36 buick special-replacing rear windows

I've replaced front windows without a hitch but the rears are a mystery to me. The windows would not appear to roll down very far and the order of repair has me scratching my head. If I put in the wood with winder attached can't figure out how to get window in track for window. I'm sure, at least I hope, I am simply not seeing the easy way to put the window and wood with winder back in. Suggestions/HELP.

Rod

Sounds like you are talking about a 2-door?

On my '38 2-door, the new lower tracks went in, then the winder-upper (no wood in my case), then the window tipped in from the inside of the car. Attaching it to the winder mechanism then allowed the window to go down, as far as it would go. Then, the upper track could be installed. Finally, the inside door panel and garnish molding. None of this seems to be going together correctly until finally, with one more twist, it drops into place.

Don't know if this helps or not...

Jeff

Sorry-not a two door but 4 door. Think I may have figured out how to get the windows attached to winder--I put in window channel(fuzzy) first as I cannot figure out how to put in later as the window when it rolls down is in channel and the winder is attached to the wood door insert which goes accross door and has not only winder but door mechanism which opens/locks the door. I assume this window only goes down about 1/2 way as the curve of the back door for back wheel is such that I don't think any way it goes down further. Thanks for the response.

Rod

Rod, did you figure this out? I'm sitting ' in the Newark Airport awaiting my direct to Tulsa and don't have access to my car but these things I recall that there is a stiff channel below the flexible fuzzy channel on each side of the door. First, remove the small, short channel on the wood (the one for a leg of the winder) so that window glass and channel can be separated from the winder mechanism. Then remove the wood across the door. Next, remove the stiff channel sections and pull glass out of its fuzzy flexible channel enough to clear the wood at the top of that lower curve.

This sounds like a real cluster but I think it's what it takes. On my roadmasher I cut a groove in the lower wood and the cut a small diagonal on the bottom of the glass to make it roll down all the way.

take care,

joel

not sure if I figure out. Decided to tackle the other rear door as to see if I can figure out what I've done wrong. Your description is exactly the way mine is set up and I have both of the stiff metal channels and the rubber with fuzzy insert which goes in the metal channel. If you don't want to use the rubber "U" shaped fuzzy you can just insert the flexible fuzzy in the metal channel. Interesting the way you cut the channel so window would roll down all the way. Think probably a little more clearance in the bigger car and don't think I could cut channel but that's OK. I'm going to work on it this weekend and think I will have problem solved. I'm thinking I may have mounted the glass backwards in the window channel where the winder fits in which would cause the whole think to not fit as it should but the curves of the window are not significantly different so I may not have noticed. Thanks for response--my guess just another stupid mistake by me and really slow in realizing what I had done.

Rod

Rod,

Keep plenty of information and photos if you can as I have to do the same things to mine this winter. One of my rear windows will not crank down. I did the front windows last winter.

Change subject. My machine shop buddies got real busy, but I am still on their list to make the brackets. I will check again sometime this week.

Tom

No problem on the brackets, appreciate your help. Installed both rear windows in the doors and when I crank them down they move a little side to side and get in a bind. Not sure what the issue is but have mechanic friend who should be over in the next few weeks and I'm sure I've just not tweaked it the right way. We'll see.

Rod