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Varnish Test


Tom Boehm

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Hello Woodie Club, Here is a link to something I ran across. It is a durability test some guy did of various brands of varnish. http://www.myccr.com/phpbbforum/viewtopic.php?f=49&t=40923 One of the brands he tested was Coronado Marine Spar. This product is now sold under the name Lenmar Spar Varnish available at Benjamin Moore stores. It is the identical formula. Coronado and Lenmar are owned by Benjamin Moore.

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Our Woodies don't necessarily have to deal with the treachery of long hours, days, weeks or months of horrible exposure that these tests imply.

Therefore, I don't think they are of much help in deciding what to coat our woodies with.

Also, there is much spoken about canoes & boats picking up dirt from use in the water.

OK, our Woodies have to deal with dirt, as does everything, but not washed in by fast running water.

Unless driving hard in a heavy downpour!!

But, still good info!! Thanks, Mike

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Tom thank's for your input but I agree with Mike, I drove myself crazy when it came down to start the varnish process on my wagon. I purchased several books that did nothing but further complicated the issue. As with anything there are always going to be conflicting suggestions. One book I read said the only way to get a "perfect" varnish finish was to use specialized "varnish Brushes" that cost about $100 bucks each. I stopped reading all the books and listened to a guy that restores furniture and he gave me several suggestions. He told me to use foam brushes that cost $.99 and my varnish job came out great. He gave me several other suggestions that I will give if anyone is interested.

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Some of the other suggestions were, never buy varnish in a larger amount than a quart. He said by time you got halfway thru the gallon the varnish will turn onto a gel. When you are ready to use the varnish spoon it out of the quart can thru a paint strainer,into a clean cup. never dip the brush into the qt., also never shake the can, only stir it. Shaking will cause air bubbles. When you store the qt. can, turn it upside down to seal it off completely from the air. Air is the enemy of varnish. Always do your sanding away from the area you are going to do the varnishing. Blow your piece to be varnished off and then go over it with a tack cloth. You will be surprised how much you will get off your piece after you have blown it off with compressed air. Construct a "clean room", I used plastic sheeting stapled to my basement ceiling and walls. When you enter the clean room blow yourself off outside first. Have a small electric heater in the clean room and have a thermometer to let you know the temperature. Varnish loves 72 degrees. Once you have applied your final coat resist the temptation to touch up your work, you will only do more damage. After you are done, shut the heater and leave your clean room and don't enter till the next day. I know a lot of this is common sense, but every tip helps.

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Hello Mike and '46 woodie, You are absolutely right. I know our cars will be pampered and never subject to the conditions in those tests. This is my first woodie restoration and after all the work I'm putting into building the body I can't help myself but want to put the best varnish on it. I am a painter by trade (as in brushes and rollers) and I already do some of the varnishing suggestions. The clean room is a good idea because my shop is dusty. Thanks for your responses. Tom

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I have seen several Woodies that were finished using automotive clear coat. Most of these were on "hot rod" Woodies. I personally don't like clear coat on Woodies, to me it looks too "plastic". I like varnish when it comes down to Woodies because it just seems to add a rich, warm texture to the wood. Modern varnish is greatly improved over the product that Ford sprayed on their Woodies. The biggest factor is the addition of UV inhibitors. Tom, if your shop is dusty I would do every thing I could to improve that situation, dust is a killer of any varnish job.

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Hello restorer '32, I have not researched automotive clear coats because I decided to use varnish because of authenticity and ease of application. I perceive automotive clear coat to be more durable but I am comfortable with varnish because my car is not going to be stored outside. I think it comes down to personal taste as to the appearance. I tend toward being a purist in restoration but I do not think automotive clear coat on a woodie is wrong or inappropriate. There are more opinions and information in the thread I started in this forum titled "varnish question".

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Hello restorer '32, I used automotive clear coat on a pair of Woodies I worked on, only because the owners insisted.

The first was a '46 Ford, with original wood collected from several Woodies.

It wasn't tinted, just clear, since the wood was already "tinted" from age.

After two coats, it transformed the old wood into a plastic looking piece.

I much prefer varnish for the look.

The second one was a '48 Mercury, and the product used was supplied by the owner.

It was called "Full-thane", apparently a product used on wooden floors, apparently very scuff resistant.

Similar look, but again old wood and no tinting.

I have heard that these clear coats give the wood the kiss of death, since they cannot be stripped, later down the line.

Whereas the varnish can be stripped off.

I have nothing to back up that statement, so please take it for what its worth.

Although, you could always try stripping one of your samples mentioned earlier.

All I am saying is that unless it lasts indefinitely, at some point it will need refinishing.

What does that take?

Perhaps another block sanding and a respray?

What do you think? Mike

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  • 10 months later...

OK, I'll jump in.

 

Automotive clearcoat is just that, it's clear. What it shows you, like it or not, is the real color of the wood. Varnish tints the wood, some like it, some don't. To each their own.

 

Preference aside, varnish has one advantage, that it can be brushed, rolled, or sprayed. Clear must be sprayed.

 

Clear can be built up much faster than varnish, even several coats at a time, and still can be sanded the next day producing a dry dust. Clear cures, which is a relatively quick process, after which it is very stable. Varnish dries, and with multiple coats it can take a very long time for all the solvents to evaporate out, with the varnish shrinking through the whole drying process.

 

The "plastic" look (in my opinion) is a result of sanding and buffing, and you will get the same look from buffed varnish. unbuffed clear will have just as good a gloss as unbuffed varnish. I have used both, buffed and not.

 

Clearcoat is much more durable than varnish, and may be harder on the stripping equipment, but it certainly can be stripped. It is a surface finish, just like varnish, doesn't soak in any farther than varnish, and can be removed, just like varnish.

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