lynch_man Posted November 4, 2014 Share Posted November 4, 2014 (edited) Well the 1931 Model S Coupe tear down has commenced after I finally finished my wife’s 67 Mustang. (See profile pictures). I will attempt to post a few photos and lessons I learned for folks to reference at least what it took to tear down/restore for their projects ect. I will also say I do not get on the internet outside of checking my emails and looking at more stuff to acquire on craigslist (I have a problem) all that much and apologize in advance if I don’t reply in a timely manner or not at all!! Lastly I hope my restoration is ok with all you preservation folks out there. It will not be perfect but it will get the history back out on the road. As for everyone, money is a issue. I am going to try to be as conservative as possible by using as many of the weathered parts and only fabricating or buying when necessary.My end state is that it is as near as original as I can make it. Edited November 4, 2014 by lynch_man (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lynch_man Posted November 4, 2014 Author Share Posted November 4, 2014 (edited) First thing I wanted to do was fix those sagging doors! I found there were 1 inch screws holding them into the 80 yr old wood! Most of them were still holding strong! I went ahead and bolted them to the hinge and through the wood on the top and bottom. Problem fixed. Edited November 4, 2014 by lynch_man (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
huptoy Posted November 5, 2014 Share Posted November 5, 2014 If you want it, I have the formula for the green paint for your engine.In the restoration forum, several years ago a man documented his restoration of his 1929 Hupmobile.Check out efforts under "1929 Hupmobile" in the restoration forum.Use the following link to get there.http://forums.aaca.org/f190/1929-hupmobile-project-246532.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hupp36 Posted November 5, 2014 Share Posted November 5, 2014 Instead of using hex head bolts, when I installed the doors back on my 1929 Hupp A model after painting, I used slotted machine screws, !/4 -20 thread. They laid flat in the hinge like the wood screws did. They also looked like the wood screw does Just thought if you wanted it to look more like the original, there is an option. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lynch_man Posted November 5, 2014 Author Share Posted November 5, 2014 JSD, Yep ole Dean H. I followed his posts and was truly impressed like all of us. He has some machine skills! I dont have any of that but will do the best I can. I use his posts as reference. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lynch_man Posted November 5, 2014 Author Share Posted November 5, 2014 Good idea on the hex bolts. I just grinded a little bevel in the hex bolts and it will work for me! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lynch_man Posted November 5, 2014 Author Share Posted November 5, 2014 I love the look of a 3 window! Lots of rusted bolts underneath. I figure the steel is not like the stuff we’re used to now days.Some twisted off and I just grinded off the bad ones. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lynch_man Posted November 14, 2014 Author Share Posted November 14, 2014 (edited) After I removed all the stuff inside I figured the metal needed to be cleaned up. With a wire wheel, wire brush, few hours and a quart of POR 15 the inside is real nice. I also started to pull the engine apart for inspection. I don’t like how the intake and cylinder coolant inspection plate bolts screw into the block and are exposed to the cylinder coolant passages. I had a lot of rust and bolts that I needed to re tap. I can understand how the rear cylinders might be prone to overheating because of the design. I will clean this out real nice. Next its off to sand blast the frame to get it ready to paint. Edited November 15, 2014 by lynch_man (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lynch_man Posted November 15, 2014 Author Share Posted November 15, 2014 The only real wood damage was on the rear brace between the sides. I pulled the old stuff out cut and fit new wood. Also I built a small bracket and screwed and bolted it in and now it is way stronger than it was in 31. This will be painted and covered and will not be seen with the rumble seat installed Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lynch_man Posted November 28, 2014 Author Share Posted November 28, 2014 (edited) Frame is completely sandblasted. I would recommend ensuring you strip it as far as possible to accommodate the blasting. I did it in my yard with a large tarp underneath to collect the sand. Went through about 70lbs of silica sand I got from the local lumber store for about 15 bucks. Next was the POR 15. I like this stuff. It works well for a complete seal from rust.When this stuff goes on it don’t come off so think about if you wanted it painted with something like a self etching primer or period correct color. SinceI don’t plan on ever selling or restoring this car again POR 15 will do for me.I did the fuel tank as well. This was an aftermarket tank that was installed sometimein the 70’s. It is clean and I will use it again.<o:p></o:p> Edited November 28, 2014 by lynch_man spacing issue again (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lynch_man Posted November 28, 2014 Author Share Posted November 28, 2014 I also decided I will use the existing tuck and roll interior that came with the car with my purchase. This is the real deal leather that was installed years ago but is top quality. Plus, it cleans up real nice. Both the front seat and rumble seat are in great condition. Someday I might consider period correct stuff but for now this will work because you might as well tack on a extra thousand or two for it to be redone.These are the interior door panels. The one on the left has beed cleaned with saddle soap re-conditioned. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JFranklin Posted November 29, 2014 Share Posted November 29, 2014 You could use stainless bolts into the waterjacket cover and be done with rust. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keiser31 Posted November 30, 2014 Share Posted November 30, 2014 Just curious....did you disassemble the springs before/after blasting or before painting? You could have major trouble with the sand between the springs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stevemo Posted November 30, 2014 Share Posted November 30, 2014 Nice weather! Reminds me of a few months ago...What thickness are the body panels on your rig? I measured mine at 0.060" with a caliper which seems really thick, about 16 gauge. I'm going to try again with a micrometer and see if it changes.Cheers, Steve Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lynch_man Posted December 7, 2014 Author Share Posted December 7, 2014 Yes I took the packs apart. Good call on the sand because there was a fair amount hidden all over. I did not disassemble the hubs and brakes yet. This will have to wait for a while. The engine is my priority now.Just curious....did you disassemble the springs before/after blasting or before painting? You could have major trouble with the sand between the springs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lynch_man Posted December 29, 2014 Author Share Posted December 29, 2014 (edited) Well the engine is just to be taken to get cleaned. I decided I am going to find a inline oil filter(I don't have a original one) and use detergent oil. It ran good before I took it out so no rebuild, maybe bearings, couple of valves needed to be ground/valve seats ect. On this motor there was a lot of bolts that snapped off during the disassembly. Pretty much the ones that were exposed to the cooling jacket ports. I finished tapping the broken ones. Attached are some random picture for reference. Edited December 29, 2014 by lynch_man (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thomas Pruett Posted September 24, 2018 Share Posted September 24, 2018 Hello, I just found your pictures. I too own a 1931 Hupmobile Coupe, just like yours and really want to make contact to see what you did about windshield gaskets Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
C Carl Posted February 10, 2020 Share Posted February 10, 2020 And here we have Lynch_man. It's been 5 years now. Anyone know how he is getting on ? - Carl Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now