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1989 BUICK REATTA BRAKE PROBLEMS


Guest speegt

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I PICKED UP MY SECOND 1989 REATTA TODAY , THE PROBLEM IS THE BRAKES ARE GREAT WHEN YOU APPLY THE PEDAL, BUT THE PEDAL DONT RETURN , ONCE YOU PUSH IT DOWN ITS DOWN , YOU HAVE TO USE YOUR FOOT TO RETURN THE PEDAL , ANY HELP APPRECIATED , I SHOULD SAY CAR WAS SITTING FOR QUITE AWILE . ALSO THIS ONE HAS THE ELECTRIC SUNROOF I WOULD LIKE TO TRY AND GET IT TO WORK AGAIN , SOMEONE REMOVED THE HEADLINER AND ITS JUST A BUNCH OF WIRES AND SO ON UP THERE , THERE ISNT EVEN A SWITCH IM ASSUMING THERE WAS A SWITCH TO OPERATE IT SOMEWHERE . ANY ONE HAVE A COMPLETE DIAGRAM OF HOW IT WORKS AND WHAT ALL IS UP THERE .

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I'm no expert on brakes, but it sounds like to me, you have some crud in your brake lines. You might start with a brake line flush since the car has sat awhile. I also have not checked out the data base for the schematic yet, but if this car has proportional valves, they can sometimes be a big headache. I've got to flush the brake system on my 89 as well so it well be a learning experience for me.

Mike

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Concur with Mike, flush the brake system as it almost certainly needs it, and likely has for some time. There are proportioning valves on all Reattae, for the rear brakes. Also run the brake system test outlined here:

http://www.reattaowner.com/roj/component/content/article/64-suspension-a-brakes/brakes-mechanical/172-accumulator-testing-instructions

Regarding the sunroof, yes there is a switch that mounts through the headliner. You could probably jumper the harness at the correct pins (will need to consult the schematics before I advise anything specific on this) to operate the roof motor without the switch present.

Check with the parts vendors listed innthe thread titled "Reatta resources" at the top of this forum for a replacement switch and headliner shell. Make sure you also have the color keyed shade panel that goes with the headliner to cover the sunroof opening on the inside. If it is missing, order it as well.

Will post back here after I have had a chance to do some reading onthe sunroof circuit.

KDirk

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ok I went out to garage and did some testing , on the accumulator , the pump came on with key then off , I pumped brakes and it started right back up , each time I touched the pedal the pump came on , so im assuming the accumulator is bad , would this also be causing the pedal not to return .?

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Guest PontiacDude210

I believe what he said was the pump came on with the key on, then the pump shut off. I don't think he meant with the key off. I'm blessed with a neglected 1990 that still has a good accumulator. It does sound like you could use a brake fluid flush though. Even if there's clean fluid in the reservoir, there could be gunk in the lines.

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correct pump came on with key on , and I tried the accumulator test and every time I touched the pedal the pump came back on . it ran about 30 sec or so then shut off but if I touched pedal it came back on.

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Presently, the (factory) accumulators are not so easy to find. I can get a new one that I just found locally (St. Louis, MO) for about $185. This is in addition to two I just purchased for my own cars. If you strike out or would like me to get this one and ship it let me know. Other alternative is to get one here: ABS Power Brake Inc Orange CA 714-771-6549. They sell one that is reported to work for a hair under $200 but is not a factory original unit.

If you have a local parts house you deal with have them search on the AC Delco number from Amazon and see if they can turn one up. Otherwise I'm willing to ship you one at cost if interested.

KDirk

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ok thank you , but what else could be causing the pedal not to return , one person thought maybe the rubber hoses going to each corner were collapsing inside causing pressure to not return , but wouldn't it have to be all 4 hoses to do that , ive had bad hoses before and never had this problem.

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I was just curious. If you push the pedal down and leave it overnight, does it travel any at all back to it's original position, or does it just stay down. I'm wondering if you might have a blockage at the rear proportional valve , which does not allow the fluid to return to the master cylinder . Maybe it's a combination of air in the lines with some blockage, don't know. I just thought I would put that in the mix.

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Thank you all for the responses ,as per someones suggestion I decided to remove the pump ,upon doing so I noticed a 2 wire plug that goes into the front of pump right above and to the left of the pressure switch the wires were broken , any ideas what this controls in the pump , ? Anyway I took the pump to my mechanic and although he hasn't messed with one in a long time ,he felt that the brake pedal rod felt like it wasn't going into the pump like it should , suggested I see if I can get the brake rod out of pump and see if theres something in there causing it to stick , does this make sense .?He thought maybe there was some gunk or rust in there .Does anyone know when the pump is out how difficult is it to push the rod in and out ?The spring is there and seems to be intact. Also could the broken wires have anything to do with the pedal not returning , I also already bleed the system out completely and it didn't help at all .

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Guest Mc_Reatta

I think your confusing us with what words you are using to describe things.

I believe when you say "pump" you are talking about the master cylinder, not the true pump.

I'm thinking your two wire plug is for the main valve and this would be a significant issue and may be the problem.

The brake rod doesn't go into the "pump" but the master cylinder. I thought your problem was the rod doesn't come back out, not doesn't push in?

Did you ever do step 7 of the brake test where you check that main valve? You feel for a response in the pedal, so it definitely will affect the pedal.

Anyway you can post some photos so were not talking apples and oranges?

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Sorry if my post is confusing when I push down the brake pedal it dont return stays where you push the pedal to.I took the whole assembly off today took it to a mechanic and he felt the rod was to tight or something should be able to move it in by hand .

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Guest Mc_Reatta

Not sure how much force should be needed to push rod in by hand on a Teves. So this could be the problem or not.

Unfortunately, there are no parts available to do any internal master cylinder repairs. There was a fellow I believe in Davie FL that did refurbish these units but I don't think he is doing it anymore. Last I saw of him was on eBay but haven't seen in a long time. That leaves the only route as a used unit in good working condition if this is the problem and not the broken wires to the master valve.

Maybe someone who has worked with the unit out of the car recently can chime in with how hard it is to move that rod by hand.

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I got up under the dash today with the complete brake pump assembly removed and it seems to me like the pedal should move real easy but I have to use a little pressure to move pedal up and down this car was sitting for awhile and water did get up inside , I can see rust around the shaft where the pedal swivels, I tried to sray some penetrating oil up there but its just in such a tight spot , is there anyway easy to remove the brake pedal assembly and clean it up and lube it . It almost looks like the steering column is in the way . thanks

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