Silver engine color for a 1963 Riviera

Having my 401 engine rebuilt, they cleaned it great, right down to the metal. Time to be repainted, just wondering where to get the correct silver paint for the engine?

The age old question that has no definitive answer. Look at some pictures on Google Images and see what the rest of the world is doing. Just so you don't paint it shiny silver or use aluminum paint, you should be okay.

This link is to a picture that's is from a glossy brochure that Buick had available in the show rooms in '63. Just don't park next to another '63 Riviera with both hoods open and no one will know the difference.

https://www.google.com/search?q=1963+riviera+engine&espv=2&biw=1280&bih=667&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ei=HcwLVNfvMMeG8gG5i4CYDw&ved=0CAYQ_AUoAQ#facrc=_&imgdii=_&imgrc=DjcrkdY3mVNrwM%253A%3BvlV8CJjX0qSJLM%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Fwww.oldirononline.com%252Fbrochures%252FBuick%252F1963%252FRiviera%252Fimages%252F1963%252520Buick%252520Riviera-06_jpg.jpg%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Fwww.oldirononline.com%252Fbrochures%252FBuick%252F1963%252FRiviera%252Fpages%252F1963%252520Buick%252520Riviera-06_jpg.htm%3B1229%3B1320

This link shows a restored car at auction that's pretty close to the color of the engine in the brochure. If you find "THE" color, please share it with the rest of us.

q=1963+riviera+engine&espv=2&biw=1280&bih=667&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ei=HcwLVNfvMMeG8gG5i4CYDw&ved=0CAYQ_AUoAQ#facrc=_&imgdii=_&imgrc=kvCtO8Piw2s-QM%253A%3B6EtI7nYM6aU-DM%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Fwww.barrett-jackson.com%252Fstaging%252Fcarlist%252Fitems%252FFullsize%252FCars%252F96423%252F96423_Engine_Web.jpg%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Fwww.barrett-jackson.com%252FArchive%252FEvent%252FItem%252F1963-BUICK-RIVIERA-COUPE-96423%3B1000%3B750'>https://www.google.com/search?

q=1963+riviera+engine&espv=2&biw=1280&bih=667&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ei=HcwLVNfvMMeG8gG5i4CYDw&ved=0CAYQ_AUoAQ#facrc=_&imgdii=_&imgrc=kvCtO8Piw2s-QM%253A%3B6EtI7nYM6aU-DM%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Fwww.barrett-jackson.com%252Fstaging%252Fcarlist%252Fitems%252FFullsize%252FCars%252F96423%252F96423_Engine_Web.jpg%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Fwww.barrett-jackson.com%252FArchive%252FEvent%252FItem%252F1963-BUICK-RIVIERA-COUPE-96423%3B1000%3B750

By the looks of this restoration, I'd bet that someone found some original paint on the engine and had it matched.

Ed

I think the silver that CARS Inc. offers is pretty close. I used that on my engine after a complete cleaning, and it's already slightly yellowing to a slightly warmer shade with the heat of the engine. It's pretty good stuff but best applied with a sprayer, even disposable Pre-Val cartridges that are available at Home Depot, Ace, etc.

Here's the job in progress...

Jan,

That color looks good. Did you brush it on this engine?

Have you heard of a product called Calyx Manifold dressing? Check it out; you'd be amazed at what it will make your exhaust manifolds look like. Wire brush the excess rust off of them, clean them with some paint prep, and use a foam brush to apply it. Perhaps Gord can post a picture of his engine after he used the Calyx on it.

Ed

Thanks, Ed - I brushed it on the rough surfaces only - heads, block, manifold, crossover pipe, etc. - using a foam brush. I sprayed it on the smooth parts - valve covers, brackets, manifold cover, etc. I used xylene to thin it while spraying. Thanks for the tip on Calyx - I'll check it out. Would the OEM exh manifold finish be kind of a charcoal gray?

I think it would have been a rough casting natural gray color. The Calyx will give you that same appearance.

Ed here is a pic that I could locate quickly that shows the drivers side exhaust manifold treated with the Calyx. The stuff goes on easy with a toothbrush and has a very authentic finish. You have to touch it up every couple of months, so save the toothbrush in a plastic ziploc bag and it will be ready for touch up. The small container that it comes in can do eight manifolds easily. I passed mine around to several Buick owners in the here in the Kansas City area BCA chapter. Even the guys that had their exhaust manifolds blasted, powder coated and sealed, swear by the Calyx now that they tried it, and it not an expensive alternative at all.

I will try to get a closer shot, but this is the way it looks in context with the rest of the engine.

Rock On

gord

Here is a close look at both exhaust manifolds. The original application was done in January this year and touched up once. You can see in these pictures the drivers side needs a bit of touch up - and you will also see that I need to clean the dipstick handle a bit (isn't it funny how close up pictures show the blemishes)

Just so you get an idea of what it takes to do it, generally it takes a couple hours for the initial application, or about 1 hour per manifold. And to get the bottom of the manifold you will have to get under the car. The touch up process takes less than 10 minutes.

.

Rock On

gord

Here is a close look at both exhaust manifolds. The original application was done in January this year and touched up once. You can see in these pictures the drivers side needs a bit of touch up - and you will also see that I need to clean the dipstick handle a bit (isn't it funny how close up pictures show the blemishes)

Just so you get an idea of what it takes to do it, generally it takes a couple hours for the initial application, or about 1 hour per manifold. And to get the bottom of the manifold you will have to get under the car. The touch up process takes less than 10 minutes.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]268599[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]268600[/ATTACH].

Rock On

gord

That does look nice Gord. I see you even have the correct year spark plug wires. Nice touch!

Darren thank you very much. Incidentally I got the plug wires from Cars, Inc. - W3330651, last fall. They finish off the look very nice.

Speaking of some of those finishing touches, I don't know if you noticed the Power Steering pump high pressure hose clamp. I had a worm screw modern clamp on the car when I bought it. The one I have now helps give the motor compartment a nice original look.

Also, did you see the choke tube fabric - it was very dirty when I got the car, very gray with black marks all over it. I think it is the original sleeve. They are very easy to clean. Take it off, soak it in an water solution with a couple tablespoons full of oxyclean, then use a brush to scrub it a bit, let it dry and it looks good as new for almost no charge.

Rock On

gord

Thanks Gord for the added advice. Your car looks like it just came out of the factory! :cool:

I would have liked to try this on my manifolds. Used the Eastwood manifold gray foam brushed on. The manifolds were cem dipped so no rust. I hv used the Eastwood before looks great but starts to bleed through and needs touch up quit a bit.

Here's a pic of the silver paint on my engine. I had bought Silver paint from CARS about 10 years ago it is was basically aluminum paint and was too bright. Don't know if they have a closer match now. I experimented with a few paints and then settled on this as the closest I could find. It is an Eastwood paint for Rally wheels. I have Calyx on my exhaust manifolds too. Stuff works great but I do need to touch it up every 2-3 years.

Here's a pic of the silver paint on my engine. I had bought Silver paint from CARS about 10 years ago it is was basically aluminum paint and was too bright. Don't know if they have a closer match now. I experimented with a few paints and then settled on this as the closest I could find. It is an Eastwood paint for Rally wheels. I have Calyx on my exhaust manifolds too. Stuff works great but I do need to touch it up every 2-3 years.

Your engine compartment looks beautiful! One thing you might want to consider doing is replacing the windshield washer bottle with the correct reproduction from CARS. The yellowed bottle is the

only visual flaw in an otherwise totally pristine engine compartment. I did that on my car and it sure made a big difference in the overall appearance. The CARS repro has the correct Buick logo and looks just like the

original without the yellowing.

Your engine compartment looks beautiful! One thing you might want to consider doing is replacing the windshield washer bottle with the correct reproduction from CARS. The yellowed bottle is the

only visual flaw in an otherwise totally pristine engine compartment. I did that on my car and it sure made a big difference in the overall appearance. The CARS repro has the correct Buick logo and looks just like the

original without the yellowing.

I do like the authenticity of your engine compartment Darrell. Personally I think you should keep the original washer bottle, especially if it functions properly and doesn't leak. I don't see it detracting at all from the rest of the engine and surrounding area. IMHO the more functional vintage equipment we replace in these classic cars the less overall appeal they have for hobbyists and collectors alike.

Thanks guys, appreciate the complements about the engine compartment. I hadn't thought about changing out the washer bottle since it wasn't cracked or broken. I might try to soak it in some bleach to see if I can brighten it up a little.

Engine looks great! Helps me with mine for sure. Kind of bummed about CARS color maybe wrong I just order a quart. Oh well I'll give it a look see first maybe it changed.

Engine looks great! Helps me with mine for sure. Kind of bummed about CARS color maybe wrong I just order a quart. Oh well I'll give it a look see first maybe it changed.

Thanks! Just to clarify, I bought that engine paint from CARS about 10-12years ago, and it was too bright, almost like a shiny aluminum. They may have improved on their paint formulation since then. Please let us know.

I received the CARs engine paint. I matched it to a bracket with silver paint on it. I will note I do not know if this is the correct silver but it does not match. The CARs color is a rich silver where the old color is more like the old GM wheel silver. It's lighter and has less flake in it. I spoke to CARS and they assured me thier's is correct. This engine color matching is on going.

I like the idea of just not parking next to another silver engined 63 riv

I received the CARs engine paint. I matched it to a bracket with silver paint on it. I will note I do not know if this is the correct silver but it does not match. The CARs color is a rich silver where the old color is more like the old GM wheel silver. It's lighter and has less flake in it. I spoke to CARS and they assured me thier's is correct. This engine color matching is on going.

I like the idea of just not parking next to another silver engined 63 riv

Could the reason be that originally there where different batches of silver paint that Buick plants used throughout 1963 and each engine may differ somewhat due to subtle changes in the paints used from different suppliers? Just speculating, as I have not heard of a particular paint code that signifies exactly what shade and metallic flake level was mandated during this time (if there was one please educated me on this).

When I bought my '63 back in '82, it had lots of original engine paint on it. I tried matching it with different silvers and everything I found at the time had too much metallic in it. In my humble opinion, it's more of a light flat grey than a silver, but the factory called it silver.

Here's a link to pictures of another '63 "original paint engine." It shows the color to be the same as Darrell's in his post #14 above.

Look at pictures #11 and #12 in the following link.

http://forums.aaca.org/f177/new-63-riv-owner-383022.html

I would venture to say that whatever you can find that will match these two engines is 'right on.'

Ed

I spoke to the vendor and he assured me it's the right color. NOT convinced figured he just doesn't want to take it back. So I found the old silver wheel color on the Chevy to be closer. So I'm stuck with a expensive quart of silver paint I'm not using. I have more parts I can't use to go along with it. Oh well I wanted a challenge and here it is.

OK, now that the engine is painted (CAR's Silver) I stand corrected. Reduced with Xyolen per instructions sprayed over etch primer and it looks much closer. Kinda dull silver per Ed's description. Well mixed and the silver is not as pronounced. One coat looked too shinny by the third coat started to dull up. I think this will look good. Painted with most brackets and bolts installed like factory. Even added overspray on coolant sensor and oil sender. It dulled even more after drying, this picture is still wet.