1964 Riviera Oil Pump

How hard is it to replace the oil pump in my 1964 Riviera? Is it inside the oil pan and accessible?

Removal of the pan is a necessity. Removal of the pan requires unbolting the engine mounts and raising the engine so the pan will clear the chassis. Not an easy job, especially if you're trying it in your garage. The distributor is right at the firewall, and various other considerations must be made.

Ed

Removal of the pan is a necessity. Removal of the pan requires unbolting the engine mounts and raising the engine so the pan will clear the chassis. Not an easy job, especially if you're trying it in your garage. The distributor is right at the firewall, and various other considerations must be made.

Ed

Thanks Ed. I appreciate it.

The problem I am having is the oil light comes on, but only after I have been driving on the freeway and then slow down. It does not come on while I am driving on the freeway. And it does not come on unless I have been driving on the freeway. And I can let the car idle for 20 minutes and it won't come on. Odd, right? Any ideas, other than the oil pump? I notice that OldBuickParts.com has an Adjustable Oil Pressure Regulator (OPR600-4). Does anyone have any experience with this part? Any ideas? I am going to replace the oil pressure switch. Thanks again!

Greetings Vermont! The freeway probably doesn't have anything to do with the problem other than the fact that you're going farther & faster, the engine is heating up, everything is expanding, the oil is thinning, and under those conditions you can expect the oil pressure to drop, especially in an old engine. You could try a motor oil with a higher viscosity or an additive like STP. Or I suppose you could have a faulty sending unit. I always worry about oil pressure, and one of the best things I ever did for my own peace of mind was to install an oil gauge. I resisted doing this for years because I've always hated the sight of aftermarket gauges hanging under the dash. THe only suitable alternative I've seen is mounting them inside the ashtray door, but that requires cutting and is problematic in a number of other ways. Then I got a brainstorm! I don't really use my clock....I don't drive the Riv that often anyway, & when I park it I always disconnect the juice with one of those green knobbed cut-off switches on the battery. I discovered that your standard size(2 1/2" ?) oil pressure gauge fits almost perfectly in the clock hole. The clock is easily removed, the oil gauge easily installed, and it's in the perfect location for someone who frets about oil pressure,( which by the way should be everyone who drives an oldie.) I went on a quest to find the gauge that best matched my other instruments and that turned out to be the hard part. I scoured Ebay and all the local parts stores... there are many different gauges, few of which resemble the stock instrumentation. I finally found what I was looking for...... actually I just went out to look for the box and couldn't find it but it is a SunPro gauge and the background and numerals almost match the Rivs. It is lighted and included easy instructions on how to install it and hook it up to the clock wire, then find a thin piece of rubber or tape to wrap the flange and wedge it in the hole. The tubing from the gauge to the sending unit can easily be routed through the dash alongside the bundle of vacuum hoses. It looks as stock as can be, and will make you wonder why there wasn't one there all along. And the best thing is it can easily be reversed should you ever decide to do so. Drew

Hey Billy!

From what I have been told, the regulator will only set a limit for max oil pressure. So it probably won't help in this scenario. The oil pressure switch is probably working correctly if it detects the drop in pressure with hot oil. I hate to say it, but it's looking like the pump is the problem....hopefully someone can correct me if I'm wrong.