from one of the solenoids there. Connect the 2 broken lines with a proper fitting rubber vacuum hose.

Are the preformed vacuum hoses and vacuum source lines available anywhere?