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Tips on starting a v8nailhead that hasnt run in 15 years??


Guest BigCritch

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Guest BigCritch

Hi Gents,

just put some cash down on my first real Buick, a 1956 Buick Special 2 dr post. Real nice solid car, hailing from Manitoba Canada. As you may know there is not a whole lot of rust free surviors up here. So shes been siting for about 15 years and drove to where she sits up on blocks now. Since she hasnt ran for so long im a little scared of just hooking up a battery and some fresh gas and hitting the key,anyone have any helpful tips on safely starting up this ol v8 nailhead?

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The 1st helpful tip would be to have patience. I know how exciting it can be to get a new toy but just jumping ahead and trying to start it up without, at least, the following precautionary measures being done, can cause major damage and can result in costly repairs

The same would apply to any car that has sat for a few years or more.

Drain the gas tank

Send the tank out to be cleaned/checked/sealed

Blow out the fuel lines

Drain the oil and drop the pan

Clean the inside of the pan

Reinstall oil pan with new gasket

Change oil filter - if equipped with one

Refill engine with fresh/new oil

Pull spark plugs and squirt some oil/lubricant into each cylinder

While plugs are out turn engine over manually to lube the cylinder walls

Reinstall plugs

Check/replace points,cap,rotor,condenser

Now you can try to start it.

Joe

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Drain the oil, change the oil filter canister, and you should probably disconnect the fuel line so the old, gummed up gas does not go into the carburetor or fuel pump. I'm sure the gas tank will need to be taken off and cleaned out. Before cranking with a battery, I would put a 1" socket on the front crankshaft pulley and see if the engine is stuck. Don't force it too hard, or you could bend a push rod or break a piston ring. I would also remove the valve covers and put a teaspoon of Marvel Mystery Oil on every valve stem, and let that drain down to lubricate the valves. If the engine is stuck, remove the spark plugs and put some Marvel Mystery Oil or similar concoction into the spark plug holes to lubricate the pistons & rings. Yes, the exhaust will smoke a lot once you start the engine, but that simply means the oil is lubricating the combustion chambers as it should, and it will go away eventually.

Good luck and show us a photo of your prize!

Pete Phillips, BCA #7338

Leonard, Texas

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And dont be suprised at what you find once you get it going. My water pump impeller looked like a bowl of wet dog food after sitting for numerous years, needless to say, it did not spin.

Brakes are another important item, check and bleed them before getting in the car for a drive.

All the belts an hoses are going to need replacing.

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Yes… great solid advice. We would add one should always remove or loosen all the belts to eliminate the water pump for now on the first hand crankshaft spin or later even on the initial start up. On the nailhead one should as stated remove the valve covers and the spark plugs first thing even before attaching that 1-inch socket to the crank bolt and attempting to turn the engine crank with it. You want to check to see if the hydraulic lifters are not frozen which would if you tried to turn the crank and worst yet, attempt to cold start the engine, result in bent push rods and possible valve stem damage. To check, simply depress down on the rocker arm where each valve stem head, eight on each bank meets the rocker arm perch. The push rod should depress just a little. This means the spring inside of the hydraulic lifter is not frozen. If you find some that do not, then I would remove the intake manifold and valley cover and check things out first before going any further. Remember, one watches all those cowboys on youtube videos pulling hibernating barn finds out into the daylight and attempting to start the engines with very little prep and even less I.Q., are in the end just milling out most likely a perfectly good engine and ruining it into oblivion.

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