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'29 DA sending unit


Bob Zetnick

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I've tried to load photos, but says they are too large although I've posted photos before at twice the size. Anyway, I just took off the sending unit on my '29 and have some questions.

1) Gears are stuck (old gasoline) and wonder if just soaking in liquid wrench is okay...I think they might be pot metal....not sure.

2) There is an electric winding ...thin copper wire wrapped around a tapered piece of board?...then lacquered? Is this something one can rework?

3) There is a sleeve that rotates in the top (coincides w/ gear in tank)...it looks like something should be in that sleeve that makes contact with the wire?

4) I see cork at Myers for the float, but also a composite material.....I've read where you can seal the cork w/ something?

5) Is this something a novice should attempt or should I send it to a professional....if I should send it out does anyone have recommendations?

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It looks like the sender works as an electromagnetic pickup. You would need to wind the same number of turns with the same diameter wire to duplicate it. The wire is probably lacquered. The core is an insulating material, perhaps sandwiched around iron. If it is mica, be vary careful with it so it doesn't fall to pieces. I'll see what Dykes says....

I can't make much of the photos coz they are out of focus, but it looks like the gears are pot metal. Depending on its composition, it often swells over time, resulting in splitting. (You might find this happening in your speedo body, resulting in it nipping up on the shaft inside and breaking the cable. Mine did. It also causes the key lock in the door to become hard to operate as the door handle swells and the lock hole becomes smaller.) There is also probably a bit of rust on the shaft mounts that is preventing turning. Be gentle with those gears. 50-50 ATF and acetone is an excellent penetrating lubricant. Note that some (many?) so-called penetrating oils are actually a wax in a solvent and once the solvent evaporates there is not much lubrication. Be careful with vinegar on the pot metal.

My cork floats are (well, were) coated in shellac, most of which has flaked off. Some of those flakes stuck in the carburettor float valve. Grrr. Gas tank sealant sounds like a good idea for them.

Edited by Spinneyhill (see edit history)
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You could try this company.

Atwater Kent Manufacturing Co

12 Jacques St Worcester MA

(508) 792-9500

They used to have a web site but I can't find it now. They rebuilt gas tank gauges as part of the business and the charge was in the area of like $150.00 per unit as I recall. They had a couple week turnaround time.

His new web site is, I think, http://www.mykmlifestyle.com/Antique_Automotive_Parts.html

My experience with one of his senders was not as satisfactory as I would have liked. At the least, I'd can the period correct shellac sealed cork and use a modern float. I have read repair procedures for that wire wound style sending unit (the basic concept has been in use for many, many decades on many, many makes of cars), things like http://www.mgaguru.com/mgtech/electric/fg110.htm As mentioned earlier in this thread you need to know the resistance range your dash unit is expecting.

I don't know about the '29 Dodge but the equivalent year Plymouth has the sending unit exposed for view, so you might seriously consider repairing your original as the replacements I've seen look a bit different and could detract from the car. At least when viewed by a knowledgable person, like maybe a marque knowledgeable show judge.

If you sender is not visible then there is a chance you can get something suitable cobbled together using a modern generic sender. This is what I did: http://www.ply33.com/Repair/fuelsender2.html

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Thanks for all the info....yes, I did see Myers sells the gears for the unit.....the unit is visible and I'd like to keep it original as possible...I can clean things up and put a new float on it, but the wiring is what threw me....thanks for all the vendors names and I figured maybe $150-$200 to have it reworked.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Thanks....I think my gears will be fine once cleaned (fingers crossed), but it's the upper part of the unit w/ the tapered, lacquered wire assembly that's really rusty that I think requires more expertise than I have. BTW, do you remember having castellated nuts w/ cotter pins on your rear wheels?

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I'm pretty sure the windings need to be exposed (not insulated) where the "brush" contacts it...Mine wasn't too bad, and I checked it with an ohm meter and it seemed fine...Keep in mind that it is installed back in the tank, but has not seen any gas or power yet, so I don't really know how successful my restoration really was....post-97557-143142746598_thumb.jpgYes on the castle nut question...And thanks, that reminds me, I have to remember to install the cotter pins!

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