Hupmobile Model 20 Photos

We had an interesting tour yesterday of the Swigert Automobile Museum, including their storage garages. I spotted a Model 20 roadster (labeled as a 1909) that looked fairly original and took some photos. I noted a few things new to me: a little tab cast into the intake manifold holds a stop for the throttle linkage. Also, there is a coil return spring on the carburetor throttle lever. Here is a link:

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Phil

Good reference photos - thanks for posting Phil. I actually added a spring on the throttle linkage of my car very similar to that one. It looks like a very original car but I'm thinking later than 1909?

I've come to a grinding halt on my car waiting for my steering rack and pinion to be rebuilt (nearly there I think) as they were very sloppy. How are you going with your car?

Cheers, Andrew.

The long spring is correct, my car was original when I bought it in '76 and it was there, the attachment holes should be there. I have the tab on my manifold, but never knew what it was for, now I know! Great reference pictures, did you get a serial number? Appears the data plate is missing from the dash, so would have to look at engine/transmission flange for a number.....

No, I didn't check for a serial number. I'll try to get one. The car is in one of the museum's off-site storage garages, so it's not often seen.

Phil

Some very interesting pictures of what appears to be a genuine Model B Hupmobile 1910-11 but definitely not a Model A of 1909, engine and gearbox numbers would verify that. However the car is not original regarding the body. It should have short aluminium step plates with differently shaped rear fenders (mudguards). The dash board has been reproduced out of low grade wood and should have a curved top, not straight like the one in the picture. The side-light brackets should be angled and fastened to the rear of the dashboard with the dashboard supporting brackets on the front having six fasteners and not four. The angle of the fuel tank behind the seat looks too upright, it should slope forwards. The wheel hubs look correct but should have larger aluminium hub caps and not brass ones which were fitted to subsequent models from mid 1911.

Edgar

I didn't look at the side view picture, from that I think it's a late 1910 or early 1911. The long running boards and high light stands make it tend toward 1911, no doors make it tend toward a 1910. I'd bet the serial number is in the 7000 to 8000 range.

I didn't look at the side view picture, from that I think it's a late 1910 or early 1911. The long running boards and high light stands make it tend toward 1911, no doors make it tend toward a 1910. I'd bet the serial number is in the 7000 to 8000 range.

I agree that this car is most likely a Model B made in early 1911 serial number 7000 to 8000 with an old incorrect body restoration based on that of a 1911 Model C without doors which were optional or removeable. One might be tempted to think of it as a Model C, i.e. late 1911 but the rolling chassis has the characteristics of Model B with small size brake drums and bolts on the crankcase to lock the main bearings of the crankshaft in place. The restorer did not know that Model B headlamp gimbals are bolted to the inside of the chassis side rails with the headlamps low set; all traps for the unwary! I have two Model B cars, one in the 5000s and the other in the 7000s, with an original driver's handbook, so can speak with some authority on them.

Edgar

G,day to all Huppers. Well done Edgar. Were you too polite to mention that the top bows are the latest type and one bow short of the earlier example. Also that the number on the engine flange is not the car number that would have been on the missing dash plate That number is on the gearbox cross member on the LHS . Its under the floor board on the top corner of the X member. People that cant find it stamp the dash plate with the more easy found engine number and argue that both numbers are the same the better to fool a next generation custodian. Hey Edgar arn,t the nuts on the sliders the later type as well? For those people not using the throttle stop screw ,how are you setting the idle speed. Max Burke Nulkaba 2325 Australia.

G,day again. I was having another squint at the pictures . Its hard to pick but isn't the bell on the front of the torque tube the later type with screwed pre load adjustment . If so then 1911 might be a good guess. This would make the dashboard top and the sidelight brackets and the mounting of them correct? Are those headlamps electric? Bill Cuthbert always said that The parts were not always fitted in the order that they came from suppliers making improvements staggered all over the calendar. Max Burke Nulkaba 2325 Australia