1963 Thunderbird eating ignition condesers

Like the title says, the car has had three ignition condensers fail this summer. The car starts running rough and then konks out. Slap a new condenser in the distributor and it fires right up and is good for a few more weeks. Running voltage to the coil is 6 volts, 12 volts with key on and the engine off and 12 when cranking. What is causing this? or do I have the magical ability to only get poor quality condensers? I am buying the parts at NAPA, not at Ed's cut-rate poor quality used parts store.

Bill

Just on general principles, not being familiar with Thunderbirds, I'd suspect a bad ground, either at the condenser mounting itself or if it's mounted to the moveable distributor plate, a missing or bad ground strap from the moveable plate to the distributor frame. Are the points also burning - I'd guess so.

My Pertronix units haven't had a bad condenser yet...................Bob

I will check for a ground issue. The points are not burnt, but the condenser life is frustrating.

Pertronix is a thought, but I first need to figure out what is killing the condenser, condensers are way cheaper than ign modules.

Nothing to a Pertronix unit except one wire to hot and one to coil. There nothing in common with points/condenser except the coil and I don't see how that could be the problem, but who knows........Bob

With your key in the run position and engine is off the ballast resistor is in circuit so I would think you would only have about 6 volts to the coil. You do have a ballast resistor, yes? The only time the coil sees 12 volts is when the key is in the start position.

You could have got a run of bad condensers. Parts quality isn't what it used to be.

You could have got a run of bad condensers. Parts quality isn't what it used to be.

I'll second that! Try a different brand.

The coil supply voltage was tested with engine running and showed about 6v. key on engine off it goes to 12v . No "ballast resistor" as Ford uses resistor wire to supply the coil and a second lead from starter solenoid to supply 12v during cranking.

This car has eaten 3-4 condensers this summer but I understand quality is a big issue.

Just asking...Could by chance, someone have replaced the resistance wire with a non-resistance wire? I've seen it before. I understand the comments about quality control, but could your luck be that bad? If your points are not burning and not pitting on either side then the capacitance value is in the correct ballpark. Being an electrolytic capacitor the only other thing, be on the quality control thing, is over voltage.

Beltfed:

The wire has the correct color code and the right "feel" to it. (I grew up with 1960's Fords) Also a resister (to my knowledge) does not lower the voltage unless there is a current flow through the resistor.

I am about to cut the condenser open and look for arcing on it.

Thank you for your ideas I will figure this out someday.....

Well, you are both right and wrong. But, the answer you seek is neither. I am going to reach out to a very experienced mechanic who has solved many electrical questions for me in the past. Later

Like the title says, the car has had three ignition condensers fail this summer. The car starts running rough and then konks out. Slap a new condenser in the distributor and it fires right up and is good for a few more weeks. Running voltage to the coil is 6 volts, 12 volts with key on and the engine off and 12 when cranking. What is causing this? or do I have the magical ability to only get poor quality condensers? I am buying the parts at NAPA, not at Ed's cut-rate poor quality used parts store.

Bill[/i had a red flag pop up when I red that the running voltage is only 6 volts. That running voltage should be approximately 9.6 volts (check correct spec in your shop manual). I suspect that your new condensers were running on the "hairy edge" when new and fell off after a few miles. Try a little higher running voltage.

I got a reply back from the mechanic. He said if the condenser is shorting out and killing engine, he would agree with several others that you are getting bad parts. On the other hand, if it is opening youwill be getting burning of the points, which you stated you are not.

He suggested trying to find a NOS Motorcraft condenser and try that. He also said it doesn't have to be necessarily dedicated to your specific engine.

Thanks for the tips and hints. The vote here is to just go with a pertronix and correct any feed voltage issues!

Bill

Or buy a condenser from your local Ford dealer and get OEM quality. Cheaper than Pertronix I hope, although some dealers take their prices from the Gouger's Handbook.

I cut open one of the "quality" condensers (Echlin from Napa) and it was a quality issue. I could see on both ends where it had been arcing to the case. I put a Pertronix unit in the car and it is happy again.

Bill

Take your defective parts back to Napa and let then know what you've found, and maybe get your money back. Good stuff to know. Thanks for the post!

One of my cars has same points and condenser set I put in back in 1973. Why would I ever want to convert it to something else? If you have good parts- GOOD GROUNDS and proper voltage, you are good to go. Yes, I USED to drive the car nearly every day, but now only special events. POINT IS: everything needs to be in proper condition and NOT inferior parts.

I am thinking if you ever have ignition problems out on the road you would be wise to be carrying your old parts.