Chefcg1 Posted October 29, 2014 Author Share Posted October 29, 2014 Remember the circumference is the same on the wheels its the width that makes the difference and the fact that I'm lowered 2". I'm probably a 1/4" from full lock and I think I can improve that with a little work, but I need a second set of hands and a day off to move forward on that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
devildog93 Posted October 29, 2014 Share Posted October 29, 2014 The circumference is the same between 17" wheels and 20" wheels? How do you figure? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chefcg1 Posted October 30, 2014 Author Share Posted October 30, 2014 The circumference is the same between 17" wheels and 20" wheels? How do you figure?its the overall package with tires, Factory wheels are 15" and have a diameter of 725mm/28.8inch. my 20" with tires are 728mm/28.7inch a .4% difference. We are keeping the overall diameter as close as possible so that the car has the same speedo reading and handling characteristics. The width is what has changed and thus the rubbing. Check out the link bellow it give a good idea of fitment.http://www.automobile-catalog.com/tire/1965/88505/buick_riviera_401_v-8.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
devildog93 Posted October 30, 2014 Share Posted October 30, 2014 (edited) Gotcha. Yea, i am keeping mine with the original stance, so no lowering, but i will probably play with the tiREs when i get to them to get what i want under it without rubbing. I would like to go 235 or 245/60 in the front and 275/60 in the back if at all possible, but i guess we will see. Edited October 30, 2014 by devildog93 (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cool57 Posted October 30, 2014 Share Posted October 30, 2014 Since you removed the over axle portion of the exhaust, how is it routed now? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
devildog93 Posted October 30, 2014 Share Posted October 30, 2014 I cut my pipes to dump directly in front of tires. I'm still working out how to fit glass packs in, or if i even want them when i decide how the engine side of the exhaust is going to run. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chefcg1 Posted November 9, 2014 Author Share Posted November 9, 2014 I spent some time with the car today and put 5/16th spacers on the front with ET lugs and now the front does not rub!!! it was rubbing on the inside frame not the fender it turned out. I can go full lock either way. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
devildog93 Posted November 10, 2014 Share Posted November 10, 2014 Great news and congrats. So would ordering the wheels with a different backspacing been the way to get ahead of the problem you think? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chefcg1 Posted November 10, 2014 Author Share Posted November 10, 2014 Yes, I think a 5mm. Offset up front would have solved the issue. I would not go wider than a 245 tire up front as I think you will start hitting the fender when turning. The rears I would go with a 10mm offset to clear factory exhaust. You have tones of space so width is not an issue. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
devildog93 Posted November 11, 2014 Share Posted November 11, 2014 Exhaust won't be an issue. I will be remaking the exhaust from the manifolds back and will likely be dumping them just in front of the wheels. The exhaust was rusted out from the rear wheels back, so i cut it and dumped them in front of the rear wheels to experiment and see what it sounded like. With no muffler and straight pipes it still isn't real obnoxious. i will likely be experimenting with a glass pack or something then some turn-downs to send it away from the car and towards the ground and see what it sounds like there. After i try a couple of things i will get set on one thing or another and get to mocking it up. I will likely be another month in body work before i even get to that though.I don't suppose the fronts have to be 245, it was just a leaning. 225 will be just fine. The rears are the important part for traction if i get it to the power level i am expecting but i still want it to keep a similar stance to yours. Just a quick, fun drive back and forth to work car that can cruise comfortably on the highway or hang out with the hot rod crew around town and not be the fat kid so to speak. A little sleeper action would be nice. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chefcg1 Posted November 11, 2014 Author Share Posted November 11, 2014 275's in the rear should give you plenty of traction, unless you get over 500hp or torque then I would look into going 285's.youll have to post what you end up with mufflers, with sound clips. My exhaust is in great shape, but I'm going to probably try some different mufflers after I put my headers on this winter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cstang50 Posted November 11, 2014 Share Posted November 11, 2014 the car looks really good i like how those rims look on there. what kind of mufflers are you running? i have magnpacks on mine right now but thinking of changing it up soon.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chefcg1 Posted November 11, 2014 Author Share Posted November 11, 2014 the car looks really good i like how those rims look on there. what kind of mufflers are you running? i have magnpacks on mine right now but thinking of changing it up soon..Thanks! to be honest I have no idea what's on the car now, I just know that it looks in good shape. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RivNut Posted November 11, 2014 Share Posted November 11, 2014 , unless you get over 500hp or torque then I would look into going 285's.500 hp? Not out of a nailhead unless it's built for race only. You gotta' remember that the 325 horsepower 401 had the hp measured at the flywheel. And the manufacturers were probably a little over exuberant when they claimed that. One of the guy's over on the V8Buick.com website, who is dynoing his 468 cid blown nailhead is getting 426 hp at the flywheel and 349 at the rear wheels. Today's cars are pushing 600+ hp at the rear wheels. If you're trying to build a race Riviera, and want gobs of hp, you should probably swap a new crate motor into your car. Ed Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chefcg1 Posted November 11, 2014 Author Share Posted November 11, 2014 500 hp? Not out of a nailhead unless it's built for race only. You gotta' remember that the 325 horsepower 401 had the hp measured at the flywheel. And the manufacturers were probably a little over exuberant when they claimed that. One of the guy's over on the V8Buick.com website, who is dynoing his 468 cid blown nailhead is getting 426 hp at the flywheel and 349 at the rear wheels. Today's cars are pushing 600+ hp at the rear wheels. If you're trying to build a race Riviera, and want gobs of hp, you should probably swap a new crate motor into your car. EdThat was kind of the point I was making, that 275's in the rear should be plenty of traction! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now