63 Rivi Transmission, Torque Converter: Need help with Rebuild, Repair, Replace or parts

Hey all.... I am new to the forum and have a 63 Rivi I bought 38 years ago in 1976. My wife says fix it up or get rid of it... and WHO am I to argue? We have gone through the engine, transmission, drive line, suspension, and most recently the rear end. The car is okay to drive around town, but at above 1800 rpm or about 55 - 60 mph the car begins to shudder. By process of elimination we believe the torque converter is creating the vibration, which can be felt with the car in park or driving. This is an early production '63, (120 mph speedo, smooth dash etc), mated to the twin turbine dynaflow.

QUESTION: Anyone have any ideas or suggestions on either a good shop to rebuild the torque converter, or where replacement parts may be found? Thanks for your help in advance! 63 Rivi Owner in Tennessee

Hey all.... I am new to the forum and have a 63 Rivi I bought 38 years ago in 1976. My wife says fix it up or get rid of it... and WHO am I to argue? We have gone through the engine, transmission, drive line, suspension, and most recently the rear end. The car is okay to drive around town, but at above 1800 rpm or about 55 - 60 mph the car begins to shudder. By process of elimination we believe the torque converter is creating the vibration, which can be felt with the car in park or driving. This is an early production '63, (120 mph speedo, smooth dash etc), mated to the twin turbine dynaflow.

QUESTION: Anyone have any ideas or suggestions on either a good shop to rebuild the torque converter, or where replacement parts may be found? Thanks for your help in advance! 63 Rivi Owner in Tennessee

Ed can chime in here, but I believe on these nailhead engines it is very easy to install the flywheel incorrectly, which

would result in the symptom you describe because it throws the crank out of balance. Also, when you worked on the engine did you torque the harmonic balancer bolt properly? I think the spec is something like 225 foot lbs. If the balancer comes loose it will do what your car is doing until it finally flies apart. Just want to cover

all the bases.

Why me? I think that Seafoam has led you down the right path. Make sure the converter bolts are tight to the flex plate and make sure the flex plate is "registered" correctly on the crank hub. Five ways to bolt it on incorrectly, only one way to bolt in on correctly. I don't know if you can see the crank hub and flex plate through the inspection cover though. There's a seventh alignment hole that has to align with a drilled relief in the crank hub. Check everything else, as Seafoam mentions, before looking at the flex plate and crank - that will probably require removal of the transmission. Could also be a broken piston or anything else that part of the harmonic balance. If it does it in park, I'd rule out the internal parts of the transmission. The nailhead is internally/externally balanced, It has to have the balancer on the front of the crank and the flex plate on the back to do it correctly.

Tom Mooney is the real expert here, he can chime in as well. My experience comes from research, Tom's comes from hands on.

Ed

Ed can chime in here, but I believe on these nailhead engines it is very easy to install the flywheel incorrectly, which

would result in the symptom you describe because it throws the crank out of balance. Also, when you worked on the engine did you torque the harmonic balancer bolt properly? I think the spec is something like 225 foot lbs. If the balancer comes loose it will do what your car is doing until it finally flies apart. Just want to cover

all the bases.

I appreciate your response but think we are good on both of those issues. We were aware of the harmonic balancer and it appears tight. We are also marking it to watch for movement. We have checked the fly wheel / flex plate to insure correctly lined up with the cute little dimple... also checked and rechecked the balance of the rotating assembly (harmonic balancer thru flex plate), driveline, rear differential, all belt driven accessories etc.... everything you could think of... That is why through process of elimination feel the issue may be worn bushings or something in the torque converter.

I appreciate your response but think we are good on both of those issues. We were aware of the harmonic balancer and it appears tight. We are also marking it to watch for movement. We have checked the fly wheel / flex plate to insure correctly lined up with the cute little dimple... also checked and rechecked the balance of the rotating assembly (harmonic balancer thru flex plate), driveline, rear differential, all belt driven accessories etc.... everything you could think of... That is why through process of elimination feel the issue may be worn bushings or something in the torque converter.

Ed the engine is already at the engine shop and was dis-assembled for the 3rd time, all new parts.... and we re-checked the balance today. The transmission was gone through and appears fine. It was the converter that we couldn't find parts for and think that is where the issue is because nothing has been done there.

There are ads in the ROA's Riview and Hemmings Motor News for vendors who specialize in Dynaflows and parts for them. There is also this guy who the present time has a thread right next to yours. He's not sure yet what he's going to do, but it probably wouldn't hurt to send a PM to him.

http://forums.aaca.org/f177/if-i-sell-whats-car-worth-383075.html

Keep us updated on what the issue turned out to be.