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Recent purchase '64 Wildcat - update


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For anyone is interested and those who have offered advice so far: Mike (Middleton, et al) convertible top is on hold until more urgent mechanical needs are addressed, although I did learn from Ken at Midwest Remanufacturing that the top motor is original to the car. Tranny lines: As discussed, they offered much resistance. After soaking and gentle attention right side released without issue and hoped this was a good sign. Had to cut the other side but expected to chop both so I look at it as a win. Drive shaft is back from the drive line shop with new bearing, suppport, joints and a fresh balance - shooting for install on Saturday. Picked up recored radiator today. The shop was cautious and the original tank markings are intact. hope to get that in too, all depends on bending a nice replacement for the cut transmission line.

Thanks for the help,

Jim

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Absolutely!

But as a passenger. First test after coming down off the stands was promised to a friend and hobbyist who offered to help with the shaft and stayed for the rest of the chores. His comment: " Man it sure drives like a Buick now!"

Thanks for the interest,

Jim

BCA 43102

'65 Wildcat first car

'69 Wildcat

'72 Riviera

'70 Rivera

'69 225 con.

'64 Wildcat conv. current

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Next on the hit list: The faulty convertible top motor. Able to lower top but difficulty returning to covered cabin position. Suspect problem partially due to fluid loss. Here it is out of car and ready for inspection at Midwest Remanufacturing to see if this original part can be saved. The former owner was well aware of the problems as evidenced by the paper towels and aluminum foil (?) found cleverly packed around the unit to contain leaking.

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After cracking open the motor/pump (below) the crud created by fluid leaking across the halves internally is obvious. The good news; it can be repaired, saving the cost of a new unit and keeping a 50 year old part original to the car. Here's a question: Fluid in lines and reservoir is colorless and clear. Can find no specification in chassis manual. Believe it to be brake fluid. Can anyone comment on this?

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All for now and thanks for the interest.

Jim

BCA 43102

post-44854-143142732955_thumb.jpg

post-44854-143142732958_thumb.jpg

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Original was brake fluid. Now most people are using ATF. Check out the conv. top hoses while you're in there.

I switched over to ATF when I rebuilt my top motor. Fairly easy to rebuild and flush.

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What fluid was provided from the factory when vehicle was new? If the change is made to ATF, is there a problem/risk of reaction between the two fluids, given that all existing fluid (assuming it's brake fluid) cannot be completely removed from the lines and rams? Since I can find no information in the chassis manual regarding convertible tops, components, etc... Can it be found in the body maunual?

Thanks,

Jim

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I cleaned out the resevoir in my parts cleaner and wiped it dry. Hooked up the pump to 12V and flushed ATF (from a bucket) through the lines. I think I changed the fluid 2 or 3 times to be sure it was clean before reinstalling the pump and installing the new lines. Follow the manual for bleeding and to get the air bubbles out. I had no trouble since doing mine in 2012. What is nice is not having to worry about lifting paint from spilling the brake fluid when you reinstall the pump.

Nice looking car.

Thanks

Bill

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What is nice is not having to worry about lifting paint from spilling the brake fluid when you reinstall the pump.

That's the odd part and the reason for all the "fluid" questions. If the clear, colorless fluid is brake fluid that has leaked on the painted well deck where the pump is attached - there should be paint damage and there is none.

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New fly in the ointment. While returning home from a small cruise-in last night (the weather in chicago has been beautiful!),I lost the horn. The original relay has failed. It's made by littlefuse and I know they're hard to come by. Anyone know the going rate and odds of finding one? Short of that, are there any reasonable substitutes that do not require mods?

Thanks,

Jim

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