What's the make?

Thanks for your assistance everyone - I found that my Buick is a 1926 Master-Six Series, Model 26/47, not rare, but it was a total garage find! It had been sitting in an old garage in the Los Angeles area for about 50-60 years and at one time totally enclosed in vine and three feet of junk. The wood is about 85% gone (termites), but in each of the cars doors and frame sections their is at least one different section of wood to make templates. The roof is totally gone as well as the upholstery. The engine is complete as well all the undercarriage, wheels, dash, etc.

I am in the process of making an inventory of the parts that need repair, cleaning, powder coating, chroming, etc. Also, I have been researching on the different types of wood that were used for the frame, running boards, doors, etc. One of the aids that I have been using is the "Fisher Body Service Manual" (closed cars) and "Shop Manual" for the adjustment, repair and lubrication of Buick 1926, Standard and Master-Six. Just a note - I was lucky that the whole thing didn't fall apart on the 405 Freeway!

If anyone has any suggestions regarding the wooden frame construction or if anyone on this site has restored a 1926 Buick, please let me know - it would be appreciated.

Thanks, buickrestorer

You may want to invest in a copy of "Tips on Auto Body Woodwork" by Don Marsh, a short (18 page) pamphlet on how to replace old wood in Fisher body cars. Short, but every paragraph gives you good advice and names things that you need or need to do. The contact info I have is Don Marsh, PO Box 760, Spirit Lake Idaho 83869 208-6232039.

Wood used is critical. A lot of people like oak, I prefer ash, as it "works" better and gets hard as a rock with age.

Wood replacement in a Fisher body, or any early wood-framed/skinned car, is not a job for the faint at heart, but it can be done. Good luck!

How about some pics?

Brian - Thanks for the info on the Don Marsh pamphlet - I will give him a call. Yes, I agree with you on using ash instead of oak and being a furniture maker I am quite familiar will all the different joints that need to be used regarding the wooden framing for the body. At the present time I have been slowly tagging, taking pictures, documenting and removing termite infested wood. I will be sending pictures soon.

Thanks, wayne

Trimacar - Sorry, replied to the wrong person. SO - Thanks for the info on the Don Marsh pamphlet - I will give him a call. Yes, I agree with you on using ash instead of oak and being a furniture maker I am quite familiar will all the different joints that need to be used regarding the wooden framing for the body. At the present time I have been slowly tagging, taking pictures, documenting and removing termite infested wood. I will be sending pictures soon.

Thanks, wayne

You may want to invest in a copy of "Tips on Auto Body Woodwork" by Don Marsh, a short (18 page) pamphlet on how to replace old wood in Fisher body cars. Short, but every paragraph gives you good advice and names things that you need or need to do. The contact info I have is Don Marsh, PO Box 760, Spirit Lake Idaho 83869 208-6232039.

Wood used is critical. A lot of people like oak, I prefer ash, as it "works" better and gets hard as a rock with age.

Wood replacement in a Fisher body, or any early wood-framed/skinned car, is not a job for the faint at heart, but it can be done. Good luck!

what was the wood generally used? all the timber work on our Australian body cars are obviously Australian timbers

I'm still analyzing the wood that might have been originally used (termites, lots of termite have caused total damage to all wood sections). In the restoration process I will be using white ash for all the body construction and door framework. Have you any information regarding the wood structure on a 1926 Buick, Master-Six?

Thanks, wayne

my 32 was bad in the roof and the front door sills cowl area,i used wood glue and sawdust to repair the pieces,then you had a 3d model to make new ones,the hard part was wood came first then ,metal.

Wood to be used is a wonderful subject, with many facts, and many opinions.

Ash, fairly fresh a dried, works well ( think of working with soft iron vs hardened steel ), then after about two years hardens without warping. You'll make smoke trying to drill a hole in it at that point.

Pine is the Red Delicious apple of the wood world. Pretty, but useless and no character.

Oak is strong and hard and people love it and it warps and it gets too hard. Looks pretty, takes a nice stain, not the first choice for body wood unless it's far a depot hack or such and will be stained.

Get a relationship with your local wood vendor ( not Lowes or H D, but a guy who knows wood), he'll get you some nice ash to work with.

trimacar - Thanks for the breakdown of the different woods used in the restoration of early vehicles. Since I am a professional woodworker I have some edge on using soft to very hard woods but since this is a new area for me I need to take everything I do down a nich!

Thanks, wayne

pacrat - Interesting. It seems that you had some wood to work with - the only wood I have been able to save is anywhere between 2" and 4" and they have been termite infested for years. I found that the cowl area is somewhat in tack, but not having much to go on has been a challenge to replicate new pieces. I've had some success as to how the body construction was formed by using the "Fisher Body Service Manual" and pictures from online restoration companies. I will send pictures soon.

Thanks, wayne

There are wood parts in the body whose function is interior trim and garnish molding mounting. You want to use Poplar for this non structural wood. It is much easier to tack trim and run screws and nails into the poplar. Poplar is a straight grained easy to cut and form and is considered quite stable without warp.

Bob Engle

Bob - This is great info. It seems that all wood looks alike after the termites have had a few bites - you can't tell what type of wood has been used on this Buick!

Thanks, wayne