Transmission Lock

Just wondering. When did locking transmissions start to be offered on the DB 4 cyl cars? Were they an option? I see some cars with them and some without. Just wondering if I can put one in my early 25 roadster or did they appear later? It doesn't currently have one. Jay

FYI -- my '25 DB has a transmission lock. I seriously doubt this was offered as an option. My car was manufactured during the first week of July 1925 which actually makes it a 1926 model even though it was titled as 1925.

Mine was built the first week of Aug 1924 (1925 series) and I was just wondering if the locking tranny would be correct to install for that timeframe.

My '24 Fisher coupe has one. I doubt it was an option also. I'd rather think it came with certain models if they all didn't have it. You'd have to check the Master parts book to be sure. Are you sure you have the correct transmission?

My '26 DB coupe has a transmission lock. Anyone know if a locksmith can make a key for it?

My car doesn't have one currently but I found a better tranny out of an early 27 "C" that I want to put in. Just wondering if it would be correct with the lock for early 25.

A '27 has a normal shift pattern, definately wrong for a '25. It MAY mount different too as the '27 engine mounts different.

This is not a fast four but a multi disc clutch "C" motor. The tranny is the same setup as mine with the early shift pattern. They changed over shortly after.

I was able to get one made with the help of forum member Platt-Deutsch. You should be able to do a search for some threads on the subject.

To clear this one up I can say that the transmission lock was introduced with the 1924 series (commencing serial number 929894). As the wheelbase was increased from 114" to 166" from this number the gear lever design was changed to place it further back. The earlier lever was essentially upright with the top quarter bent backwards toward the driver. The later type is vertical from the bottom quarter and bent back thereafter. The transmission top was also changed from an arrangement where the gear lever was retained by a screwed ring to reliance on a set screw for this purpose. I am not sure if the earlier top will fit the later transmission but if it does there could have been some interchange of bits back in the dim dark past.

I can still make keys to fit them and I have the blanks. I need code number and works much better if I have the lock as some are really gummed up and need to be taken apart completely to clean out properly..

As long as the subject is transmission locks how BIG a PIA is it to remove one so I can have it keyed?

Tony - My 25 roadster A169xxx has the transmission top and early lever (bent at the top) that you describe. No lock. I haven't taken it apart yet but it's very sloppy. Having this later tranny available I was going to use it but I don't really want to sway from original for the year. That's why I asked about the lock. Thanks all for the input.

I'm also interested in seeing how difficult it is to remove the cylinder to get it keyed. Jay

Where is the code number?

The lock is relatively easy to remove. Take off the transmission cover and turn over. The lock is secured by a parallel pin next to it (fitting into a half circular notch in the lock body). Drive out the pin from the bottom and the lock should fall out.

The number is stamped on the bottom of the lock.

A very sloppy lever may be the result of the inner spring not being engaged. This spring surrounds the bottom of the lever which sits below the level of the transmission lid and is tensioned via a washer and pin. The pin goes through the lever and the washer has a rectangular hole. As there is an art in replacing this assembly it often gets left out. The trick is to drive the washer hard down on the lever (cupped side up) so it holds the spring in compression. The pin can then be inserted and the washer released by giving it a sharp tap on the side. The pin is then retained by the cupped side of the washer and the compression of the spring.

Great information Tony. I plan on working on the tranny over the winter so once I get it apart I'll determine if it can be repaired. I would prefer to keep the original if possible. Jay

Thanks Tony.........I was hoping it wouldn't take an act of Congress to get it out........

I can still make keys to fit them and I have the blanks. I need code number and works much better if I have the lock as some are really gummed up and need to be taken apart completely to clean out properly..

Hey PD,

Are you saying that we should sent the lock to you to be keyed?

That would be the best way to make sure the key works. I tried it by the code number and it didn't work. But it wasn't too difficult to rearrange the pins so it would work.

Does the transmission lock keep it from shifting? Can you lock it in any gear? Including neutral?

It locks it in neutral.

The lock only operates in neutral. It works by turning a flat ended rod within a slot in the selectors. Great idea! The car can't be driven under its own steam but the thieves can still roll it onto their waiting trailer and make a quick exit. The ignition key performs a similarly useful security function (at least on my magneto fired version). All it does is ground the ignition. Sparks can be restored by simply snipping the grounding wire. The only problem then faced by a thief is how to stop the engine when required (a quick stall perhaps).

Those paranoid individuals amongst us who choose to park their Dodge in doubtful areas might like to consider a length of anchor chain which could be fastened between the car and a suitably immovable object. A large, savage and rabid dog chained to the car might provide a further degree of personal reassurance.

All this is predicated by the assumptions that either:

1. the car is worth stealing, or

2.anyone would actually want it.

With tongue firmly embedded in cheek.

Tony

The lock only operates in neutral. It works by turning a flat ended rod within a slot in the selectors. Great idea! The car can't be driven under its own steam but the thieves can still roll it onto their waiting trailer and make a quick exit. The ignition key performs a similarly useful security function (at least on my magneto fired version). All it does is ground the ignition. Sparks can be restored by simply snipping the grounding wire. The only problem then faced by a thief is how to stop the engine when required (a quick stall perhaps).

Those paranoid individuals amongst us who choose to park their Dodge in doubtful areas might like to consider a length of anchor chain which could be fastened between the car and a suitably immovable object. A large, savage and rabid dog chained to the car might provide a further degree of personal reassurance.

All this is predicated by the assumptions that either:

1. the car is worth stealing, or

2.anyone would actually want it.

With tongue firmly embedded in cheek.

Tony

Love it!

My dad, 10 years deceased, shocked me when at age 65 he told me he one stole a car! He was in the Navy and he and his buddy were out drinking and had a long walk back to the ship. They found a car with keys left in the ignition! The drove it back to the ship and left it on the naval base.

My my dad was not the dishonest sort....just a moment of indiscretion. Fortunately they didn't get caught.

I worry about my car but really, not many people would know how to start it....and those who would know, are not the type who commit grand theft auto.

That would be the best way to make sure the key works. I tried it by the code number and it didn't work. But it wasn't too difficult to rearrange the pins so it would work.

So can I take it to a local locksmith instead? Same for the ignition switch?

A competent locksmith should be able to pick a transmission lock and cut a key to suit as it uses a standard Yale broach. A Clum ignition switch is another matter. If you have a Clum key with a DB number (up to 99) the switch can be adjusted to suit. These are wafer locks and it is only a matter of rearranging the wafers. In short, you need a Clum and a locksmith will not have one. They come up regularly on Ebay or Myers may be able to help. If your luck is in you may be able to get one to match the number on the front of the lock barrel. If all fails I have a spare (DB65 from memory). Send me a PM if you want it.

Tony

I managed to get a spare Clum for my '25 Dodge on ebay.......and for a couple other cars too.

I'd have paid WAY more than I did because having a spare is the best insurance against losing a key.......

A competent locksmith should be able to pick a transmission lock and cut a key to suit as it uses a standard Yale broach. A Clum ignition switch is another matter. If you have a Clum key with a DB number (up to 99) the switch can be adjusted to suit. These are wafer locks and it is only a matter of rearranging the wafers. In short, you need a Clum and a locksmith will not have one. They come up regularly on Ebay or Myers may be able to help. If your luck is in you may be able to get one to match the number on the front of the lock barrel. If all fails I have a spare (DB65 from memory). Send me a PM if you want it.

Tony

Thanks Tony. right now I'm too far from working on the lock but like to know what I'm in for. With the weather we been having here, I can't even get in the garage to work on getting it started. About the only thing I'm up to is cleaning out the gas tank and radiator!

Besides... that honey-do-list is killing me.

If you send me the lock I will fit keys to it and take it apart and clean it so it works properly

Siebring Lock

Box 36

George, IA 51237

Jay G, I have a '25 transmission that I can't use. If you need it, let me know. Willy

Thanks Willy - I wasn't looking for the tranny just the lock. I just got a lock from Tom and Cindy Myers. Working with 2 brand new keys. Thanks a bunch!!!