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Car Stops


TNtc

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For about two weeks now I have been having an issue and I am not sure what it is.

I can be driving the car and it will die while driving. After I pull over put the car in park it will start back up. The last couple of times it has been hard to start back up but eventually it did. I have the 1989 with the 2.4 Turbo 3 spd auto. was wondering if it was fuel injector or is it something else.

Look forward to your comments and help.

Thanks

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For about two weeks now I have been having an issue and I am not sure what it is.

I can be driving the car and it will die while driving. After I pull over put the car in park it will start back up. The last couple of times it has been hard to start back up but eventually it did. I have the 1989 with the 2.2L Turbo 3 spd auto. was wondering if it was fuel injector or is it something else.

Look forward to your comments and help.

Thanks

On turbocharged cars there are two flat cables with three conductors. These come out of the distributor where the HEP is located. I would suspect the Hall Effect Plate which is located under your distributor rotor. They will often not give a code. Suspect it anyway. One way to see the problem, is to watch your tachometer and notice if the needle DROPS from a steady rpm reading as you maintain a steady speed on the road. Also, as the plate malfunctions, the tachometer will drop to 0 the instant the engine dies.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Try this again, for some reason it did not post.

Thanks for all of the input. Here is what has taken place so far.

After running the codes it showed all clear. After disconnecting the battery and then hooking it back up the following two codes showed up. Code 11 and Code 12.

When placing the key in the "on" position known of the idiot lights come and can not hear the fuel pump. However place the turn signal in the left position the lights come on, you can hear the fuel pump and the car starts (sometimes, about 1 out of 3 tries). Place the turn signal in the right position and nothing happens.

The blue wire on the 14pin connector is not getting power.

Following Mr. Hemi Dude's advise we are replacing the HEP. As the car was acting as he stated in the above post.

Is there anything else that I should check?

Thanks in advance.

PS Some time back I posted that my speedo was working on and off. I have replaced the cogs in the dash. Someone said that I needed to check something on the transmission and that it was on the left side. I have misplaced that information. would someone tell me what it is again please.

Thanks

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PS Some time back I posted that my speedo was working on and off. I have replaced the cogs in the dash. Someone said that I needed to check something on the transmission and that it was on the left side. I have misplaced that information. would someone tell me what it is again please.
That would be the "Distance Sensor" which is inserted into the right side output shaft housing of the transaxle. A bad connection of the wire terminal can cause intermittent speedometer operation. Carefully close (squeeze) the 2 round female connectors so they fit tighter on the 2 terminal studs in the sensor.

If this does not correct the problem, replace the sensor.

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Try this again, for some reason it did not post.

Thanks for all of the input. Here is what has taken place so far.

After running the codes it showed all clear. After disconnecting the battery and then hooking it back up the following two codes showed up. Code 11 and Code 12.

When placing the key in the "on" position known of the idiot lights come and can not hear the fuel pump. However place the turn signal in the left position the lights come on, you can hear the fuel pump and the car starts (sometimes, about 1 out of 3 tries). Place the turn signal in the right position and nothing happens.

The blue wire on the 14pin connector is not getting power.

Following Mr. Hemi Dude's advise we are replacing the HEP. As the car was acting as he stated in the above post.

Is there anything else that I should check?

Thanks in advance.

PS Some time back I posted that my speedo was working on and off. I have replaced the cogs in the dash. Someone said that I needed to check something on the transmission and that it was on the left side. I have misplaced that information. would someone tell me what it is again please.

Thanks

Code 12 is telling you that you recently cleared all codes and from what you just described Code 11 probably won't have anything to do with what usually gives you that code. Sounds like you need to pull your wheel and turn signal switch and check for pinched wires and insulation scrapes to bare wire inside the steering column. A good bright mini mag flashlight will help you see if there is anything shiny inside that shouldn't be, what works the best for looking down the column is that stupid looking thing doctors used years ago to look down your throat, but odds are you don't have one of those.

If you don't find wire showing through insulation, check your ignition lock actuator rod and switch adjustment. Turn switch has nothing to do with fuel pump and idiot lights, but it does move and with that happening somethings not right inside your column.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Well we put in a new HEB that took care of that issue. And put in a new Distance Sensor and that took care of the speedo/Odometer not working. (Sorta).

I am still having the same problem just not as often. I can be driving along and the spedo/Odo just stop working and then out of the blue it starts working again. No rhyme, reason or consistence about it.

Any thoughts?

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Well we put in a new HEB that took care of that issue. And put in a new Distance Sensor and that took care of the speedo/Odometer not working. (Sorta).

I am still having the same problem just not as often. I can be driving along and the spedo/Odo just stop working and then out of the blue it starts working again. No rhyme, reason or consistence about it.

Any thoughts?

Sounds like a bad wire connection and the big question is where????

If you didn't touch anything inside the dash to make the spedo start working and all you did was replace the speed sensor, I would start looking at the speed sensor connector and then the connections to the connector and work my way back. Electrics on things that live in the elements like ships, air planes and cars, can be as much an art form or mysticism as it is a science and technical skill. If this is what it could be, it could be a two man job to find it and the easiest way I can suggest to eliminate the most probable location is to spray some brake cleaner inside the wire harness plug connector to the speed sensor and bend the female pin connects a little tighter. If that doesn't take care of the problem you will need a second pair of hands.

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