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26 Dodge rear window wood - before and after pic


Rogillio

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You must have felt a sense of job satisfaction now it's back in. Well done!

I have done a fair bit of timber frame building and a little tip I would give to anyone taking on this type of work is consider whether stainless screws are a bit too soft. I know there are many different grades of stainless but I have found the screws generally available have their limitations. The heads can sheer off when tightened. Although there is no problem in this situation I would generally use galvanised steel screws with just a light smear of grease. No need to worry about corrosion; they will probably out live all of us!

Ray

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Use grease without "molypoly" or molybdenum disulphide in it. The stuff is corrosive and the grease is then loaded with anti-corrosives, which only work until the grease dries out, which it will in the wood. Then you have a screw with corrosive compounds on it. I was always taught to wipe the screw on soap first. Also, grease generally contains platy minerals (clay), which adsorb water when the grease dries out, which is also corrosive of course.

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I have dismantled timbers from my 28 D.B. senior. I found few screws came off with rust on threads to the point where it was difficult to turn. Most came off loaded with crud almost like there was no thread. I think screws went through glued joints taking some glue with it. Some had to be drilled out. Stainless screws are good enough if the holes are predrilled and screws dipped in molly grease. The big question is, with modern materials and knowing the car will not be exposed as it was for the last 80 years there is the probability that one may never have to change the timber for the next hundred years or more. I am fortunate that I am able to reuse most of the timbers and had the samples of the bad ones. The rear door hinge post with the curved piece around the fender well is a challenge. That post assembly is extremely critical. If not done right the door will never fit or close properly . The inside of the door panels and the inside of the rear body was covered with a black material as a sound barrier. WHERE CAN I GET REPLACEMENT ?. Any leads ?. Cheers and have a nice day.

Harry.

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I think you may be seeing "nail sickness". The fastener rusts and the wood fibres in contact with the rust are destroyed by it. You finish up with a poorly gripping fastener.

In New Zealand, wooden decks are popular. They are almost always laid with no fall so don't drain easily and can remain wet for long periods. They are not painted. Kwila used to be popular but it was generally illegally logged in the tropics so is no longer available. Now treated pine is used. This is loaded with copper compounds in the treatment. The kwila sap has the same effect: galvanised nails rust quickly (galvanic corrosion in the case of copper on steel). With "nail sickness" plus thermal and wetting-drying expansion and contraction of the timber, the nails work their way out. The result is a hazardous deck.

One solution is grooved and double-headed nails (one head above the other). Same problem. Stainless or copper is the only way to go. High grade stainless. Or a paved terrace rather than a deck. (Wet timber also grows mold and algae and becomes slippery. Ours did.)

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Hi Rogillio, this Senior thing is sort of special in some ways. The black stuff is a fabric about 3/16 thick, smooth on one side and furry on the other. It is glued onto the sheet metal inside. It has remained on 3 doors but fell off one door and the rear inside of the tub. It is even on the kick panels. Knock on the door with the missing one and the sound is tinnie. Knock on the door that has it and sound is a thud. Thank you for your suggestion. I may have to go that way. Cheers.

Harry.

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