WTB 1967 distribution block

I'm converting my '64 to a dual reservoir system and the instruction that are on the ROA's website suggests that I use a distribution block from a 1967 Riviera that has drum/drum brakes. If anyone has one, please let me know. If anyone has found a suitable alternative, I'd like to know that as well.

The inner fenders are off the car right now and everything is easily accessible. Need do it now!

Thanks,

Ed

I'm converting my '64 to a dual reservoir system and the instruction that are on the ROA's website suggests that I use a distribution block from a 1967 Riviera that has drum/drum brakes. If anyone has one, please let me know. If anyone has found a suitable alternative, I'd like to know that as well.

The inner fenders are off the car right now and everything is easily accessible. Need do it now!

Thanks,

Ed

Ed, Use the existing distribution block and plug the port which now feeds the rear brakes. Run the brake line which will feed the rear brakes directly, not thru any distribution block, to the rear brakes from one of the ports on the `67 master.

Tom Mooney

Thanks Tom. Winner, winner chicken dinner. If I 'picture' this correctly, the OE block has one port in and three ports out - one out to the rear brakes, and one port each to each of the fronts. I'll leave the two to the front as is, block the third port, then run a line directly from the rear reservoir to the back brakes. The car is over at Matt's shop right now so I can't look at it. I'll see it Monday and it will all become clear. If I understand from past remarks, I should not use a union in the line to the rear, but fabricate a new line all the way back.

Ed

PS - IF there would be any interest in this, I'll photograph everything as I go and post pictures with descriptions when I'm finished.

That would be great Ed,I'll be headed in that direction soon.Thanks.Tim...

PS - IF there would be any interest in this.

Count me in, we know how you love to teach.

Steve

Thanks Tom. Winner, winner chicken dinner. If I 'picture' this correctly, the OE block has one port in and three ports out - one out to the rear brakes, and one port each to each of the fronts. I'll leave the two to the front as is, block the third port, then run a line directly from the rear reservoir to the back brakes. The car is over at Matt's shop right now so I can't look at it. I'll see it Monday and it will all become clear. If I understand from past remarks, I should not use a union in the line to the rear, but fabricate a new line all the way back.

Ed

PS - IF there would be any interest in this, I'll photograph everything as I go and post pictures with descriptions when I'm finished.

Ed, I dont know about the chicken dinner but you are correct in your understanding of my suggestion. That is the way I always have done the conversion. It`s OK to use a union, especially if you are using typical steel lines, as opposed to stainless which is harder to get a perfect seal at the flare, but the ideal situation would be to eliminate as many connections, and therefore potential leak points, as possible.

Tom Mooney

Thanks,

For you other guys reading this, it means that you don't have to 1) Find that distribution block, and 2) make a new bracket on which the new one would sit.

This makes the job a lot easier, no fabrication unless you want to run new lines - which probably isn't a bad idea on a 50 year old car. New line, new m/c, new wheel cylinders and it's like brand new. You could even, if you chose, put the new DOT 5 brake fluid in the system.

If you're doing this to a '63, you could use the third port (the one I'm blocking off on my '64) for your brake light switch. It may take some splicing of wires and an adapter but nothing too difficult.

Thanks, Tom

Ed

Hi Ed,

I'm currently in the middle of this conversion as well on my drum/drum '63. Based on that same Riview article, I ordered a distribution block, model PR106A from Inline Tube in Shelby Township, MI. But on Kaber's advice, it is not needed. I'm in the middle of this process because after switching to a dual master and later booster, my brakes are now ridiculously over-sensitive at very low speeds, versus before, when I had hardly any assist at higher speeds. I just had my original '63 booster rebuilt by Booster Dewey and will install it next week, along with that all-important 0-ring that's needed between the master cylinder and the booster. I'll let everyone know if that solves my problem.

Thanks,

For you other guys reading this, it means that you don't have to 1) Find that distribution block, and 2) make a new bracket on which the new one would sit.

This makes the job a lot easier, no fabrication unless you want to run new lines - which probably isn't a bad idea on a 50 year old car. New line, new m/c, new wheel cylinders and it's like brand new. You could even, if you chose, put the new DOT 5 brake fluid in the system.

If you're doing this to a '63, you could use the third port (the one I'm blocking off on my '64) for your brake light switch. It may take some splicing of wires and an adapter but nothing too difficult.

Thanks, Tom

Ed

On the '63 Riv (not need on '64 and later) I tell owners to put in a T-fitting instead of a union on the line between the rear axle and the line up to the Master cylinder. Two of the connections are flared brake lines that act like a union. The 3rd connection on the T-fitting is pipe threads that the brake light switch will screw right into. Use teflon sealant on the threads.

The original brake light switch wire will reach down to a place on the frame next to the original distribution block, where you are now putting the brake light switch, without cutting the factory wires . They are long enough to reach.

www.InlineTube.com sells this T-fitting.