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1931 Hupmobile Model S Coupe Rebuild


lynch_man

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Well the 1931 Model S Coupe tear down has commenced after I finally finished my wife’s 67 Mustang. (See profile pictures). I will attempt to post a few photos and lessons I learned for folks to reference at least what it took to tear down/restore for their projects ect. I will also say I do not get on the internet outside of checking my emails and looking at more stuff to acquire on craigslist (I have a problem) all that much and apologize in advance if I don’t reply in a timely manner or not at all!! Lastly I hope my restoration is ok with all you preservation folks out there. It will not be perfect but it will get the history back out on the road. As for everyone, money is a issue. I am going to try to be as conservative as possible by using as many of the weathered parts and only fabricating or buying when necessary.My end state is that it is as near as original as I can make it.

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Edited by lynch_man (see edit history)
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Instead of using hex head bolts, when I installed the doors back on my 1929 Hupp A model after painting, I used slotted machine screws, !/4 -20 thread. They laid flat in the hinge like the wood screws did. They also looked like the wood screw does Just thought if you wanted it to look more like the original, there is an option.

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  • 2 weeks later...

After I removed all the stuff inside I figured the metal needed to be cleaned up. With a wire wheel, wire brush, few hours and a quart of POR 15 the inside is real nice. I also started to pull the engine apart for inspection. I don’t like how the intake and cylinder coolant inspection plate bolts screw into the block and are exposed to the cylinder coolant passages. I had a lot of rust and bolts that I needed to re tap. I can understand how the rear cylinders might be prone to overheating because of the design. I will clean this out real nice. Next its off to sand blast the frame to get it ready to paint.

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Edited by lynch_man (see edit history)
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The only real wood damage was on the rear brace between the sides. I pulled the old stuff out cut and fit new wood. Also I built a small bracket and screwed and bolted it in and now it is way stronger than it was in 31. This will be painted and covered and will not be seen with the rumble seat installed

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  • 2 weeks later...

Frame is completely sandblasted. I would recommend ensuring you strip it as far as possible to accommodate the blasting. I did it in my yard with a large tarp underneath to collect the sand. Went through about 70lbs of silica sand I got from the local lumber store for about 15 bucks. Next was the POR 15. I like this stuff. It works well for a complete seal from rust.When this stuff goes on it don’t come off so think about if you wanted it painted with something like a self etching primer or period correct color. SinceI don’t plan on ever selling or restoring this car again POR 15 will do for me.I did the fuel tank as well. This was an aftermarket tank that was installed sometimein the 70’s. It is clean and I will use it again.<o:p></o:p>

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Edited by lynch_man
spacing issue again (see edit history)
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I also decided I will use the existing tuck and roll interior that came with the car with my purchase. This is the real deal leather that was installed years ago but is top quality. Plus, it cleans up real nice. Both the front seat and rumble seat are in great condition. Someday I might consider period correct stuff but for now this will work because you might as well tack on a extra thousand or two for it to be redone.

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These are the interior door panels. The one on the left has beed cleaned with saddle soap re-conditioned.

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Nice weather! Reminds me of a few months ago...

What thickness are the body panels on your rig? I measured mine at 0.060" with a caliper which seems really thick, about 16 gauge. I'm going to try again with a micrometer and see if it changes.

Cheers, Steve

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Yes I took the packs apart. Good call on the sand because there was a fair amount hidden all over. I did not disassemble the hubs and brakes yet. This will have to wait for a while. The engine is my priority now.

Just curious....did you disassemble the springs before/after blasting or before painting? You could have major trouble with the sand between the springs.
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  • 4 weeks later...

Well the engine is just to be taken to get cleaned. I decided I am going to find a inline oil filter(I don't have a original one) and use detergent oil. It ran good before I took it out so no rebuild, maybe bearings, couple of valves needed to be ground/valve seats ect. On this motor there was a lot of bolts that snapped off during the disassembly. Pretty much the ones that were exposed to the cooling jacket ports. I finished tapping the broken ones. Attached are some random picture for reference.

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Edited by lynch_man (see edit history)
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  • 3 years later...
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