Engine Cradle Bolt Problem

I ordered some new engine cradle mounts and was planning on doing them over winter but while looking at the trans leak I started messing with the one that was rusted badly. The bolt was rusted and it snapped off. This is the inner rear mount right side. I have removed the outer rear with no issues and the front bolt no problem. Here is what I have left, a bit of the bolt, the nut in the top is sandwiched between two pieces of sheet metal. I am thinking of cutting the metal and fold it down so I can cut a slot to get this nut washer combo out. You can see the two spot welds that hold the upper inner plate that holds the nut. What to you all think about cutting in this spot? Any other suggestions welcome and needed. Thanks in Advance !!!

Hmmm. Not good. I advise against cutting the metal channel away for access as this will weaken the structural rail even if you weld it back into place when done. Nasty as it may be to do so, I would try to drill or grind the bolt out from beneath and then run a tap through the cage nut to remove the remnants.

Also have to be careful not to break this cage nut free. It is tack welded in place and with enough leverage can be broken away which is the worst possible scenario.

EDIT: I would hit it with lots of penetrating oil first and maybe some heat (torch) then try driving it in slightly further with a vise grips to see if it will break loose from the cage nut. If it does, you may still be able to back it out with the vise grips on the remaining stub as opposed to drilling the bolt out. These are high hardness (grade 8 I think) bolts and will be very difficult to drill out.

If you have a small grinder that can remove the portion protruding from the top side of the cage nut this would be even easier as you can get rid of the rusty point of the bolt and not have to back it out through the cage nut threads. A 1/2" or bigger drive impact wrench is a big help on this kind of job, but I realize not many people have access to that in a home garage.

KDirk

The nut is somewhat loose but still does not spin free when turned. Drilling this out would be a real pain considering how hard it was to cut it to this point. I and also thinking on making a rod that can push up from the bottom to see it if can push the nut washer combo out. I would then use new nuts and washers in this place. The area I marked does not look very structural. Looks like just and end cap welded around the sides. Will keep you all posted on the outcome. More suggestions are welcome.

My guess is the bolt may have been replaced before..... seems like others indicated there was a threaded metal plate on the top.

If you can drive it up from the bottom that would be the simplest solution.

I wouldn't hesitate to cut where you have marked as long as you make a nice cut and do a nice weld when you are done it will be just fine. If your worried about weakening it just add another plate across it and plug weld it over top but with a good weld you'll be just fine

Dash,

Here's a link to some photos taken when I replaced mine.

I'm with Kevin on using a torch to heat the cage nut to aid in removing the bolt. I would recommend this method as the preferred way.

Heard too many stories of broken bolts. To not recommend it would be a crime. You don't need a full blown ox-acetylene set. A Mapp gas set will do just fine.

A quality set of vice grips placed on what is left of the bolt and less than a minute of heat on the nut and it should break free. Don't heat the whole nut and bolt. You want to just heat one section of the nut to make it expand to loosen it's grip on the bolt. If you heat the whole thing then all the metal (both nut and bolt) expands and you are defeating the whole purpose of using the torch. Somewhere on the forum I posted how this use of heat works but am too tired to hunt for it now. Maybe tomorrow. The pics from the link above pretty much show how to do it although they are not in order of how to proceed.

Just be sure to play it safe and have a fire extinguisher handy. Wouldn't hurt to have a person standby ready to pull the pin on it as well.

If this method doesn't work for you, you still can try the alternatives stated above.

John F.

PS,

I'm not recommending that anyone cut a hole as large as the one shown in the pics. If I were to do this again, I would cut a hole no larger than that which would be needed to get the head of the torch in to get heat to the nut. Probably no more than an inch in Dia.

Do you have an air hammer?

I have a philosophy that the least destructive solution should always be atttempted first. The only thing one has to lose in doing so is time (if it doesn't work). Once it can be shown that the easier/less invasive way won't work, other more complicated (and possibly damaging) methods can be employed as a last resort.

I guess this is a fancier way of expressing the KISS method (keep it simple stupid).

KDirk

Do you have an air hammer?

Many times this is the quickest method , air hammer the tack welds around the nut . pull the broken bolt out on a angle threw the top - with cradle lower a bit . The new parts from GM are individual as the washers , the rubbers (top and bottom ), the shims (sometimes or is part of the washer), the bolt and the nut . Up here in Michigan you found a good car if your having your problem . Most of the time the cradle rots out or rips from the floor . Good luck and remeber they didn't plan on having a problem when they built it .

I do Have an air hammer and other air tools but my air compressor is at my son's right now since we are working on and engine swap. I have an electric die grinder and going to try to grind two flat sides on the bolt to fit wrench on and use freeze spray on the bolt to see it I can get it to break free. I do have small handheld torch. I will not cut the area except as last resort. I do not have any welding equipment and I have never done any welding. Thank you all for your suggestions. Now I am going to need some bolts anyone have good source for them?

PB blaster and time repeat everyday for a week. That is how I got mine off.

Bolts can be had thru GMPartsDirect for under three bux (plus S&H)each.

Bolt #11517635---- $2.29

John F.

Just finished the Saturn Engine work and now have my compressor back. Since I can't work on it again till the weekend going to hit it with PB Blaster each night, then will try to create flat spots in the remaining bolt shaft so I can use a wench on it to break free. Machiner 55, Thanks for the bolt information.

What did we ever determine for the washer and insulator?

I am using the Dorman 924-005 to replace all mounts in all positions and only re-using good bolts. Just as a reference note all the mounts in my 88 have the 10mm bolt in mounts from the factory. Not sure about any Factory replacement parts for the washer and insulator. I will be posting pictures of the install of the Dorman Parts once I get the remainder of the bolt out of this one mount. I got most of my info about engine cradle mounts from an older thread from searching the forum using engine cradle as the search term.

Will you have to modify them to get them to fit? Everything I can find says they won't fit. If you modify them and get them to work please take photos so I can make a tutorial for reattaowner.com on what you had to do to install them.

Like Daniel had posted in the older engine cradle bushing thread. I have test fitted the Dorman in the right side outside rear mount so far and they are D shaped and fit in nice and snug. I will take a picture of the Dorman part before install so you all can see the parts before I start installing them. I have not looked at the left side of the car yet so I hope it will go better. I will document everything I can and take lots of pictures. I have been taking picture in low resolution 640x480 size for posting here, I can go higher if you want larger photos.

I hope they do work without modification. A lot of people in the northern states have this problem... or will have. Higher resolution photos would be better. I can resize them if needed. Thanks!

Dave,

Insulator: PN #162359---$31.51 ea.

Bolt: PN #11517635------$2.29 ea.

The Insulator and Bolt are currently still available from GM Parts Direct

Cover Spacer (washer): PN #1626368 ...... Generally speaking, these are unavailable anywhere, at any price.

These parts are found on the '88, '89 and '90 Reattas. Don't know about the '91's.

I'd better say that these parts are (were) found on the model years that I've owned.

John F.

I tried to cut some angles into what was left of the bolt, could not get good enough grip to break it free. Then I tried to see if I could push it up out of the cover metal retainer, this did not do much. Then tried to see it I could pry the metal retainer and this worked some. So in the the end I had to cut the metal retainer using several tools ( cutting disks, grinder bits, air saw) to get nut assembly loose to try and remove it out thru the hole. Once loose I could turn it to get the corners to extend out of the hole so I could cut them making the plate small enough to come out. Here is whats left of the nut/plate. The plate is 1/4 inch steel and shaped to fit the mount and was likely placed into the mount before mount being welded to the body. I did not cut the mount at all. Now have to get or make a new plate and get washer for the new nut I will have to use with new bolt. Here are some more picture of all of the mounts ( right side ), whats left, and the nut/plate. It took about 15 hours to get the nut and plate out. I will so confirm the the Dorman 924-005 Kits do fit in all locations on right side, I will start a new post on that subject tomorrow. Right side done, now for left, Hope I don't break off another bolt, but my inner rear mount shown in the mounts picture is in the middle. Mounts are in this order in the picture, outer rear, inner rear, front.

Des anyone know the size and pitch of these bolts? I need to re-tap the nut.

Thanks!

Please review this there is some information on bolts. This is my write up

https://www.reattaowner.com/roj/component/content/article/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&catid=77:suspension&id=328:engine-cradle-sub-frame-bushing-replacement

M12x1.75x100mm hex head flange bolt maybe ?

Dashmaster & Padgett,

Thank you for the info! I am working on them but it is a slow process!