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parts neded


db17

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Hello guys,

I've started to work on my 1929 Dodge Brothers Standard Six. I have noticed a couple of parts I'm going to need. I hope someone has some extra parts. The window guides for the middle windows are gone, (only middle windows). Not the part that rolls the window up and down but the part where the window glass inserts into. I also need a 19 in wheel, wooden spokes.

If anyone happens to have any of these parts I would be glad to take them off your hands.

I have been reading allot about the problems with this carburetor on the engine. The carburetor on it is a Stromberg UX-2. I have an extra carb, a U-2. Which would be the best to rebuild? Or could I replace it with a carburetor off a 1953 Dodge Six which I also have.

Thanks for the help!!

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The 1953 carburetor would be a downdraft and the 1929 carburetor would be an updraft, so no....the '53 carb will not work. If you are referring to the vertical window felt channels, you should be able to find them here....http://stores.restorationspecialties.com/window-channel/

Edited by keiser31 (see edit history)
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The Stromberg U series are a good reliable carburetor The problem is the metal that they were made from is a very early pot metal and unfortunately it does silly things,like grows and cracks crumbles and such like The old timer mechanics in Aust refered to it as s--t metal for this reason I have heard that there are cast iron versions of these carbys as well but I have never come across one yet Myers are agents for Classic and Vintage Reproductions and the do a complete carby cast in aluminum They are pricey though

The difference between a UX2 and A U2 is the mounting flange Th U2 flange is parallel to the manifold ane the UX2 is at right angles THe internals should be the same

I hope that I have been of some help Ron

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Thanks for the replies.

I see the crumbling pot metal on the carburetor. I also see it on the distributor. On the distributor the metal is splitting into layers. Money is an issue, but i want to

keep it as original as possible. What would you knowledgeable guys suggest i do? rebuild the u2-x or find another carb?.

Thanks!

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My 1928 Senior had a Stromberg TX-2 which had the same pot metal problem. It took 3 of them to get enough decent parts to make one working carb. It ran great the whole week in Detroit but after I got home it started leaking a lot of gas. The metal had cracked between the float bowl and the main body. At least it waited until after the meet. All other TX-2 carbs I have seen, and I looked at Hershey this year, were just as bad or worse. I decided to go with a Carter BB 1. The Carter chart recommended the 289SD for the Dodge Senior and I just happened to find one in a box of parts I had. I don't even know where I got it but who was I to argue. I overhauled it and made an adapter because the flange is 90 degrees different. After fixing some ignition problems I finally fired it up last week and it runs great and I haven't even adjusted the carb yet. It's not original but it is driveable which is more important to me. The one recommended for the Standard Six is the Carter BB 1 A Special.

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Hi RWperry, found a BB-1 on ebay, do you know if this would work? Bid ends in 5 hours.

Carter BB-1 carb. 2 15/16" center to center on mounting. Adjustable main jet for use on 4, 6 or 8 cyl. vehicles. Excellent condition. Has been COMPLETELY disassembled, cleaned and put back together finger tight so you can install the rebuilding kit yourself (takes 30 minutes--I don't want the insurance liability of doing rebuilding). Totally complete. Includes adjustable main jet, NEW accelerator pump and power valve springs, NEW throttle arm, NEW ethanol compatible gaskets and needle and seat rebuilding kit

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The difference between a UX2 and A U2 is the mounting flange Th U2 flange is parallel to the manifold ane the UX2 is at right angles THe internals should be the same

I hope that I have been of some help Ron

If this is the case it's not terribly difficult to make an adapter plate so the U2 carb could be used.

It would need to be thick enough to either counter bore and bury a couple Allen head screws or less thick to hold a couple studs.

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