Anyone know these two pre-war Buicks?

Mecum will be auctioning off two pre-war Buicks and I was curious if anyone is familiar with either car. Or, if you have an opinion about them based on what you see in the pictures, I'd appreciate that as well.

https://www.mecum.com/lot-detail.cfm?lot_id=CH1014-195846

https://www.mecum.com/lot-detail.cfm?lot_id=CH1014-195745

Thanks

Are you interested as a collector/investor, trophy hunter, or driver?

Good question Mark. Primarily, I'm interested in buying a car as a driver. I love driving my '30, but the pace of modern traffic can make it a scary proposition. A longer term goal is to do the Great Race, but that's more of a bucket-list thing then an actual plan.

I think anyone buying a pre-war car as an investment will likely be disappointed in the return. Because of this, any car I buy needs to be past the project stage because I'm just not willing to pour money into it. I want to own a car that I can be proud of, so it has to have nice paint. But it can't be so nice that I'll be afraid to drive it, park it and walk away. So "show quality" cars need not apply. The ideal for me is an older restoration. My bogey is a '38 Phaeton, but I'll compromise if the price is good on something else.

Any thoughts you have would be appreciated.

Are you interested as a collector/investor, trophy hunter, or driver?

If you put an over-drive in in your 30 Coupe I think you'll find it would quite easily keep up with modern traffic. It would be much less costly too. But on the other hand who doesn't want another car?

Dave

It's not the keeping up that's an issue, it's the long stopping distance that's scares me. I can't tell you how many times I've been driving along with traffic, keeping a safe following distance, only to have someone cut in front of me and brake hard. Motorists who have not driven an old car simply cannot comprehend the limitations.

Dave, I'm curious, what's the fastest you feel comfortable in your car? I'd say 45MPH is about it for me. (Though i've gone 55 for short periods).

If you put an over-drive in in your 30 Coupe I think you'll find it would quite easily keep up with modern traffic. It would be much less costly too. But on the other hand who doesn't want another car?

Dave

In addition to stopping distance, the other thing that is troubling is the long pause when shifting from 1st to 2nd. It feels like an eternity waiting for the gears to align, so I can't help but worry about being rear-ended.

If you put an over-drive in in your 30 Coupe I think you'll find it would quite easily keep up with modern traffic. It would be much less costly too. But on the other hand who doesn't want another car?

Dave

I keep the brakes on my 28 adjusted and they stop the car very well. If the road is wet I increase the stopping distance and yes people cut in front of me. But what can you do? When they do cut in I just back off a little more. If its raining I get off the interstate.

Call me crazy but I routinely drive my car 55 mph, occasionally 60. On flat highways it will do 65, but its hard on the top. It is steady as a rock. Hey, the manufacturer claims it's good for 65-70, but even I'm not that crazy. All this is possible because of the overdrive. Without that at 55 the engine is pretty wound up so I don't like going 55 in regular 3rd gear for sustained periods too hard on the engine. I do have a LED high brake light mounted in the back window, nice and bright.

However by 1936 and certainly by 37 I think Buicks really moved into the modern age. All the basic systems were in place that carried the industry through to the early 70s, so in that sense I understand the desire for mid-late 30s car. I want one too it's just not in the cards for now.

One thing though if you do buy something like one of these two you will probably want to change the gears in the rear anyway and of the two I like the 37 Century better; quieter and more power. If you want to do highway cruising a closed car would be preferable, imho.

Dave

To keep up with modern traffic the smaller series Buick will disappoint you if it has the original differential gears. However the Roadmaster would be just fine. I can drive my '38 Roadmaster easily at 70 (sometimes a bit more) and It will stop just fine if you consider you are driving a tank that is near 5000#. It requires that you respect the cars limitations. Any old cars limitations.

I appreciate your concern about "cut ins". I live in one of the most congested areas in the country and I still drive the cars in traffic - since you recognize the problem, you have to antricipate and expect them.

I dont understand your shifting comment. The manual for my'18 Buick says "shift quickly". It doesnt mention any double clutching or any other tricks. The idea is to do it fast and not give the gears time to clash - and it works! (heresy?)

Any Buick after 1931 (mostly) will have synchromesh in #2 and #3, so that shifting wouldnt be a problem. They work pretty much like any modern car when shifting, save coming back into first on the way down.

All older cars have their liabilities. Perhaps, since I am old enough to have driven, daily, the cars we now call antiques, my experience makes the situation more tolerable.

I still enjoy the old crocks!

Buick64C says that in his opinion anyone who buys a pre-war car as an investment will likely be disappointed in the return. I disagree with him to a large degree. Look at the pre-war cars listed for sale in the ANTIQUE AUTOMOBILE or THE HORSELESS CARRIAGE GAZETTE publications and check out the asking prices. 85 to 100 thousand dollars for certain makes and body styles is not uncommon. I have always believed that original and well maintained cars will hold their value and appreciate over time. I also feel that the vast majority of enthusiasts are in this hobby because they genuinely enjoy the cars they are playing with and if the time comes that they have to dispose of the vehicles and they make some money from them, well, that's just icing on the cake. I like Don's comments about respecting the old vehicle you are driving. When I get behind the wheel of any of my cars the go-fast attitude is gone. Not with two wheel brakes Thank You.

Terry Wiegand

South Hutchinson, Kansas America

My 1934 Buick 34-57 is a SERIOUS HIGHWAY CRUISER and a fantastic TOUR/DRIVER.

It came from the factory with vacuum-assisted power brakes, and steering is light and precise. It cruises easily at 60 - 65 mph and more since Lloyd Young prepared a new rear-end (we still have a correct original) with a 30% Borg-Warner Overdrive. When ndoing 60, the engine thinks we are doing 42 mph, and the brakes are more than up to the job

After 12 years of touring, it was restored as a driver, but has been awarded AACA Grand National Senior status.

Now I'm again giving serious thought to selling the '34 due to my age, and having more cars than I can justify maintaining.

Of course my price will likely be unrealistically high due to the quality of the car, but IT NEEDS ABSOLUTELY NOTHING in order to be enjoyed. ...and will likely be lower than these auction specials which frequently have hidden surprises.

[quote name=Marty Roth;

Of course my price will likely be unrealistically high due to the quality of the car' date=' but IT NEEDS ABSOLUTELY NOTHING in order to be enjoyed. ...and will likely be lower than these auction specials which frequently have hidden surprises.

Same here! I can think of no better reason to put what some might call an unrealistic price on a car. Each of mine has an unpublished price and it would make many stutter.

On the daily drive ability of older cars, in general, is a part of the original basis of design. Steering, stopping, reliability, and durability in our cars was the highest of the time. Most accidents I see involve two cars of fairly new vintage. From observation driving a newer car would put one at a greater risk.

One-Two shifting lag? Take off in second.

Today we will take the '60 Electra over a couple of towns for lunch. Even though it is about twenty years newer than the two auction cars There are people horrified by the drum brakes, single piston master cylinder, and a no list of other things that need to be modified. Of course, I always pay attention to what their car is, if they have one.

Bernie

The manual for my '30 doesn't tell you to do anything special. I've always double clutched and waited for the gear speeds to match. That's the way my father taught me many years ago. If i try to rush the shift, I get a grinding noise. The ratio difference between 1st and 2nd is pretty big, so I have to wait for the engine speed to drop.

I dont understand your shifting comment. The manual for my'18 Buick says "shift quickly". It doesnt mention any double clutching or any other tricks. The idea is to do it fast and not give the gears time to clash - and it works! (heresy?)

Any Buick after 1931 (mostly) will have synchromesh in #2 and #3, so that shifting wouldnt be a problem. They work pretty much like any modern car when shifting, save coming back into first on the way down.

I agree with everything you say about the hobby up until now. I also believe in the law of supply and demand. So my question for you is this; who will be buying pre-war cars 10 years from now? I go to a lot of car events, and I don't see a new generation of buyers. I do see a quite a few older collectors selling their cars. When sellers out-number buyers, prices go down. It's like gravity, there's no avoiding it over the long run. I wish this wasn't the case with the pre-war market, because I'd like my car to appreciate. I just recognize that's not likely.

Buick64C says that in his opinion anyone who buys a pre-war car as an investment will likely be disappointed in the return. I disagree with him to a large degree. Look at the pre-war cars listed for sale in the ANTIQUE AUTOMOBILE or THE HORSELESS CARRIAGE GAZETTE publications and check out the asking prices. 85 to 100 thousand dollars for certain makes and body styles is not uncommon. I have always believed that original and well maintained cars will hold their value and appreciate over time. I also feel that the vast majority of enthusiasts are in this hobby because they genuinely enjoy the cars they are playing with and if the time comes that they have to dispose of the vehicles and they make some money from them, well, that's just icing on the cake. I like Don's comments about respecting the old vehicle you are driving. When I get behind the wheel of any of my cars the go-fast attitude is gone. Not with two wheel brakes Thank You.

Terry Wiegand

South Hutchinson, Kansas America

About shifting.. Read what Buick says. Read the whole thing. It works.

.

SAE 250 Gear Oil helps too....

I have found that shifting quickly, that is before the car has gained much speed, results in the smoothest gear shifts. The power in cars up to the early/mid thirties was at lower rpm than later on. Kind of like driving a tractor. I'm in third by about 15 or 20 mph and once in third there is no need to change unless climbing a steep hill. If I try to wind it out and then shift there is mucho gear grinding and as Bernie said you can start in second. The slightest down hill incline and I can start in second and it works well.

Back to the original question, which car?: I think a 37 Century is really a short wheelbase Roadmaster more than it is big Special. I believe it is all big car running gear and suspension. As Don said, it will do better keeping up. So, as I said, my vote is with the Century.

Also want to second what Marty said about Lloyd Young and the Borg-Warner overdrive. He did mine and I love it. Totally transformed the driving experience, not just because it increased the cruising speed but also when driving at lower speeds too. At 30 or 40 drop it into overdrive and everything calms down, ahh. If you need more power just stab the clutch once and your back in regular third.

Dave

I agree with Dave. The Century is the car for driving and no overdrive is needed for the Century to keep up.