Drivetrain removal Questions???? 1927 Studebaker Dictator (Standard Six) Project

I am going to be helping a friend remove the drivetrain from a 1927 Studebaker Dictator shortly. Neither of us has done this before. I am hoping someone with experience on this site can point out some tips and tricks or even the obvious so we can remove the engine, wheels and axles etc with as little damage as possible. I will be using the drivetrain on a 1926 Standard Six coupe while he will be hot rodding his 1927 Dictator. His had already been turned into a pickup style truck decades ago so he will keep that look. Here are some photo of what we will tackle shortly. Any info is greatly appreciated

Remove the radiator cross braces and undo the two bolts under the radiator. Tilt the radiator forward and lift off the engine hood. Remove the radiator. Remove the front splash apron under the radiator. Remove the front motor mount bolts (4) and the two large bolts in front of the bell housing. Disconnect throttle linkage, exhaust pipe at manifold, fuel line and electrical wires. Remove floorboards and toe board. Remove driveshaft, Disconnect handbrake and foot brake. Remove the transmission from the engine. Lift engine out.

Incidentally, this is not a 1927 EU Dictator. All 27 Dictators have disc wheels because they all have 4 wheel brakes. This car has wood spoke wheels which only had two wheel brakes. Also the headlights are incorrect for 1927. It is a 1925 or 26 ER Standard 6. There should be a tag on the firewall under the hood (passenger's side) which will have ER on it.

Good luck with your project. Keep us informed.

Terry

Thank you Terry, I was wondering about the wooden wheels. I recall now that steel wheels started in 27 ish. Your teardown info is a great help. We plan to preserve as much as possible. I won't find another donor vehicle this close to home again.

Pete

Removing the front axle is easy since the car has no front brakes. Disconnect the steering drag link at the spindle, undo the spring u-bolts and drop the axle out with the wheels attached or undo the spindle nuts and remove the wheels first. It may have spring loaded snubbers mounted on the frame which are connected to the front axle by a fabric strap or a 3/8 inch steel cable. These should be in a neutral position (slight tension). The spring becomes tensioned when the axle drops.

Alternatively, remove the spring eye and shackle bolts and remove the axle and springs as a unit.

The rear axle is similar. Disconnect brake rods and driveshaft. Undo spring to frame bolts and remove. Removing the rear wheels from the axle requires a hub puller that screws onto the hub cap threads.

Terry

Hi Terry, we pulled the engine & transmission today. It came out easily. All the bolts came off without a hitch. The data plate was easy to read as is the engine number and the firewall tag. I am hoping someone might be able to decipher the info

Data Plate shows: SN1952726

Fiewall Data tag shows: 31154

Engine block has: Eng SN 123096-1

Hi Peter

It says USA under the Studebaker Corporation on the serial number plate, so looks like it was a South Bend product, otherwise it would say Walkerville, Ontario. S/N 1952726 is definitely an ER Standard 6. Body tag simply indicates it is the 31154th body made. It is not body style specific. Engine number 123096 is the part number for the cylinder block. The -1 means the first revision to the original design. Mine has -4 on it. There should be a stamped number on a pad on the passengers side of the cylinder block just below the cylinder head and to the right of the distributor. This is the engine number.

Terry

Hi Terry, thank you again. Yes, it was a South Bend, USA made Studebaker. I should have mentioned that. The engine is laying on that side on some tires on my trailer. I will check the SN soon and advise.

Peter

Hi Terry, Found the engine SN: It is ER 259240

Hope you can use those numbers to decipher the engine info?

Thanks

Peter