Brake lights not working

First, I am a new 1989 Reatta owner. Thanks to this forum, Reatta Data Page and the Reatta Owner's Journal, I became hooked to getting one. I decided to purchase the nicest example I could find. I ended up with a two owner, 50,000 mile car that looks very nice. The last owner (15,000 miles) only drove the car in the summer to the golf course. He no longer could get in the car comfortably due to a back injury, so it was not driven since April of 2014. The car was always garaged.

One I test drove it all items functioned. I picked it up the next day. On the way home my helper informed me that the brake lights were not functioning. I have searched the 3 web sites mentioned. If I tapped the brake pedal multiple times (machine gun style) sometimes, I could get the brake lights to function, but only very briefly. Based on the data I found, I decided it was probably a ground problem, since they would work, it could not be a fuse. I think it was the ROJ, that suggested cleaning and tightening the four ground terminals under the hood. Mine were tight, but I undid all of them, cleaned them with wire brushes, applied electrical grease and tightened them to make sure. Also, I did the same with the battery terminals. This did not correct the problem.

Can anyone help me with insight as to what to check next? I did call the former owner, and he reported that the car never malfunctioned during his 16 years of ownership. I think he is truthful and this is a combination of 25 years old and sitting since April. I was going to take a look at the brake light switch and see what could be done to test that connection.

Additionally, when I did get the car home the drivers side power window would not go up. I am not sure there is a connection, but I thought I should mention it. Also, sometimes the passenger window will not function. These all worked fine when I test drove the car. When I hit the window switch, if I put my ear next to the door I can typically hear some humming or clicking. This tended to indicate to me that the fuse was okay, but there is some electrical problem, perhaps the switch, motor or connections in the door? Not sure what my next step should be with the windows or if they are related to the brake light problem. I think the factory manual I downloaded might have a test sequence for the windows. But, I have read so much over the past few days, my head is swimming.

Thank you.

Regards:

Tim Reatta

Welcome to the forum.

Does your turn signal lights in the rear work? Does the high brake light on the rear work when you apply the brakes? Let us know.

If the answer to the first question is yes and the answer to the second question is no the brake switch is likely to be the problem.

The turn signals work fine in the rear. The high mounted brake light does not work. Hmmm, so the brake switch? I took a peek and see the Reatta has the under dash fully covered with a panel. That should not be too difficult to remove. I am guessing the switch is mounted higher up. Is there a test I should try before sourcing a replacement switch? Thank you Ronnie!

I would put in a new switch and see if it fixes the problem. Probably would take longer to troubleshoot it than to install the switch. Wouldn't hurt to have new one anyway. They are available in the Reatta store but you can probably find one locally. Here is what you are looking for: Standard Motor Products Stoplight Switch

Thank you. I will give that a try. Any thoughts on the windows? I have found one thread that indicates, the switch may be worn, should be removed and adjusted. I found it very peculiar overall that everything was working on Sunday and when I picked the car up and got it home, these two items were down and out. But, it is a 25 year old car.

You pretty much hit the nail on the head when you said it could be the switch, the motor or a bad connection. I would start by checking out the switch. It's the easiest thing to change. If you have a voltmeter you can check for power going into, and out of, the switch when the button is pushed.

Ronnie:

Thank you. I will start on these projects tomorrow.

agree with Ronnie. but i've had so many dirty connections on my Reatta, i always start with CRC electrical contact cleaner to rule the "easy" problems/fixes out.

When I bought this one the passenger side was slow. I tried holding both buttons up and it ran much faster. I left the Window up and took a guess where the lift mechanicals are and shot a small amount of CRC #2 lube and it began working well. That said the proper thing to do is to remove the door trim panel and clean the gunk out of the mechanism then relube it. Does the Window try to move with either switch? Ig not you may need a new motor. The relubeing is not a bad idea if you have to remove the trim panel.

Start with pulling the door panel so the regulator rails can be lubed. If this doesn't solve the sluggish window you will probably need a new window motor. I just did one on the scrub 88 passenger side a couple of weeks ago and was not as bad a job as I expected. You do need the big Harbor Frieght 1/4" rivet gun or equivalent (don't waste time bolting it in, rivets are what were spec'd by the factory and what should be used) but the rest is pretty straight forward.

KDirk

Thank you to all. Saturday night I found the time to install a brake light switch, bingo, problem solved, thank you Ronnie. I was able to take my first 20 minute relaxed drive in the car knowing the stop lights are working. Today, on to the window problem. I will start with the switch, since my problem is one of it either works or nothing, no sluggishness (I will pick up some CRC cleaner, I have the electrical grease, but no cleaner). But, if not there, I will move on to the door panels. I agree with the statements about, if it is apart, lube it, etc., put it back together as new.

I started doing that on my first old car purchase (1968 MG, MGC GT) based on a magazine article from an owner that always followed that policy. If a headlight went out, don't just replace, lube, paint, replace and fix anything on the headlight bucket. He was an original owner and it saved him the cost of ever having to do a full restoration on his MGC. My Reatta is in good shape, (outside of these electrical gremlins popping up), so I will try to maintain and improve for the future.

Regards:

Tim

The power windows are now fixed. Removing the switch and cleaning with CRC seem to do the trick. But, I did notice some straining on up and down, so as time permits, I think I will follow the other suggestions regarding lubing the windows.

Now, the next problem, after a test drive, the cruise control has stopped working!

I know the brake switch when used, cuts off the cruise control, but it was working just fine with the bad brake light switch? The amber cruise control light does come on. I will search the forum and see what I can find or if nothing there, it might be time to start a new thread.

Not that this will solve anything, but is this typical for Reatta's? At test drive, perfect, now that it is home, electrical gremlins are popping up everywhere. I will say I really enjoyed my test drive last night. This car has great potential. I can't wait for a nice trouble free day time drive with the colorfull fall leaves as a back drop.

Starting a new post is advisable, but this is mostly an easy fix. Check all your vacuum lines. Mine all looked great on the outside but were about ready to crumble. Replaced and all was good for a while, then found it would release going up a grade. Pulled the servo and did a "suck" test on the big tube and it was the problem.

In your case if it is not the tubing or vacuum on the servo there is a tutorial over on Ronnie's site [Reattaownersjournal] click on the repairs bar and then click on "other electrical"

and you will see the tutorial on the srvo testing done by Mc_Reatta. As I have access to a large You Pick yard [Gibson's] I just go out and get another one off a Buick Park Avenue or LeSbare. They are all the same and are pretty cheap...

re: the power windows - before taking the window panels off, "roll" the windows about 1/2 way down and spray the front and rear glass run channels with a penetrant. i used "PB Blaster" when i did it, but others have used WD-40 or similar with good results. pull the door rubber back a bit and use the "straw" to get to other movable parts. should be able to hit some rollers, etc.

if there is no difference, i would then go with what Kevin stated in post #10.

re: "electrical gremlins" - yeah, probably so. but since your Reatta is a low mileage and apparently hasn't been driven much in the last few years, she may only need mainly "cheap, fast and easy" fixes - such as cleaning electrical contacts, new vacuum hoses, normal maintenance (oil, brakes & fluid flush, tranny fluid & filter replacement, etc.)... if you rule out the "easy", then go for checking the parts for replacement.

i say this since i see many folks start to throw (expensive) parts at a problem with negative results in solving the problem.

good luck and post some pics of your Reatta when you have the chance. we love pics!!!

i almost forgot - please check your tires for a date code. if they are over 8 years old or so, replace them: http://www.edmunds.com/car-care/how-old-and-dangerous-are-your-tires.html

hope this helps!