1936 Dodge Serial Number tag

Hello, I have a 1936 dodge that I am working on consigning with an auction company. I am getting negative feedback from them about my serial number tag that is located on the passenger side hinge pillar. It is a basic tag with serial number written on it and the serial number stamped in it. The gentleman from the auction company says that because it is a Canadian built car that it should say on the tag "manufactured in Canada". He also says that the font of the number is not correct for the time. I am trying to obtain as many photos of serial number tags off of original cars of that era. Dodge, Plymouth etc. that would help solidify some of the information I have already obtained. Thank you 1936 D2. Anyone with photos of their serial number tags out there? I realize that you may not want to post or send the entire number. Partial would be fine, especially if you could include a number 3 as that seems to be one of the numbers with the font in question. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you

Antique Vehicles are titled using different numbers in different States back in the day.

Some States used the Engine Number, which you will find on the left side of the block, between the front #1 and the #2 cylinders, just below the head. This number is on the rectangular raised pad. Any letters or numbers on the raised "dots" ahead or after this rectangle are NOT part of the engine number. A '36 Dodge car's "Engine Number" will either start with a "D2" (most common and used with Domestic USA cars) and you may also see "D3" or "D4" used on vehicles that were either made for Export or constructed outside of the USA.

Some States use the car's Serial Number that is found on an aluminum tag on the right front door's hinge ("A") pillar between the hinges. This plate is installed with two one time use "drive screws". They have no slots on them and will have a point on the inside. This tag has a black applied inking that says "SERIAL NUMBER" on it. The "S" in serial will be at the bottom of the plate so it can be read from the outside.

There is a hidden number applied to the frame of cars during production. This number is the "Engine Number" of the engine installed on the assembly line. This number is quite hard to find and usually requires that the body be lifted from the frame to observe it.

As far as I know, there is no "Serial Number" stamped on the frame of cars anywhere like there is on trucks.

Here is some reference information concerning the Serial Numbers used for Dodge in the early years:

Here are some shots of original "Serial Number" plates:

Here are the firewall tags for 1936 Dodge (Domestic) including the Manufacturer's Tag and the "Body Number" tag:

Maybe someone else can show the Canadian version of this Manufacturer's plate.

Thank you that is very helpful. I believe that the Canadian built models had "manufactured in Canada" on the body tag on the firewall. If anyone has a photo of that plate it would be awesome.

As an insite, my car was registered in Washington State with the body number stamped on the fire wall!! So much for continuity!!

1936 Dodge D2 4 dr sedan

"countrytravler" excellent! He now has the definitive info there with the last photo concerning all of the Serial Number series and associated models during that time period.

"kevinsrods", now post a couple photos of the car, maybe from the right front and the left rear. We will then be able to help you decipher the model, year, and any special features we see that may make a difference. Things like the grill shape and ornament features, the windshield shape, the position of the gas tank filler, the bumper shapes, wheel style, etc can all help us help you identify your particular car's year and model compared to your Serial Number plate.

Take a couple photos of the vehicle at say around 3MP for the imager size. Or at least make sure the photos are 2000 pixels or a bit less on the longest dimension (horizontal and vertical) and save them to your computer. (Remember where!) Then on the "Quick Reply" window to this thread, write a little info about the photos then, with your cursor on the line below your comments, click on the "Insert Image" icon and from the "From Computer" tab locate the images on your computer, select them (with Open or double click) and then click the "Upload Images" button. That will put them at the location of the cursor in the "Quick Reply" box. When done typing comments just click the "Post Quick Reply" button at the bottom and you are done! Then sit back and wait for the comments!

(BTW: We LOVE photos!)

"countrytravler" excellent! He now has the definitive info there with the last photo concerning all of the Serial Number series and associated models during that time period.

"kevinsrods", now post a couple photos of the car, maybe from the right front and the left rear. We will then be able to help you decipher the model, year, and any special features we see that may make a difference. Things like the grill shape and ornament features, the windshield shape, the position of the gas tank filler, the bumper shapes, wheel style, etc can all help us help you identify your particular car's year and model compared to your Serial Number plate.

Take a couple photos of the vehicle at say around 3MP for the imager size. Or at least make sure the photos are 2000 pixels or a bit less on the longest dimension (horizontal and vertical) and save them to your computer. (Remember where!) Then on the "Quick Reply" window to this thread, write a little info about the photos then, with your cursor on the line below your comments, click on the "Insert Image" icon [ATTACH=CONFIG]271293[/ATTACH] and from the "From Computer" tab locate the images on your computer, select them (with Open or double click) and then click the "Upload Images" button. That will put them at the location of the cursor in the "Quick Reply" box. When done typing comments just click the "Post Quick Reply" button at the bottom and you are done! Then sit back and wait for the comments!

(BTW: We LOVE photos!)

Photo can save a 1000 words.

1936, thanks for the kido's-makes it worth while. As you know, a lot of time is spent on research that a lot of people don't realize.

A real nice 36 at the Dodge 100 year party in Detroit.

"kevinsrods" - You may want to try a VERY LIGHT buffing of your Serial Number plate by the numbers area only (don't want to mess up the black paint on the tag) with an aluminum buffing compound on a cloth Dremel wheel (or some such process) just to be able to bring out the specific curves of the numbers a bit more. BE AWARE - I don't know how much WA State allows for messing with the Serial Number plate though. I would think making the number more readable for accuracy sake would be of more interest than any comment concerning "alteration" from this buffing process. But this is just my opinion. Laws are fickle sometimes! As long as this is a "cleaning" process and not an "alteration" process... Well, you get my drift.

I am still looking for clear photos of Serial Number plates that would display a "3" though. No luck yet.

You may also be a bit further ahead getting comments from people about the model designation and year of your vehicle from photos you would post before going too nuts on the Serial Number plate. Their comments may lead you to knowing what the numbering series SHOULD be, which would make the numbers more easily confirmed without having to do anything to the plate at all.

Oh, and a little side note, your camera's settings should have the ability to go into "macro" mode (the little tulip icon) which would help greatly when taking closeups of things like these number plates, ornament detail, gauge faces, woodgraining patterns, etc. Then you can get in to like 6 inches when lining up the shot. Really helps the detail! Probably can't use the on-camera flash though when in this close. Just use a separate side light of some kind.

Not clear what this is for-(I am still looking for clear photos of Serial Number plates that would display a "3" though. No luck yet)

Oops. Was a request during his email contacts. Must be having trouble deciphering between 3's and 8's.

I am pretty sure the 3's had flat tops. Have seen that on Engine Numbers but not positive on Serial Number plates.

He is also looking for a photo of an original 1936 Manufacturer's firewall plate showing Canadian manufacture.

Hello all, This is just simply awesome. The photos that have come up here have been a huge help. It will be no problem convincing the auction company that this is legit. Regarding the 3 font on the tags, all of them that I have seen on these tags are consistent with what I have which is not flat on the top. It is just a rounded three similar to the font here '3' as are most of the other numerals. I know the Ford numbers are flat on the top. It would still be nice to see a Canadian body tag to see what they look like. Just in case anyone has one. By the way all of the photos of the cars are incredible. Owning and operating a restoration shop I understand the amount of time and effort that goes into these cars. I would love to post a photo of my car, however, I fear that I would be crucified because of the changes that were made. I will say that if you would like to see it simply google 2014 Goodguys America's Most Beautiful Street Rod. Let me just say in my defense that I do have a great appreciation for the stock restored cars that I see here on this forum. We are currently restoring a '29 buick and will be starting the Dutch Darrin '42 Lincoln this winter. Again thank you to all who have replied. Kevin

Does this help ?

ID Tag is from a New Zealand guy who I'm helping to try an get an ID Tag made.

The Serial Number....that contains a "3" is another member.

Cheers

Ian

I like it!

OK so the cats out of the bag. That is it. I would like to inform the purists among you that we were able to help out a local restorer who has a coupe, a four door sedan and a two door sedan with some much needed parts that we were not using. Thank you for the positive comment.

According to "countrytravler's" "Dodge Master Parts List" Serial Number listings page, we find your car was a "1936 Dodge D3 Canadian 2Dr Touring Sedan". It would not be a big deal to have Washington State assign it a Serial Number for future titling. The car that was #9318017 is no more.

I guess it would now be a "2014 KB 2Dr Sedan". As I suspected earlier on it does not have a lot of resemblance to a '36 Dodge. But it still is one of the coolest mods I have seen done.

Thank you 1936 D2. As we began the design aspect of this car. One of our goals was to get people scratching theirs heads a bit. There are elements of the original car that we just did not want to lose. One major aspect was the grille. As I'm sure you are very well aware it is not easy to restore a stock grille. We opted to create one from scratch that came as close as possible to the original. Believe it or not we did not change the grille opening. You could actually bolt in a stock grille. I really wanted to run the stock '36 grille emblem as well. We also used a '37 trunk emblem on the deck lid. Karla Maxwell did an outstanding job of restoring them. The other element of the car that I did not want to change was the general shape of the fenders. Of all of the 30's era cars the fenders on the Dodges and Plymouths are my favorite. They just have great lines. We simply extended the inner portion of the front fenders to level them out. Now getting back to the serial number. So I obviously have a Canadian manufactured 1936 Dodge. It has a serial number tag with the said serial number. I have a good clear Washington state title with that same serial number that the DOL has reinforced is good. You are correct in saying that it is a D3. As it was mentioned in one of the posts that the export cars and those manufactured in Canada were designated as so. It also coincided with a document that I have with all of the serial numbers and models. I mention all of this to question you in regards to your statement that this serial number is no more. What exactly do you mean by that?

I guess it is more of a statement that the vehicle that was made in Canada with that Serial Number is no more. It is gone. It is now a different vehicle, modified from the original engineering enough that it is no longer a Dodge. Almost none of the original patent descriptions would fit anymore.

With that said, it would now be more YOUR work of art. A "2014 Kevin B" if you will, but sorry, not a Dodge. This is a very interesting car in its own right, but also, not a Dodge. Your creation is an impressive piece of engineering and you rightly should get the credit for it. But again, not a Dodge.

Chrysler engineers should get the credit for the engineering they performed in the '30's and the name Dodge that they were then allowed to place on that engineering by contract. But again, your creation needs a new name. IMHO. ?

Ok. So I suppose that I could get a little bent out of shape here but I am not going to.. I do understand your point to some degree. The funny thing is that as radically modified as the car appears it actually is a combination of subtle modifications. The wheelbase is stock. The fenders are pretty much stock. The quarter panels are stock. The top has not even been chopped. The deck lid is exactly the same as stock. Yes it has a complete new hood and new running boards. The rear area below the trunk lid is also new. Those are the only panels that are not the originals. It is also funny how the most common response when we have had it at the shows is how we were simply able to improve on the original design element of the car without deviating to far from what it is. I realize that those comments are from different perspectives. Let me just say that I am a car nut. I love all of them. I love restored cars, hot rods, customs, muscle cars, most especially the coachbuilt cars of the 20's and 30's. There are certain cars a person comes across that would be a crime to turn into a hot rod. I understand that. This was not one of those cars. It had a scabbed up modified frame that I would not dare take out on the road. The floor was pretty much gone. The rear panel below the trunk lid was completely rusted. The way I see it we were able to save this car and turn it into something that I believe the Dodge brothers would have said wow to. At some point we have to realize why it is that we are where we are in the automotive industry. There is a reason that a '37 Dodge is different than a '36. It is because the designers were constant pushing forward. Pushing the envelope if you will. If we are going to go by your viewpoint the vast majority of classic cars today would have to have their own unique serial number as most of them have been modified. What you are saying is that a beautifully chopped 50 merc sled would no longer be a merc. Or a totally cool original bodied 1932 Ford hot rod could no longer wear the blue oval. I apologize but I am going to maintain the serial number tag that grew on this car. Yes it is modified but it is still a Dodge. Always has been and always will be. I do want to again thank you all for the help in solidifying the authenticity of my serial number. Kevin

Hello Kevin. I have been following this thread with interest. I think there is a risk of misunderstanding exactly what 1936D2 is saying. I don't think anyone is saying anything derogatory about your work; far from it. I understand how you have taken a decrepit rust bucket and made it into a usable vehicle again which will undoubtedly appeal to a section of the market but not necessarily the section who are looking for a stock Dodge of the 1930's. I think you will agree that a stock 1930's car is not what you are going to be offering.

The problem I would have with 1936D2's assertion that the car has been modified to such an extent that it is no longer a Dodge is that so far reference has only been made to the appearance of the body. The defining features of a manufacturers identity must surely be characterised by the chassis and running gear because a great many vehicles were bodied by outside coachbuilders and their sheet metalwork bears very little resemblance to the 'factory' products. What I don't know is whether or not American cars of this period were identified by body design patents; in which case there may be a grey area regarding official recognition of modified vehicles in general.

Should you have radically departed from the Dodge Brothers chassis and drivetrain, then I would have to side with 1936D2 that the identity of your car is in doubt. If however the chassis, axles and drivetrain is essentially of the period then I would not think you have a problem with the Dodge name.

Again, this is not a criticism but a reasonable assessment of the facts before us as I see it.

Ray.

O.K. so I have come to the conclusion that what we are dealing with here are simply different perspectives on vehicles serial numbers. I was raised up by my father who grew up in the '50's hot rod scene. My whole life has been influenced by that. When you think about it. It is not much different than the coach builders of the day. Were they not taking a chassis from lets say a Mercedes or maybe a Packard here in the states. They would then coachbuild a body. for that chassis. I would bet that what the title had on it was the chassis number. Case in point. I own a 1942 Lincoln Continental Cabriolet. I had custom coachwork done by Dutch Darrin when it was a brand new car to the point that it no longer looks like a 1942 Lincoln with the exception of the front and rear. A 1942 Lincoln has an integrated chassis. Guess what the title has on it still to this day. That it is a 1942 Lincoln with the proper serial number for the car in which the number is still stamped in the frame rail. So the actual facts of the matter are that a 1936 Dodge did not have a serial number stamped on the frame as a Ford would have had. It had the serial number on the passenger side hinge pillar obviously as has been established in this forum. If a coachbuilder could take a chassis and build a body to fit onto that chassis and have it titled as to the chassis then why would we today not be able to do the opposite. Use a body which has a clear serial number posted on it and create a new chassis for it and still have it considered a Dodge. Let's be perfectly honest. When I have the car sitting at a show and they are wondering what kind of car they are viewing it is not "Oh, this must be a 2014 Kevin B." What I hear is "Wow it is a Dodge" "Wow" I have never seen one done like this before. "How Cool". In other words it is still recognizable by almost everyone as a Dodge. Now if you took a coachbuilt Fernandez and Darrin Mercedes would you hear people say "What a cool Mercedes". No, even though it is probably titled as a Mercedes. I could be wrong about that, but to my knowledge that is how those cars were registered. How about all of the Darrin Packards. Are they not still Packards? How many more 1932 Fords are there today(and I am not just talking about the fiberglass ones)than were ever produced with a majority of those cars titled as 1932 Fords. The bottom line is that I appreciate all of you out there who are the purists. preserving the pastime of the automobile. I enjoy doing the same when I have the opportunity. They are some of my favorite cars to look at whenever I attend any kind of show. What you guys have to understand, however, it that the true facts are what they are. By the State of Washington and for that matter any state in this country, along with any country out there where this car could end up, this car is a Dodge and it has serial number 9318017. It is clearly stated as so by the State of Washington. I never started this post with the serial number of this car in question. Only that an auction company was questioning the validity of the tag itself. I believe that we have established that it is valid and I thank you all for your help in that. I would be an absolute fool to title it as anything else as then it would be up for all kinds of emission control issues. Why would I do that. It is as though you are offended that it carries a Dodge serial number and I do not understand that. Never will. Its is as though you would have rather had this car be sent to the crusher or simply left to rot in a field that to have anything done to it at all. But again I guess that it is a matter of perspective. Mine is open to see a vehicle for what it is whether it is restored, customized or otherwise, also considering where the car came from. What was the canvas in which the builder started. Believe it or not, not every canvas is blank when you start something. I have to give credit where credit is due. I have to give credit to the Dodge Brothers for creating a canvas for me to start with that included some beautiful pieces as well as very tasteful lines.

Kevin, please read the posts again. No one here is offended and no criticism has been made of you or your car.

I like all of Kevins points here as I like to build hot rods as well. In fact I have a modified 36 Dodge. It was a field find and I had to accept an Oregon ID tag as I never did have a title for it and it did not have the tag on the door post.

However I am a Mopar guy and it kills me to see SBCs in an old Mopar. So with that said I note that Kevin has not told us what he has for running gear. If its Mopar I applaud that. If he is all hyped up about keeping his Dodge a Dodge then it must have a Hemi or a 'B' engine in it. Right?

Oh yea, I found that a 37 grill fits right in to the 36.

I am actually not offended, I actually appreciate the positive comments about the car. I am just trying to drive home the fact of what this car is. It is a modified 1936 Dodge D3 touring sedan. I did not start with a stack of sheet metal and create this car from scratch. I merely took something that I viewed as great potential and made the necessary modifications to achieve the design that we were striving for. Its just that simple. Let's be clear that when someone is viewing a car it is the exterior that they attach the identification to not patents on a chassis or drivetrain. When we in the custom car world discuss different cars the usage of patents do not become part of our dialog. I realize that it might be so when on this forum. It is just not in my eyes or most car enthusiast that I know something that identifies a particular vehicle. Here are some examples. Can you tell me the year make and model of these cars:

Jack

Did you use the side grills from a car or truck? Whats mods did you have to make? Center grill and shell totally different. Is that your 36? you need a crank cover. Nice car.

Dave, I know that they are different, but they interchange as seen in my photo.

I have the crank hole cover. I took it off recently to send some pictures to somebody and have yet to put it back on. By the way, these covers will fall off on a rough road (ask me how I know). I always use a few zip ties so that wont happen again. It took me years to find another one. I see they are re-popped now.

On another note about crank hole covers and not to intentionally hyjack. My neighbor that bought the house that long ago housed the DG8 that we built a couple of years ago showed up at my house with the "missing coffee can" of parts that he found while cleaning the barn. It had all of the elusive pieces that we had to buy and also has the correct and near perfect DG8 crank hole cover that we never could find. What a score !!!!

Hey Kevin, a nice bunch of cars, but show us that Hemi....LOL

That purple 52 wagon parked next to me a few months ago at 'Papas Toys'. I sort of know that guy as he was camped near us in Puyallup as well. Same car as my avatar, kinda.

But I was driving a different modified Mopar at GGs.

O.K. lets talk about the running gear a bit. I know I will be absolutely crucified for this, however, you must realize as this project began we were building it for a customer and decisions were made that I had no control over. So there was a time when I did not care what the powerplant was. And in some cases that still holds true. Understand that this project was began back in 2001. The late model hemi's were not available at that time. The car that we started with had a small block Chev in it and the customer was very happy with the way it performed in the car. He is not necessarily a Mopar car but just a guy who wanted a cool hot rod. Believe me I tried my hardest to talk him into running some sort of Mopar powerplant in this car as I knew we would catch havoc for it. Needless to say I was unsuccessful it achieving my want and had to surrender to the wants of my customer. I did tell him, however, that I do not want a small block Chevrolet staring at us in the face when we pop the hood open and that I was going to come up with a design that would disguise his choice of powerplant. This is what we came up with. Please be kind. I will also say that in my eyes this does not effect what the car is recognized as being

You really must stop apologising for your workmanship. This is not like anything I have ever seen and is so personal it is almost beyond criticism.

Ray.

That is an awesome cover up in order to make the powerplant look like a HEMI. I commend you!

you have to admire the workmanship that these people have. it's like art in one way....personal choice and I think the job done here is spectacular to say the least.

HOLY CRAP is that engine cover cool! Almost makes you wonder why the car has a hood!

Still, not much real Dodge in that car but the design workmanship is absolutely stunning! Thanks for the "preliminary view".

Again, I do not complain about anyone that takes a rusty heap and makes a work of art, but I do have a problem with those that take a perfectly good original specimen and then proceed to modify it. I'm just saying I do appreciate all the cool engineering done over 70 years ago too which was all part of the road to today's products.

You look at things like the electric automatic choke used on the Chrysler products of the day, the electrical engineering done on the charging, regulation and battery systems. The extensive amount of geometry and metallurgical experimentation constantly being done with the engineering on the front suspension and steering areas, some of the nifty interior and convenience engineering done to the passenger compartment like the first crank window venting, etc. There is almost too much to mention.

But my position is that none of that engineering is present anymore on your car. It has all been "modernized" well beyond the design of the time. Hence no longer a Dodge.

Again, this is all IMHO. We easily can agree to disagree here because I still appreciate the obvious quality of your design work and that it was not done to a preservable original car.

Kudos!

I think you have summed it up nicely 1936D2.

Kevin, you obviously have a gift for what you do. Where we would disagree, I feel, is around the academic issue of identity and heritage. I fully understand your wish to cling to the Dodge name but to do so with integrity, I believe you would need an original historic vehicle.

If I had your talent, I would be proud to put my own name to my creation whilst perhaps giving a nod to it's distant Dodge past rather than pretend that it is still what it used to be.

Absolutely no disrespect intended or inferred in expressing my boring and dull opinion.

Ray.

Location of number on the frame?

Bump

Canadian-built Chrysler products had a different body tag from that used in the U.S.  The American body tags had just the body style number followed by a sequential number. 

Canadian-built cars a a body tag with :

Model No,

Body No.

Trim Code

Paint Code

Your 1936 Dodge, being a D3, would have "D3" beside Model No. with 4dr Sdn, 4dr Trg Sdn, or similar.

The Body No. would be just that, the sequential number built of the Model No. entered on the tag.

I have run into people who have taken the tag off the cowl having been convinced the tag was not authentic.  It was, indeed, authentic and was used from sometime in 1935 through to the end of the 1965 model year.   1966 and up models used the U.S. body tag with the options all nicely listed on the tag.

The serial number is still valid as the serial number was the chassis number, not the body number.   Chassis units shipped overseas (such as Australia) had no body but had the serial number on the chassis and also the engine number to identify the unit.  Generally, bodies built in the country the chassis was shipped to the body company attached a plate to the firewall to show who built the body and the assigned body number.

Chrysler Corporation of Canada Limited appeared on the red tag attached to the firewall along with the Dodge name and emblem.

The D3 was built in the U.S. and Canada for export and the Canadian market.  All Plymouth body styles were available on the U.S.-built D3 (3,073 built) while the Canadian D3 was available as business coupe, 2 door sedan, 4 door sedan, 2 door touring sedan, 4 door touring sedan, and commercial sedan bodies using same trim and engine as the Plymouth P1 (Six).    The D3 was sold as the Six in Canada - 1,319 built.  Chrysler of Canada also offered the D4 model in Canada, being similar to the Plymouth P2 (DeLuxe) and sold as the DeLuxe Six.  Engine was the Plymouth P2 unit.  Body styles were business coupe, rumble seat coupe, 2 door touring sedan, 4 door touring sedan, and convertible coupe - 5,645 built.  The D2 was built and sold in Canada as the Custom Six with the same body styles as the D4 plus the extended wheelbase 7 passenger sedan - 3,368 built.

Most government officials, it seems, believe the present day rules and regulations for engine numbers, VIN and so forth are the same back to sometime in the past.  The VIN was not stamped on the engine, transmission, and various body parts until after the 1968 model year began.   Prior to that it was whatever the manufacturer wanted to do.  Same with the VIN locations on the instrument panel (1968) and the B pillar. 

Same with the old serial numbers and VIN.   There were no government rules and regulations and manufacturers did what they wanted, using whatever style they wanted and placing it on the body or chassis as they wanted.  GM of Canada was the first to use a VIN that had digits for the make, series, body styles, model year and plant in 1935.  Ford of Canada followed in 1946.  Ford in the U,S. used the engine number through 1948 with no unique chassis serial number.  In 1966 U.S. manufacturers started using a 13-digit VIN but it was not until 1981 that all manufacturers had to use the present 17-digit VIN. 

I have a big emotional, financial and time investment in trying to restore my DB to a condition as near stock as possible, and it was always my understanding that this was what this forum was about. I really don't appreciate street rodders. I think the stuff they do is dumb. I don't wish to insult Kevin, but I really feel that vehicles like his belong on a different kind of forum. I fail to understand why my years of studying DB history should go toward helping somebody build a SBC-powered street rod from one of our cars.  I have been trying since 1986 to correct every detail on my car in order to bring it back to original, and now I have to help someone destroy one of our cars?  I don't think so. I believe we should reiterate that this forum is about stock DB restorations.  Once we let the street rodders start leaching off of our hard-earned knowledge, watch out:  there will be nothing but street rod people on this forum. This is the only forum on the internet concerning the originality of DB cars; why can't we keep it that way?  Why do we have to apologize for being the kind of forum we are, just because a street rodder tries to lay a guilt trip on us?

'When I have the car sitting at a show and they are wondering what kind of car they are viewing it is not "Oh, this must be a 2014 Kevin B." What I hear is "Wow it is a Dodge" "Wow" I have never seen one done like this before. "How Cool".'

Yes, and John Wilkes Booth did the country a big favor by assassinating President Lincoln because so many people who had never had the opportunity to meet him in life got to view him in his casket.