AD8 Posted September 11, 2014 Share Posted September 11, 2014 For anyone is interested and those who have offered advice so far: Mike (Middleton, et al) convertible top is on hold until more urgent mechanical needs are addressed, although I did learn from Ken at Midwest Remanufacturing that the top motor is original to the car. Tranny lines: As discussed, they offered much resistance. After soaking and gentle attention right side released without issue and hoped this was a good sign. Had to cut the other side but expected to chop both so I look at it as a win. Drive shaft is back from the drive line shop with new bearing, suppport, joints and a fresh balance - shooting for install on Saturday. Picked up recored radiator today. The shop was cautious and the original tank markings are intact. hope to get that in too, all depends on bending a nice replacement for the cut transmission line. Thanks for the help,Jim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AD8 Posted September 15, 2014 Author Share Posted September 15, 2014 Update: New shaft, radiator, trans line all installed. No leaks, no squeaks. Next month: Pull top motor for rebuild, pull heater core for recore.JimBCA 43102 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD1956 Posted September 15, 2014 Share Posted September 15, 2014 did you get the opportunity to take her for a ride? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AD8 Posted September 16, 2014 Author Share Posted September 16, 2014 Absolutely!But as a passenger. First test after coming down off the stands was promised to a friend and hobbyist who offered to help with the shaft and stayed for the rest of the chores. His comment: " Man it sure drives like a Buick now!" Thanks for the interest,JimBCA 43102'65 Wildcat first car'69 Wildcat '72 Riviera'70 Rivera'69 225 con.'64 Wildcat conv. current Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
buick5563 Posted September 16, 2014 Share Posted September 16, 2014 I'm going to want a ride as well, Jim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NTX5467 Posted September 17, 2014 Share Posted September 17, 2014 Sounds great! This was back when "character" was designed-in rather than "added on".NTX5467 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AD8 Posted September 23, 2014 Author Share Posted September 23, 2014 Next on the hit list: The faulty convertible top motor. Able to lower top but difficulty returning to covered cabin position. Suspect problem partially due to fluid loss. Here it is out of car and ready for inspection at Midwest Remanufacturing to see if this original part can be saved. The former owner was well aware of the problems as evidenced by the paper towels and aluminum foil (?) found cleverly packed around the unit to contain leaking. After cracking open the motor/pump (below) the crud created by fluid leaking across the halves internally is obvious. The good news; it can be repaired, saving the cost of a new unit and keeping a 50 year old part original to the car. Here's a question: Fluid in lines and reservoir is colorless and clear. Can find no specification in chassis manual. Believe it to be brake fluid. Can anyone comment on this? All for now and thanks for the interest.JimBCA 43102 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AD8 Posted September 23, 2014 Author Share Posted September 23, 2014 P.S. Haven't had much time for photos. Thought someone might to see a picture. This is after radiator, tranny lines and d-shaft install. Fresh off the blocka and ready for a drive. - Jim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wmsue Posted September 23, 2014 Share Posted September 23, 2014 Original was brake fluid. Now most people are using ATF. Check out the conv. top hoses while you're in there. I switched over to ATF when I rebuilt my top motor. Fairly easy to rebuild and flush. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
buick5563 Posted September 24, 2014 Share Posted September 24, 2014 Most rebuilders (and new parts suppliers) say that the warranty will be voided if ATF is NOT used. In other words, brake fluid shouldn't be used for warranty issues. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AD8 Posted September 24, 2014 Author Share Posted September 24, 2014 What fluid was provided from the factory when vehicle was new? If the change is made to ATF, is there a problem/risk of reaction between the two fluids, given that all existing fluid (assuming it's brake fluid) cannot be completely removed from the lines and rams? Since I can find no information in the chassis manual regarding convertible tops, components, etc... Can it be found in the body maunual?Thanks,Jim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
buick5563 Posted September 24, 2014 Share Posted September 24, 2014 I am not a chemist, but I would drain as much as you could, then fill with ATF.If a chemist is on the forum, maybe they will chime in Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD1956 Posted September 25, 2014 Share Posted September 25, 2014 On a totally separate note, that is one HOT BUICK!!! BEAUTIFUL CAR!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AD8 Posted September 25, 2014 Author Share Posted September 25, 2014 Thanks John, that's nice to hear every once in a while when the task list and part costs never seem to have an end. Jim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wmsue Posted September 25, 2014 Share Posted September 25, 2014 I cleaned out the resevoir in my parts cleaner and wiped it dry. Hooked up the pump to 12V and flushed ATF (from a bucket) through the lines. I think I changed the fluid 2 or 3 times to be sure it was clean before reinstalling the pump and installing the new lines. Follow the manual for bleeding and to get the air bubbles out. I had no trouble since doing mine in 2012. What is nice is not having to worry about lifting paint from spilling the brake fluid when you reinstall the pump.Nice looking car.ThanksBill Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AD8 Posted September 28, 2014 Author Share Posted September 28, 2014 What is nice is not having to worry about lifting paint from spilling the brake fluid when you reinstall the pump.That's the odd part and the reason for all the "fluid" questions. If the clear, colorless fluid is brake fluid that has leaked on the painted well deck where the pump is attached - there should be paint damage and there is none. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AD8 Posted September 28, 2014 Author Share Posted September 28, 2014 New fly in the ointment. While returning home from a small cruise-in last night (the weather in chicago has been beautiful!),I lost the horn. The original relay has failed. It's made by littlefuse and I know they're hard to come by. Anyone know the going rate and odds of finding one? Short of that, are there any reasonable substitutes that do not require mods? Thanks,Jim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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