What I use for stuck nuts and bolts-what do you use?

I use the last one on the list-works great and its cheap. Don't buy the cheap spray bottle. Want last.

Sorry to be confused. Do you use the Kroil or the 50-50 mix? Zeke

ATF-acetone.

Guess you would have to mix it as needed ... I imagine the acetone would evaporate from the mix ... or does it keep in an air tight container?

Read my 1st post-(I use the last one on the list-works great and its cheap. Don't buy the cheap spray bottle. Want last) Buy the chemical spray bottles to do the mix. They are about 8.00 at a good hardware store.

Mix 50 50 I have had no problems. We dismantle a lot of cars. Its the best that I have used compare to other penetrating fluids. I have even used heat with this stuff for the real stubborn fasteners.

I've found a mix of your favorite penetrating oil and brake fluid to be the best ever.

If I can heat the part i'll use paraffin wax... heat the part then touch a sliver of the wax to it and watch it creep. I've had some quick releases on some very stuck nuts!

If I can heat the part i'll use paraffin wax... heat the part then touch a sliver of the wax to it and watch it creep. I've had some quick releases on some very stuck nuts!

LIKE!!

Keep them coming.

Sea Foam Deep Creep is the best product I've ever used.

Never heard of it

More details please

I have had good results with Ambersil Rust Flash.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Ambersil-Penetrating-Oil-500Ml-Rust-Flash-6150003601-/121418374372?pt=UK_DIY_Material_Paint_Varnish_MJ&hash=item1c45195ce4

It works by freezing and 'cracking' the rust while the penetrating fluid does it's stuff. Ideal where heat is not the best solution. The most recent use was in removing exhaust manifold studs where heat could be used but this was to hand.

Ray.

Never heard of it

More details please

Been using it for about 8 years now...

http://seafoamsales.com/deep-creep/

one ive used a couple times now, and it was great for a seized block (engine re-conditioners had given up on this block!) was 1/3.1/3.1/3. Mineral turpentine, Brake fluid and engine oil -like 15/40 .....

I let it sit for around 30minutes, and a not - too - many - forceful whacks with a block of wood and hammer later had the culprit out..... unfortunately the engine co turkey strangler that had given up trying to get the piston out had used a big screw-driver at some point and had seriously gouged the wall ........

al

GOOD STUFF!!

one ive used a couple times now, and it was great for a seized block (engine re-conditioners had given up on this block!) was 1/3.1/3.1/3. Mineral turpentine, Brake fluid and engine oil -like 15/40 .....

I let it sit for around 30minutes, and a not - too - many - forceful whacks with a block of wood and hammer later had the culprit out..... unfortunately the engine co turkey strangler that had given up trying to get the piston out had used a big screw-driver at some point and had seriously gouged the wall ........

al

Thats a great name for those types" turkey strangler"....hahaha had to chime in on that one...... I like the "chicken pluckers" too..............

Sea Foam Deep Creep is the best product I've ever used.

Just saw this stuff in a parts store yesterday...........

BUMP

I just use Liquid Wrench.  Good stuff poted here.

I usually get impatient....and get a hammer......tap, tap, tap, tap, tap, KAPLUNK!   Aww sh**!

Heat. Use a Propane torch meant for sweating copper so you don't heat up the metal itself so as to "Untemper" it. I find it works best and it's cheap and not as messy as liquid type solutions.

I also have in the past used Liquid Wrench with great success.  However, if you have an old can of it lying around, you might want to read about what is in the stuff.  Good product but not something you want to get on or in you.  Couldn't figure out how to paste it but there is a very informative court decision just published from the court in Alameda County, California, David Johnson v. United States Steel Corporation.  It discusses the presence of benzene in Liquid Wrench and how long term exposure (plaintiff tore down engines for a living) can lead to cancers such a leukemia.  Obviously many of the things we all work with in our hobby (asbestos brake linings, etc.) can be harmful and some good common sense is probably sufficient.  However, being informed also doesn't hurt.  Again, I couldn't figure out how to paste a pdf on this site but if you Google the case name you should be able to pull up a copy of the decision.  SMB--OK, figured out how to paste it, see attached

9-3-15 Johnson v. U.S. Steel Corp. No. A142485.pdf

I'll ad that I've had surprising luck with a tip that someone on this, or another forum mentioned. It seems a bit counter intuitive at first, but here it is: simultaneously spray brake clean and ATF at the threads of a frozen bolt or nut. The brake clean is very, very thin and of course it evaporates rapidly, but some amount of it carries the vastly thinned ATF into the threads a ways. I haven't been doing this for years, mind you, I only learned of it a few years ago, but I've been impressed with the results. Honestly, I haven't yet had much occasion to try to make it work going uphill, so I won't promise great success in all situations, but most guys have the ingredients lying around their garages, so give it a try.

I once had to somehow remove some rusty wood screws from a timber frame. They were properly stuck and there was the risk of the slots burring over.  It was imperative that the screws didn't break off inside. I obviously couldn't use a flame and there was no way of getting penetrating fluid in so I took the advise of an old timer who told me to hold the tip of a soldering iron against the heads of the screws. In hope rather than expectation I did as I was instructed on the first screw and after a while it began smoking. "Now tap the head with a brass drift and the screw should undo" said the old boy.

Hey Ho and away we go...the screw came out easy as you like!

Ray.

Ray, I'll remember that. Wood can grab hold of a screw with remarkable tenacity.