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Where do you find replacement metal fuel lines?


Guest frcc16

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OK... Sounds like I have some paths to follow....

It's sometimes amazing (and sometimes, discouraging) to find all the shortcuts that previous owners took, along the way, to keep their old cars running... I'm guessing before they became vintage!

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Any auto parts store sells steel fuel line in 25 foot rolls, it is not expensive.

Start by unrolling a couple of feet, standing on the free end and unrolling it against the floor. This is the quickest way of unrolling it and keeping it straight.

You have already taken the old line off carefully, without bending it up too much.

Now you can put the same bends in the new line, copying the old line. I leave a few inches extra at the end, and tape both together with masking tape as I go along. Use your tubing bender here.

When you are done, cut to length and flare the ends with your flaring tool. Don't forget to put the nuts or fitting on first.

Tape the end to hold the nut in place, and keep dirt out.

Install the new line under the car. In some cases it is necessary to cut the line in 2 and put a joint in the middle. You can do 2 flare fittings, they make a fitting you can screw both ends into for this joint.

When installing the ends I find it best to bend the end so it comes straight at the fitting, and be careful starting the threads.

You will need a bender tube cutter and flaring tool in addition to regular hand tools. A long tapered reamer is handy for removing burrs from the inside of the line.

I prefer to cut the old line off next to the end fitting using side cutter pliers, and remove the fitting with a socket wrench. Be sure to support the other fitting with a wrench.

It is a fiddly time consuming job but not very difficult. And it only needs to be done every 20 to 50 years.

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Sounds like good practice to prepare the brake lines that I'll need , too!... The owner(s) before me have installed rubber gas line on both ends! Guess they weren't very talented at flaring and bending fuel line!!!!

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Your car originally had flared connections at the fuel tank and on the rubber fuel line from the chassis to fuel pump. If you need a new, correct rubber line Andy Bernbaum has them. Or you could simplify things by using bits of rubber hose to connect things up.

If you do that, you can use the flaring tool to upset the end of the steel line into a slight bubble which will help it seal and stay attached.

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Excellent! I'll check it out! I come to realize that when buying vehicles like these that haven't been restored... there will be things covered up and embelished, etc. But this takes the cake... I just realized last night that my spare tire is mounted on a rim that doesn't even go to this car!!!! SERIOUSLY!!??? C'mon man!

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Regards to the spare... the diameter of the 5 bolt pattern is about 1 inch larger than my Dodge. I figure I can use the tire on my rim anyway.

With regards to the fuel line. I have to agree that this car doesn't need the best of stuff. I have already elected to go with the aluminized exhaust as it will probably never see snow, salt, or even rain and probably last my lifetime. And I'm seriously considering re-covering the trunk (that has a number of dime size holes and smaller) with fiberglass over metal. I admit I shouldn't go that route for the inside floor but I believe, if done right, the fiberglass would work well for the trunk....

AND.. I apologize for rambling on about multiple topics here!!! I was warned early on that, while working on the car, not to try to take on too much at a time or it will get overwhelming! I can see how easily that can happen for sure!

Thanks!!!

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I wouldn't use fibreglass, it can trap moisture and make it rust worse. Paint with POR15 or Rustoleum. Cover holes with aluminum tape or galvanized steel patches and pop rivets. I know this is not ideal, but it is a fix and does not make it too hard to redo properly in the future.

Are you getting the idea of why substandard repairs get made?

For the fuel line, OEM quality plated steel IS the best, cunifer or stainless is overkill.

For the spare, if you can't find an original Dodge wheel, one off an older RWD Ford, Dodge or Chrysler product will work if you drill a hole for the locating pin.

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Remember brake lines will require a double flare. If your into this for the long haul it's worth it to buy a quality flairing tool. If it's a one and done thing, borrow a buddy's tool. Yes, the copper/nickle stuff is expensive but when putting complex bends in the tubing and the double flairs you might just think it's worth it. I did.

Edited by Beltfed (see edit history)
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Here is what I consider the standard of a good brake flaring too. The top row.

https://www.google.com/search?q=Kent+Moore+J-45405&biw=1440&bih=752&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ei=5yYnVNHmGYmTyASs1YLgCw&ved=0CAgQ_AUoAw

But...... the one on ebay has a number of the pieces missing. There should be I think 6 of the square blocks at the top row.

I have one of these and they make doing brake lines an easier experience for a quality job.

Edited by Larry Schramm (see edit history)
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