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55 Buick Horn wiring problem


Brianbuick

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The "OD" remains the same? would have thought the ID would but the OD may change based on thickness? No matter, probably, since the switch button is spring loaded and would adjust to the tolerance of the varying thicknesses to a point. What type of adhesive to use in securing on the rubber bushing? I have a friend who wants me to help and pull one to replace the ring so will report back when we ever get to it.

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Pay a little more and save yourself some grief: http://www.homedepot.com/p/NIBCO-1-in-x-3-4-in-Copper-Pressure-FTG-x-C-Fitting-Reducer-C600-2/100342545

Cut the small end off this 1x3/4 copper coupling; or if doubting take the rubber bushing to the store for a test fit.

No need for glue since the assembly is very tight.

Willie

The advantage of using this system is that you are cutting off the small side, which means there is a natural lip. That lip prevents the piece from sliding down past the rubber. Pics to come soon...

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Buy this and cut where I am pointing with the screwdriver, leaving the 1" section with the reducer left:

C64E9C1A-0EC9-4EB5-BB47-E274F88E24B2_zpsoewvgczn.jpg

Then solder the bottom of the wire to a groove you cut in the coupler. The reason you do this first is that the fitting is thick and needs a lot of heat to melt solder. I also use a three inch piece of small shrink wrap at the bottom of the wire to further protect it where it goes through the slot. Then feed the wire back up the tube and solder the top.

This is just how I do it, you can try it any other way you want. If you have an easier way, please share.

Looks like this after soldering and back on the rubber insulator:

56ECC2A5-D511-4D02-B213-5AE8EAC7DCF8_zps4f8fdt3n.jpg

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Pay a little more and save yourself some grief: http://www.homedepot.com/p/NIBCO-1-in-x-3-4-in-Copper-Pressure-FTG-x-C-Fitting-Reducer-C600-2/100342545

Cut the small end off this 1x3/4 copper coupling; or if doubting take the rubber bushing to the store for a test fit.

No need for glue since the assembly is very tight.

Willie

Fourth vote. Been working for almost 10 years with the above fix or long enough that I can't remember when I fixed it, although theres a post around here somewhere. Used some rubber cement to hold the isolator to the shaft. Gotta check in more often. This is a fun one.

Edited by KAD36 (see edit history)
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So this reminds me of a story - in the early 70s I was sitting in my Buick as a kid during a visit to my grandparents. Pap kept it in the shed, up in the air on blocks to preserve it (long story). I remember my dad pulling up with his 70 Cutlass (that was a cool car), we jump started the Buick as we did every visit, got it warmed up, and I proceeded to whip the steering wheel left and right (just because it was mindlessly fun) and suddenly, the horn started blowing. And blowing, and blowing. And anyone who had a 55 Buick back then in a shed in an alley in an old Pennsylvania coal town heard that car horn blow for blocks and they knew just where it was coming from because it was WAY LOUD. And the heads stuck out of kitchen windows and doors opened and there was the Buick ceremoniously honking away in all her glory full of dust in paps shed. My dad frantically yanked the wires at the relay to shut it off, but back then when wires were properly attached they did not yank off, rather they stayed put. As they should. Frustrated, they searched for a screwdriver and minutes seemed like hours while they yelled at each other and waved their hands in a language fit for the moment. Seems they argued about why they couldn't turn it off, while I decided it was vital to ensure the windshield wipers still worked, which they did, smartly wiping the dust from the windshield so a better view of the ruckus could be had.

When I took the car to college, I had one of those slap switches under the dash. What a pain. 30 years later, I finally took it apart, found the sleeve ripped and bushing loose. Took the bushing to a hardware store just as discussed here and matched up a fitting nicely. What I could never figure out was that brass sleeve was so darn thin and it just seemed to tear - made no sense.

One things for sure - the copper fitting WILL last! I'm in this one for the beer, buds and stories :D

Edited by KAD36 (see edit history)
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Pictures of the top of column. I use a double pigtail from big auto parts store. This has the proper diameter pin, a top you can solder and a small spring. I stick it in an old bondo spreader. Cut the diameter for the steering shaft. Leave a little wire up top. Build up a solder "bubble". Twirl the wire so it goes into the shaft. (I used more heat shrink wrap here)

Make sure the spring works.

Reassemble and have a nice day.

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A997A12D-2879-47A3-94BF-1680741328C8_zps5eseexxt.jpg

1CA83587-8DC4-4F71-AED6-7FE99FE59E4D_zps8lxdpksm.jpg

5BF16538-A49C-4A4C-A5D6-AD133ECAEF84_zpsqql8c13k.jpg

50040F1E-1E1C-4E3C-A8FE-32CEB9EF4971_zps6sbdic8t.jpg

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Excellent tutorial my friend! Like the fact that you MacGyver'd it from available parts, including wire, springs, bondo spreader and solder...almost like a whole episode in 4 pictures...In the end, does the steering column blow up or something?? :cool:

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But what of the OP's situation? I'm getting thirsty...................Bob

Me too, Bob.

Maybe I spent too much time taking pictures and jabbering to myself.

I'm just going to further hijack this thread and start spouting my views on the world. Isn't that what the interwebz were invented for?

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I'm finally back. Sorry to leave you talking to yourselves. I had some break issues come up. I owe an update to all of you who have been contributing.

To recap and fill in some blanks let me start by saying that back when the horn went to continuous on mode what I did was to disconnect the tan wire from the horn relay. That took care of the immediate problem. The only problem was no horn which is a little scary in view on the high number of idiots on the road. I also pried off the horn button to see what I could see. This car has a button versus the ring in the manual. I do have a manual by the way, an original and well worn one from back before CD rom's and the like.

the fact that the horn does not sound with the tan wire detached unfortunately rules out the stuck relay diagnosis. Too bad. That would have been simple.

Today I removed the small curved rectangular plate low on the steering column thru which the tan wire runs. The back side is a brass stud for lack of a better word that looks a little worn and ragged. It apparently is in continuous contact with the brass sleeve. I examined the sleeve as best I could and felt it as I turned the wheel. It seemed smooth free of cracks or breaks.

I next pushed down on the spring loaded switch under the steering wheel cap to make sure that it was not stuck in the depressed or down position. It was not. Then I grounded the brass stud to the steering column ans, as expected, the horn sounded.

I removed the steering wheel hold down bolt to better look at the switch and the white wire attached to it. All seems to be in order.

At this point I remain puzzled in part because I can't exactly picture what the inside of the steering column looks like. From some of the pictures various of you have been so kind as to share it seems as if the white wire ends up soldered to the brass sleeve, although in the picture the wire has become black. Short of removing the steering column I can't see exactly what is there.

i have taken some pictures but haven't figured out how to attach them to this thread. Perhaps one of you could shed some light. I have the pictures on my iPad which is where I am now.

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OK, Try unplugging the wire from the connector at the plate on the lower column, touch the end of the wire to the brass sleeve to see if the horn still blows. You may have to fashion an extension to the wire terminal to accomplish this. If the horn still blows, the problem is in the column or horn button switch. If the horn does not blow, re-attach the lower plate with the spring loaded button and then plug in the wire, if the horn blows, then the spring button is grounded to the plate. I believe that the spring loaded brush pin must be isolated from the plate.

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From what Brian said earlier he has a plain Jane Special with a standard steering wheel since he mentions a horn "button". That wheel would have no ring just a "horn button" in the center of the wheel. At least that's what the SM (page 374) and his "button" description leads me to believe. If he has the Deluxe wheel then he gets the ring with it. If he does have a ring you're right the rubber bumpers would be a good place to inspect.............Bob

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From what Brian said earlier he has a plain Jane Special with a standard steering wheel since he mentions a horn "button". That wheel would have no ring just a "horn button" in the center of the wheel. At least that's what the SM (page 374) and his "button" description leads me to believe. If he has the Deluxe wheel then he gets the ring with it. If he does have a ring you're right the rubber bumpers would be a good place to inspect.............Bob

Excellent point sir.

I have only seen one button version in person and totally forgot about that.

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You have to find a decent steering wheel, first. Or have one recast for $800.

The last really good wheel I found was $250, plus a good useable ring-$125 and a good button $100.

And that is if you can actually win an eBay auction.

I'd love to see your car.

My whole theory about this thread is shot. :D

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As an aside. When I did my 57 I needed to restore the steering wheel. I did a beautiful job, it was like new. When I went to install it I realized I had restored an extra 55 wheel I had laying around. I figured, oh well, I'd just put it on EBay, which I did with an opening bid of $10 no reserve. Only one guy bid. A deal is a deal. I packed it up and sent it to the guy for $10. Oy Vey..............Bob

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As further aside. The OP has a plain Jane Special. Stick shift, 2 door sedan, bare bones. IMHO that is a treasure. I would NOT do a thing to "upgrade" that car. You can't swing a cat without hitting a Century or Roadmaster. Bare bones entry level Special not so much.................Bob

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As further aside. The OP has a plain Jane Special. Stick shift, 2 door sedan, bare bones. IMHO that is a treasure. I would NOT do a thing to "upgrade" that car. You can't swing a cat without hitting a Century or Roadmaster. Bare bones entry level Special not so much.................Bob

Now I feel all special. My parents bought this car new in 1955. No power anything, radio or clock. It had the hub caps. When I got it from my mother in 1977 I began a multi year restoration process th at included a radio and clock, both of which just occupy space at this point, a day/night mirror and wheel covers, all from a classic car yard that operated in Indianapolis back then. Porta walls were the finishing touch. After your comment I think I'll just leave the steering wheel as is. It would be nice to know if there is any trick to polishing it up to get rid of what appears to be some kind of occidation.

Its first road trip was to Flint in 1978 I think it was. Was anybody there? As I said earlier in the thread I am aiming for Springfield MO in June. That's about as close to Tulsa as it will probably ever be.

I think I'm getting the drift of this mindless rambling.

Brian

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Your car DEMANDS hub caps not wheel covers. Porta walls are tacky but fit the era perfectly. Sell the radio and clock on EBay. Remove the steering wheel, fill any cracks with epoxy, lightly sand and paint with enamel. Oh, one other thing. While the wheel is off fix your f**king horn problem so I can claim my beer...............Bob

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