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1949 Super Sedanette Wiring and Dash Restoration


Model56s

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I'm starting this thread to chronicle the renewal of the engine/instrument wiring harness and dash on my 49 Super Sedanette. I learned a lot in the process and want to pass some lessons along, plus pictures.

I was first infatuated with the looks of the 49 Buick sedanette sometime before 2005, which progressed to an emotional involvment, then obsession. It was an interesting emotional progression. After some false starts and the prerequisite conversation with my wonderful wife (I'd say that even if she had opposed my intent), I found this example online in mid-January 2012 and purchased it on Saturday, February 4, 2012. The car was in Pasadena, CA and I live in rural Missouri 40+ miles west of St. Louis. Fortunately, my brother Randy lives in SoCal. He researched the "street" value with his vintage car club members. He drove to Pasadena, inspected the car and accurately detailed the imperfections over the phone. Once he pronounced it good, he handed his phone to the owner (decent guy) with whom I concluded the deal in just over a minute. Intercity Lines provided excellent and reasonable service, delivering the car on Sunday, February 26, 2012. I was delighted driving it home from the lot where it was unloaded about 2 miles from my house.

<o:p> </o:p>

From time to time the headlights would just not come on and at other times the dome light would come on without provocation. When I replaced a speedo illumination bulb, I discovered the extent of the crumbling wiring insulation (akaFire Hazard), and of course the new bulb still was dark. I also discovered a disintegrating, unsanitary glovebox and was never happy with the rough finish on the dash and interior garnish.

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Edited by Model56s (see edit history)
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I decided to make up a new engine/instrument harness on my own, mostly to see if I was up to the task. I came very close to ordering a forward harness from Rhode Island Wiring. I also decided on removing the dash and interior garnish to have it repainted while I was at it. I started the project in March of this year.

I spent a couple weeks just looking at the harness, both in the engine compartment and under the dash (remove the seat bottom cusion!) and taking measurements. During that time, I downloaded the electrical system schematic from the Old Car Manual Project (my thanks and gratitude to those guys) and spent time studying it. On active duty in the Navy I was a sonar technician as a submarine crew member, so I understand basic electrical and electronic principles. Anyone attempting this should spend several weeks studying his car and its schematic. I took measurements and a friend donated lots of wire of all gauges for the project.

First, I removed the radio before removing the dash. I removed the interior windshield trim, exposing two separate lines of screws along the top edge of the dash at the cowl: one line attaching the defroster sheetmetal duct to the dash and the other attaching the dash to the cowl - the cowl screws are those closest to the windshield. It wasn't necessary to remove the duct screws.

Pictures: one of 5 dash cowl mounting screws, a duct mounting screw and one of the cowl screw bosses:

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Underneath, the dash is secured by 6 bolts: 2 bolts in lower corner braces at each end and a bolt each in two center braces that straddle the radio:

Below are the corner bolts on the driver side and one of the centers - radio is out. I removed the 2" defroster duct under the passenger side corner.

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One note I neglected to mention in my first post was something I though obvious – I removed the firewall access panel on the driver side. This allowed fair but critical access to gauge leads, speedo and fuse/patch panel on the driver side. It remained off for the duration of the project.<o:p></o:p>

I removed the cabin heat control rod attached to the Ranco valve – easy. It is just 2 screws and a tiny clip at the valve.<o:p></o:p>

I next removed the windshield wiper/washer control knob –just pulled the knob up. I removed the fender nut holding the mechanism and that was done.<o:p></o:p>

I made the decision to disconnect as much from the dash as possible, but I left the positron ventilation control cable "heads"attached to the housing holding the light switch, map light and cigar lighter. This meant that I had to remove the control handles – secured by a single set screw. Off they came,leaving the positron attached. I disconnected the other cable ends in the engine compartment and was able to pull them through the firewall, a good decision that saved labor. I disconnected the aforementioned housing holding the light switch etc. (4 reasonably accessible nuts) and the fuse/patch panel (2 very accessible bolts), leaving them to hang freely under the dash. Next were the speedo cable, gauge leads and unplugging the gauge illumination bulb sockets for the gauge housings. I left the oil pressure and temperature gauges connected to their kinetic inputs (brass or copper tubes) to be dealt with later; I let these two gauges remain behind when I pulled the dash. The three “small” gauges are secured to the dash with just two nuts.<o:p></o:p>

<o:p> </o:p>At this stage I removed the glove box, an unnecessary step either to get the dash out or to get at the 2" defroster duct. But the glovebox light had to be removed - just two screws securing it and I passed it up through a factory cut-out in the top of the box. I unclipped its lead from the defroster duct, leaving it attached to the light switch. It rested on the floor.<o:p></o:p>

I also removed the steering column mounting bracket and spacer at this point, also not necessary - its bracket is not part of the dash, but spot welded to the cowl instead.<o:p></o:p>

Next: speedo metal fairing, necessary to pull the speedo which comes out the front – all other gauges from the back. This is where removal of the access panel was critical. 6 nuts and spacers hold the fairing to the dash. With the speedo cable already removed, I disconnected the odometer reset cable at the base of the dash, unplugged the two illumination bulbs and “Brite Lites” indicator bulb, removed the three nuts holding the speedo to the dash and out she came. <o:p></o:p>

A very nice discovery: date stamps on the Speedo and clock! Both labeled February 1949 - February 2 for the speedo. As another datapoint for this, the body number is 948 (Kansas City):

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Final note for this post: Once their leads are disconnected, the speedo and fuel/ammeter can remain in the dash; I pulled them to minimize risk and minimize dash weight.

Clock in, clock removed, clock date stamp, speedo fairing removed, speedo date stamp, speedo fairing.

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Wiper control removal.

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Edited by Model56s (see edit history)
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Before I continue, I can't remove the "attached thumbnails" image above, which is inserted in each post. I'll try and figure that out.

Once all was removed, I removed the remaining screws holding the dash to the cowl and let it lean forward. I sat in the middle of the front seat supporting the dash with my knees and lifted the dash clear of the steering column. I then inched my way toward the passenger door and "delivered the baby".

Dash and wiper control head, with two hoses and positron cable attached.

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I re wired my '41 Roadmaster, but I used a harness from "Harnesses Unlimited", it was very good repro, but not cheap. I'll be looking forward to following your progress.

Keith

Keith,

Going with a commercial harness demonstrates superior judgement:p. How did the project go?

I appreciate your interest!

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John,

There is a lot of room once the dash is out, but little work is done in the car other than removal/installation...and troubleshooting.

This did offer a great opportunity to use the shop vac and clean up 65 years' worth of crumbling insulation and harness fabric and general dirt and dust. Also, I could see if there was any rust through - none! the metal was brown from very minor surface rust these structural pieces do not appear to have been painted. I don't believe that the dash was ever removed. The evidence is very strong that it was masked and painted in place.

Geoff

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That was my experience in doing my '41 also, the underside parts of the dash weren't painted. I of course sprayed some paint on them while I was in there! Perhaps not quite as authentic, and I know its' lasted this long without paint, but I think that it is better with a coat of paint. I don't know what the original reason for not painting these parts was, whether it was the cost of paint, or the labour to do it, or both. Over the hundreds of thousands of cars they built, saving an ounce or two of paint would of added up to quite a bit over time.

Plus I don't imagine that anyone who built these cars way back then would of thought that there would be people still trying to drive them, 60, 70+ years later.

Keith

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Keith,

the underside of my dash was not painted as well, and much of it was virgin grey steel, the rest being very minor surface oxidation. The car apparently spent no time in Florida or Central America! I have been told that if airborne moisture is not excessive and if there is no contact with water, the metal will not oxidize to any real extent, and my dash is a testament to that. I did not paint the underside of the dash.

More posts coming shortly.

Geoff

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.....Plus I don't imagine that anyone who built these cars way back then would of thought that there would be people still trying to drive them, 60, 70+ years later.....

Neither do I imagine that Buick thought that there would be people trying to troubleshoot their wiring problems 60 or 70+ years later, laying on the front floor with legs up and over the front seat and holding a flashlight with your chin.

Here's an idea for those who have their instrument panels pulled. Spend $5.00 and buy a rattle-can of white or a glow-in-the-dark paint and spray away. You and the next owner will thank me for this tip years from now. :o

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Al Malachowski

BCA #8965

"500 Miles West of Flint"

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Looking forward to your posts on the wiring part of the project. Been seriously contemplating making a harness myself as well, since like yours, subtle movement of the wiring causes the fabric shielding to crack or fall off. Doesn't appear to be overly difficult project. I'd probably leave my dash in place as it's either been already re-painted at some point, or survived very well. I think hardest part will be matching up all the connectors. I know RI Wire Harness, and the other RI-based wire guys, Narragansett something or other, both sell the supplies. It's got to be cheaper to make yourself than the $700 or so they're charging... I think only other part that wouldn't be "duplicatable" is the black harness jacketing that covers the wires where they are bundled together under the dash and thru the firewall. Mine appears to be more of a looser-woven mesh fabric than the available tight-woven "tube" fabric that's being sold. Please include lots of pics! Can't wait to follow-up.

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Neither do I imagine that Buick thought that there would be people trying to troubleshoot their wiring problems 60 or 70+ years later, laying on the front floor with legs up and over the front seat and holding a flashlight with your chin.

Here's an idea for those who have their instrument panels pulled. Spend $5.00 and buy a rattle-can of white or a glow-in-the-dark paint and spray away. You and the next owner will thank me for this tip years from now. :o

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Al Malachowski

BCA #8965

"500 Miles West of Flint"

Great idea! Why didn't I think of that?

Ben

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I am back from some travel this week and have a few moments to post. Al, great idea. Re: the 60+ years, I have often thought “for whom in the future am I doing this work?” I’d like to think for one or more of my 5 children.<o:p></o:p>

<o:p> </o:p>

Beerczar, making up your own harness is much cheaper and certainly can be done. If you’re going for “correct”, it’s no choice but to buy a repro. I subscribe to the “Do hard things” philosophy – you come out stronger if still standing. My costs included a little bit of 10 gauge wire (about 10 feet), connectors, solder, flux, fabric tape, cable ties – not much! As stated earlier, a friend in the automatic door business gave me lots of wire – they pitch the spools when they’re down to the last 50-75 feet since that’s not enough to make up the induction loops. Connectors: Buick made extensive use of 90 degree fork connectors – I chose to not reuse them, using new straight forks instead and eyes. I wanted to minimize splicing as I did reuse the bullet press-in connectors, employed mostly in thefuse/patch panel, and the dash bulb sockets, both requiring splicing. Here is the anatomy of the bulb socket and a close-up of the bullet type:<o:p></o:p>

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<o:p> </o:p>

For reuse: cut the lead, leaving about an inch of original wire, stripped of insulation. Slide shrink tube down the new wire, assemble the components onto the new wire and splice (solder) to the existing lead. When cool, slide the shrink tube onto the splice covering all exposed wire and apply heat.<o:p></o:p>

<o:p> </o:p>

You can see that the bullets are crimped at the tip by a task-specific machine at the factory. I used the same technique for them as above.<o:p></o:p>

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Edited by Model56s (see edit history)
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One item I neglected to cover during the dash removal was the ignition switch, a challenge. Buick took some effort at theft prevention by shielding the ignition switch connectors behind the dash, as well as the door latching mechanism. I first encountered this when I repaired the passenger door latch in early 2013 – Buick installed a sheet metal shield over the mechanism that appears to prevent any rod or slim jim inserted between glass and door from accessing the mechanism. “Stage Two” of this approach was a similar sheetmetal shield bolted just behind the switch, preventing access to the leads and the nuts holding the switch. As an additional precaution, they used one-way screws, the kind that can be tightened by not loosened.

Here’s the shield:

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I used a Dremel with a cut-off wheel to cut a slot in the one-way screws and removed the shield. Once the leads were removed and labeled and the dash was removed, I set about removing the ignition switch. The AACA forums provided the intel: turn the key fully clockwise (“Off” position) and insert a paper clip end into the tiny hole in the switch face. Pressing in on the paper clip depresses a spring-loaded detent, allowing the key to be further turned CW and out comes the tumbler. Two nuts on the back and the switch isfree from the dash.

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From gauge bulb illumination behavior I knew that there was a problem with the rheostat. Illumination occured only in a narrow 45-degree sector of rotation of the light switch knob, providing jumpy, on-again, off-again lighting.

When I removed the light switch, I immediately saw that one end of the resistance coil within the ceramic housing in the rheostat had become detached from the mounting rivet, creating an open circuit as the wiper was rotated away from the end:

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Plus, the ceramic, switch and terminals were filthy. After playing with it for some time, it was clear that the only way to fix the rheostat was to get the ceramic housing out of the switch. But to do that, the knob and shaft had to come out. But, how to remove the knob and shaft? I played with it for quite a while (breaking a stop in the ceramic trying to twist the knob off), until I saw the spring-loaded button on the side. Hmmm…. I decided to press it and pull the knob – the shaft came out. Why does it take me so long to see the obvious:

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I ground the crimped ends of the metal bracket holding the ceramic coil housing to the switch casing and removed it. I cleaned the switch and ceramic and was able to work the end of the coil under the rivet. I pulled it free again, applied a dab of JB Weld epoxy in the trough of the ceramic housing near the end of the coil and laid the coil back down on the epoxy, inserting the end under the rivet again. I replaced the metal bracket that secures the ceramic housing and everything was held fast. With the knob/shaft back in, I rotated the knob CCW to have the rheostat wiper press against the epoxied end to clamp it for curing. It is now solid.

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Now to the Buick’s nervous system – the first task was to disengage all engine compartment leads from their respective devices, labeling as I went: at the radiator bulkhead patch panels - headlight high and low beams, parking and turn signal bulbs and ventilation blower (passenger side); continuing back - field and armature leads on the generator, neutral safety and back up light switches and horn terminal (all on the steering column), dimmer switch, vacuum switch on the carb (used in the original layout to complete the starter relay circuit, now bypassed as is very common), voltage regulator and the connector for the passenger side harness trunk which brings the horn lead to that trunk; horn relay, then one to the coil and the remaining leads to the starter.

Photos:

Patch Panel (pass. side), neutral safety switch (to the left of the column), backup light switch (@ the two leads), vacuum switch and dimmer switch (removed & loose for access).

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Horn Relay, next to heater hose:

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I removed the metal retaining ring for the rubber grommet at the entry port in the firewall, destroyed the now-brittle grommet and began to pull the old harness through. I alternated between the cabin and engine compartment, guiding, feeding, unsnagging and babysitting until both trunks came through.

Firewall portal (with retainer ready to come off) and voltage regulator:

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I mounted the old harness, complete with the light switch housing and fuse/patch panel to an old hollow-core interior door:

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I wanted to keep the old harness sheathing on for archival purposes, but quickly decided to strip it to facilitate tracing the old wires and examining how they made the various wire junctions at the factory. The sheathing was very easy to remove, disintegrating as I parted it and pulled it off.

Years ago I made up a 4’ X 8’ platform consisting of a frame of 2X3s and a Masonite surface for a Rokenbach set my brother Randy gave my boys when they were very young. This platform now became the surface for making up the new harness. I was always fascinated with pictures of WW2 aircraft production and the work making up the aircraft wiring harness. I wanted to replicate that methodology. I installed screws at each position where the harness takes a sharp turn in order to replicate the "topography" of the harness – here’s the start of the first lead run, and then near the finish line. The passenger side trunk is to the left.

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PROCESS: I started with the passenger side radiator bulkhead patch panel (furthest forward - lights and blower leads), one at a time, and progressed down the main trunk. Here's how: I positioned a loolely secured cable tie at each screw to accept the runs. I would go to the original harness, trace the particular lead (both ends were labeled during removal), compare the continuity with the schematic (if different, schematic wins), measure length and position for branch if applicable, and then cut the respective gauge wire to length. The relative position of the branch (ie the 2 leads off to the generator and the 3 off to the dimmer switch, etc.) was critical for a successful installation later. I would then attach the terminals (crimp and solder and shrink tube), label each end at that moment, run the lead through the cable ties positioned at the screw at each bend. As the trunk grew with new leads, I would tame the trunk with more cable ties between bends, a little loose to permit more runs. When things got tight in the cable ties I would have to cut and replace them - they're cheap! Eventually I had cable ties positioned about every 10 inches, less if circumstances like branches and rebellious leads dictated, keeping them somewhat loose but always labeling both ends of the new lead just after attaching the terminals. Did I mention that I labeled each end of each run? I cannot emphasize this step enough - I would forget the results of a continuity test not 2 minutes afterward. This prompted me to keep a detailed journal of the continuity tests, listing the lead terminals, matching their terminology to that used in the schematic (ie Neutral Safety Switch, Vacuum Switch, Position 4 on the light switch, etc.).

Pictures below: A detail of the labeling and the reuse of the bullet terminals and bulb sockets. The bulb socket with the three leads is for the left turn signal indicator. When I saw later that some insulation inside the socket had come off exposing bare wire, I ended up redoing these connections by stripping the old insulation completely ensuring that the shrink tube went to the furthest extent on each wire inside the socket. I redid the connections on the right signal bulb in this manner.

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One final note I neglected to mention earlier: I used the bag and tag method for all fasteners, terminals for re-use, sockets and devices removed, greatly facilitating reinstallation.

Next up: Trial installation.

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Concur. Good notes. Was a bit confused when you mentioned doing continuity tests, but I'm thinking this is for the areas where you re-used the bullet connectors/bulb sockets and made splices... I didn't realize that a special machine put those connectors on. One of my yet to be re-mounted back-up lights is missing the bullets; I thought they just crimped on. Hadn't ordered new ones yet as I had to double-check to get the right size. Will watch for more posts and will be interested to see how easily the bundle of spaghetti goes back in the car! :) I might stick with some of the underhood wiring first and try to do the wires that only go from one component to the other and see how that goes.

Also, definitely interested in seeing if your headlight switch works after the epoxy is applied. I've had all kinds of trouble with mine, since unlike in '49, the switch starting with '50 not only controls the headlights and dims the dash lights, it also run the Map Lights. I tried re-attaching my rheostat wire, but it ended up cooking thru again almost immediately at the rivet. Also doesn't help when there's two separate 16g White wires going to the switch that perform two totally different functions (1 for Front Turn Signals/Parking Lights, and the 2nd for the Map Lights)!

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One feature I'd always recommend to all classic car owners: Make your head lights relay driven. This way the headlight switch does not get all the current that is heating it up due to 70 years of extra resistance, it also allows you to use heavier lights safely and the amount of light coming out of your bulbs will increase dramatically. So it's safer at night and against dash fires (which could burn down the whole car).

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Beer,

I ran (and re-ran) continuity tests on each lead on the original harness and noted the "origin" and "destination" of the lead, then compared that with the schematic. And yes, also to test the connections on the new harness. Business travel, coming home tired from work, competing family, household and property needs meant that I spread the work from from early April to mid-August making up the new harness. It is possible to make up a new harness in a matter of days. As a result, when I would return to the project after, say, 2 weeks' absence I would have to re-orient myself. I would revisit the new harness leads and test continuity again, noting the labels as well as comparing to the original harness. This was tedius, and a professional would probably shake his head at the extra effort, but I tempered my impatience by always compared the convenience of working at an open table to troubleshooting melted insulation from under the dash. The table always won and impatience lost...remember also, I had never re-wired a car before.

My suggestion to Wilf: Before starting, set up a journal to track your tests and runs in order to avoid having to go back to re-confirm your work. Also, when you cut the new run, take it to the car and route it to double check - a 5 minute process that builds confidence. Again, this work does not have to take more than a couple weeks.

This is where knowledge of good project management principles would have served me well had I adopted them early on - tracking and logging progress in order to avoid re-work would have saved much time had I adopted it earlier in the process.

Thanks for following this thread,

Geoff

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As I was completing the harness, I arranged for Rick's Auto Body of Harvester, Missouri to paint the dash and all interior metal pieces. I won't even bother with any other body shop - this is a family-owned business and they reflect it. Immaculate shop, great attitude and their work on my wife’s car was flawless. Body shops are set up for volume production, mostly insurance work. To bring piecework to such a place is a hassle for them. It's the same in the software services business that I have been in since 1981 - small scale work injects what we call "friction" into the process - it requires labor (actual work, scheduling, billing/administrative) that can be expended on a higher-billing job, but the billing is small. With this in mind, I did not look forward to hauling my iron over to them to get a quote.

But, they gave me a quote for a very good price with the caveat that they'd work my stuff in when they could. No problem! For you purists, forgive me but I selected the color of my 528i – BMW’s Space Grey Metallic. I picked up my finished dash and 14 other separate pieces three weeks later, and they were beautiful. But then...

The dash and parts were home a week when I discovered the ash tray in the old glove box sitting on the work bench! I brought the ash tray (piece #16) to them the next morning and picked it up the following week. I was not charged anything. Here's a teaser of the dash (with the clock in):

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Once the new harness was as complete as I could determine, I bundled it up and took it to the car for a trial fit. At this stage it is held together by cable ties which are not snug, enabling pulling and tugging to align leads with terminal posts. I was very concerned about the branches and for good reason, as I'll describe shortly. The harness begins at the radiator bulkhead which has a 1" hole on each side through which it passes - lights and blower on the passenger side and lights on the driver side. The process was to insert the very end of the harness (5 passenger side leads plus labels) into the hole in the bulkhead on the driver side, pull it through enough for the passenger side lights and blower leads to reach across the front of the radiator and through the hole on that side and to the patch panel. My concern was tearing the tape labels off during this process, but they survived.

Returning to the driver side I attached one lead to the patch panel to fix the harness, then brought the harness down to the clip on the driver side ventilation plenum/box (BTW, what is that box called?). Each set of leads branching off (generator (2), column switches & horn lead (5), dimmer switch (3)) was then run to the respective device. Here is where I discovered that a couple of the leads were not measured and cut to proper length, but not so short that I couldn't use as is. The difficulty is that splices to other branches restrict the amount of adjustments that can be made - pulling one lead to better reach the dimmer caused the lead to the headlight (low beam in this case) to be short. As I said, I was able to make the connections work, just not as pretty as I wanted. Honestly, by spreading this work over 4 months I was not willing to cut new leads and make up new branches. I never took a new lead to the car for a trial fit, relying on measurements from the original harness mounted next to my work surface. When I redo the rear harness, I won't make this mistake.

I continued up the firewall to the voltage regulator - those were OK - and the firewall port. I stuffed both the passenger side branch (starter, horn, coil) and main trunk through the firewall (the labels here were a real problem as there were at least two dozen) and brought the leads to where I figured the tie-in would be: fuse/patch panel, light switch housing, gauges. No problem with those. I regret not taking pictures of this process.

I then tightened the cable ties to fix the adjustments and removed the harness to set it aside in order to turn-to on the disintegrating glove box.

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The original glove box is made of paper card stock, about 1/8th inch thick. Buick die-cut the card stock, glued a very light-colored flannel material to it, folded it and stapled it together. They then attached small sheet metal bosses around the outside of the front perimeter into which sheet metal screws from inside the compartment would bite to secure the box to the dash.

Since plywood is tougher and can take the mounting screws directly, I decided to make the replacement from 1/8th inch birch plywood (actually 3/32nd) from the local hobby shop, sold in 1X2 foot sheets. I used a yard of grey flannel from Jo-Ann Fabrics and delay-set spray Lock-tite adhesive. I chose a darker shade of flannel than the original to not show dirt too easily and go well with the new color of the dash.

I traced the sides, top, bottom and end of the old box onto the plywood and cut the pieces and assembled the box using 3M clear double backed tape with some outside corner wood trim at two sites on each edge- they fit pretty well after edge sanding. I wanted to see no gaps and absolutely straight seams when I opened the glove box door. After not a lot of work, I was ready to cut and glue the flannel to the pieces.

Here are the patterns laid out on the plywood, cut, and trial fit; tape & corner piece:

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I had to decide to either cut the flannel for each piece, glue the fabric to each wood piece and then assemble, or “hinge” the wood pieces together with tape laid out, and apply one large sheet of flannel, then fold and final tape - I decided on individual pieces. I disassembled the box and glued the flannel pieces to each, then reassembled using the 3M clear double backed tape and corner wood trim. I pulled and trimmed the flannel from the outside of each seam and secured all edges with aluminum duct tape.

Here’s the result:

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Next came the cleaning of the gauges/instruments, an easy and very rewarding process.

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Edited by Model56s (see edit history)
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Buick inserted a spacer/gasket of some sort of flexible material between the stainless steel bezel and the glass crystal of the instruments/gauges. Over time, this material hardened and “bled” onto the glass. In pictures of unrestored ‘49s I’ve seen it encroach as much as ½ to ¾ inch around the glass. All gauges were assembled using the same type of components: a stainless bezel, the gasket/spacer, glass, an aluminum spacer ring and gauge face over the front of the gauge body, secured by crimping the edge of the bezel. All gauge glass had the same gasket bleeding. For this post, I am showing the clock and ammeter/temp gauge.

Removing the bezel was easy, but required care. The crimps in the edge of the bezel were straightened using a plain end screwdriver and needle nose pliers, and the bezel came off revealing the fouled glass.

Here are the components - notice the slot and tab used to align the metal parts and face, and where the crimps were on the edge of the bezel; the clock before cleaning; interior of the ammeter/temp gauge:

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Since the bezel holds the glass, gauge face and ring to the instrument body, I was able to lift those three components off.

I found the faces clean, so I didn’t have to do anything there. The gasket material turned out to be water soluble, so soaking the bezel in hot water for 10 minutes cleaned out what of the gasket I couldn’t dig out. The glass cleaned up nicely with warm water & dish soap and a razor. I replaced the gasket with two small pieces of rubber eraser cut to size. If the gasket is not replaced, the glass will rattle.

Here are the gauges cleaned and installed:

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Edited by Model56s (see edit history)
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The gauges with kinetic inputs are the oil pressure and temperature gauges. The oil pressure transmitting tube can be removed from gauge. I was concerned that air would get into the tube and corrupt the reading after installation, but that wasn't a problem. The most difficult gauge was the temperature gauge because of the need to remove the bulb from the engine head, plus, the tube cannot be disconnected from the gauge. I found that the bulb was stuck fast in the head, but I got it loose by gentle prying with a flat screw driver on each side until I got some movement.

I forgot the warning I had read about the flow of antifreeze when the bulb pops out. Have a rubber stopper ready. Something. Anything :eek:.

Once the gauges were back in the dash, along with the chrome trim - radio grille and switch end trim pieces and duct, it was time to start getting things back together.

I decided to attach the wiring to the gauges and switches in the dash and bring the whole assembly (including positron cables, temp gauge and oil pressure gauge tubes) into the car and feed the ends into the firewall portals.

This is the bulb that fits in the head above spark plug #8. Notice the threads on the nut – maybe someone can explain why they are machined flat at several places around the nut. Because of these flat sides, the securing nut was very hard to start in the threads in the head without cross threading. It took half an hour to get it in right.

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Here’s the defroster duct during the removal and disassembly process – I reinstalled it last to facilitate attaching the harness to the gauges and switches:

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I attached the leads according to the labels (that's a patient character in the background):

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Once the leads were attached, I began the process of wrapping the harness in fabric tape, securing the tape every 6-10 inches. I had read that the best wrapping tape is vinyl without adhesive – engine heat vaporizes the adhesive over time and the tape unravels, which is what I found with my car. I used the cable ties to keep the tape in place. I chose yellow ties to contrast with the black tape.

Done, with positron cables attached, and the location of the handle set screws (the ignition switch is installed upside down here, since corrected:

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This is where I would have been wise to run a final continuity check, with a battery and light bulbs. I didn't, figuring my tests previously were sufficient. They were not. Use this opportunity to test the operation of the switches, leads and look for shorts.

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Edited by Model56s (see edit history)
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I wrapped the dash in bubble wrap & brought it into the car. I got the ends of the positron cables and the two harness trunks started through the three firewall ports: The main port next to the voltage regulator takes the two harness trunks, the smaller port below on the driver side takes the ventilation positron and vacuum lines for the washer bottle & pump (the speedo cable shares this port) and the third, a small port in the upper section of the firewall nearer to the driver side and horn relay, which is mainly for the temperature gauge and oil pressure gauge tubes. Next, I lifted the dash with my knees over the steering column and settled it in, removing the bubble wrap.

No scratches!

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Attaching the dash to the cowl was a real challenge – the dash flexes and lining up the screw holes while supporting the dash takes care and patience. To do it again I would have a helper. I tightened the cowl screws only when I got all six started. If you’re doing this on a ’49 dash, note the alignment of the speedo bezel over the steering column. There is enough play in the bezel to provide a fine adjustment of position to center everything.

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Alternating between the engine and passenger compartments I worked the harness through. Another major challenge was organizing everything under the dash - the harness, positron cables and the two vacuum lines feeding the wiper control. These had to be worked around the radio compartment and radio brackets. All I can say is take your time and don’t be afraid to pull something back out to re-route. The main considerations are to provide the positrons with as direct a path as you can, avoid binding wires and protect the wires from sharp edges. Eventually, I got things routed.

Here are the trunks coming through the port:

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At this point I noticed that I forgot to order the firewall grommets. No problem, it will take about an hour to retrofit them later.

Once the harness trunks were through, I attached everything in the engine compartment according to the labels.

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Next came the windshield trim: 5 pieces which include the two main “C” shaped halves, the vertical piece and two end caps for the vertical piece. These are very difficult to get in place and align – all the while I was thinking of the Buick line workers. I suppose that if you do this 8 hours each day, you must get a feel for this and it becomes second nature. Maybe. Maybe not.

Start with the two main pieces and get them in place first, then the vertical center piece. Finding the holes in the area around the windshield for the trim screws is the most difficult task I encountered.

I took this time to attach all the other trim pieces I had painted, again from time to time having trouble aligning trim screws. I used 8X¾, 8X1 and 10X1 stainless oval head trim screws from Lowes. These lengths reflect the variation in distance to mounting holes.

Once everything was in, I committed my first real mistake: Before attaching the battery, check the positive battery cable for a short to ground. This is probably old news to most of you, but I got my lesson. I attached the two battery cables and immediately got the smell of burning plastic and about that time wisps of white smoke started coming from the opening where the access panel was to be attached – off came the negative cable! The lead to the fuel gauge had gotten hot and melted the insulation where it was exposed.

I disconnected the lead and went back to the battery to check for a short between the positive battery cable and ground – none.

I connected the battery cables, turned the ignition switch on and hit the starter. The car started after enough cranking to get fuel into the carb. What a sweet sound! It took 10 minutes to install the radio.

Turn signals, headlights, taillights and dash lights all worked, and no more smoke. I think the dimmer switch was part of the problem, which had given me trouble before, so I replaced it (O’Reilly Auto Parts). I still have to trace the fuel gauge lead short, probably this weekend.

For the first time since March, I got the 49 back on the road:

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