How to remove headlight bulbs from the headlight assembly?

How are the headlight bulbs removed from the headlight assembly? I already have the assemblies with the bulbs in them removed from the car.

How are the headlight bulbs removed from the headlight assembly? I already have the assemblies with the bulbs in them removed from the car.

What year is your Riviera?

A year would help, but the sealed beam headlights are usually held into the pots, or buckets by a stainless trim ring that is secured with three self tapping srews in tabs that are spot welded to the trim ring. Those small screws may be difficult to remove as they usually rust to the pots and may need a little persuasion to loosen them, be careful not to break the tabs off the sst trim ring.

If I'm not mistaken, there's also a spring attached to the stainless ring. Easy to get the ring off, but the spring sometimes makes it harder to get back on.

Ed

What year is your Riviera?

1963. Sorry, I keep forgetting to give that important bit of info. Doesn't everyone own a 63?

Yes, I see the hooked spring but it is hooked to the "pot" that the bulbs nestle in. Even if you, somehow, get that spring unhooked from the pot there are still the 2 adjustment screws that are also connected to the pot. The Adjustment screws , it seems, can only be gotten at from the front, after the front chrome beauty ring comes off.

Do the chrome outer rings unscrew from the assembly once that small Phillips screw is removed from underneath the chrome ring?

I'm pretty sure that all sealed beams, round or rectangular, are attached the same way. It's only when you get into the new lamp systems where just the bulb is replaced are there differences. That won't affect the Riviera until 1986 and later.

I'm pretty sure that all sealed beams, round or rectangular, are attached the same way. It's only when you get into the new lamp systems where just the bulb is replaced are there differences. That won't affect the Riviera until 1986 and later.

O.K. but I'm saying that there must be some way that the front chrome beauty ring comes away from the assembly.

O.K. but I'm saying that there must be some way that the front chrome beauty ring comes away from the assembly.

Yes, the front chrome beauty rings come away from the assembly. Mine were really on tight after all these years.

If you're referring to the hooded beauty ring that's part of the aesthetics, there are some Phillips head screws that need to be removed first. One screw secures each hood; and a hook and tab holds it in place on the top. If you can post a picture of your situation, it would be helpful. You have to remove the hoods to get to the retaining rings.

Ed

1963. Sorry, I keep forgetting to give that important bit of info. Doesn't everyone own a 63?

Its helpful to place often-used information in your signature line. That way it is automatically included in all your posts. Year and ROA member number are best. And then something about your car (such as color combination) can also be useful.

If you're referring to the hooded beauty ring that's part of the aesthetics, there are some Phillips head screws that need to be removed first. One screw secures each hood; and a hook and tab holds it in place on the top. If you can post a picture of your situation, it would be helpful. You have to remove the hoods to get to the retaining rings.

Ed

Right, thanks. My hooded beauty rings were corroded on and very tight but they came off. When parts have been on for many years it can be difficult to know if you are trying to remove them incorrectly or if they are just stuck.

Hi 39mm,

I did the same job not too long ago on my '63, changing all four headlamps for halogens. Maybe you're all done by now, but the trick I used for those darn springs is to put the headlights into the stainless steel trim rings and snug the screws almost all the way but not super tight. Then use a long piece of baling wire, wrapped twice for strength, and hooked it through the spring end. Wearing some mechanic's gloves so as not to pull on the bare wire, pull the wire forward on both ends to hook the spring into place. Easy as pie once I figured this out. Some folks will tell you not to disturb the alignment screws but my headlights needed to be realigned anyway. You can easily do that using a white sheet or garage door with a level surface, some blue tape for markers and by getting the diagram from the Internet for high and low beam positioning. Also, make sure the top tabs on the four individual headlight bezels are securely in place before you tighten the long Philips screw on the bottoms. Hope this helps!

Hi 39mm,

I did the same job not too long ago on my '63, changing all four headlamps for halogens. Maybe you're all done by now, but the trick I used for those darn springs is to put the headlights into the stainless steel trim rings and snug the screws almost all the way but not super tight. Then use a long piece of baling wire, wrapped twice for strength, and hooked it through the spring end. Wearing some mechanic's gloves so as not to pull on the bare wire, pull the wire forward on both ends to hook the spring into place. Easy as pie once I figured this out. Some folks will tell you not to disturb the alignment screws but my headlights needed to be realigned anyway. You can easily do that using a white sheet or garage door with a level surface, some blue tape for markers and by getting the diagram from the Internet for high and low beam positioning. Also, make sure the top tabs on the four individual headlight bezels are securely in place before you tighten the long Philips screw on the bottoms. Hope this helps!

Thanks for the tips, Jan.

On 9/2/2014 at 4:44 PM, RivNut said:

If I'm not mistaken, there's also a spring attached to the stainless ring. Easy to get the ring off, but the spring sometimes makes it harder to get back on.

Ed

Ed, the spring is hard, real hard to get the whole assembly back together. I used a heavy fishing cable that was coated with vinyl to loop around the spring that connects to headlight shell ( ring ) hole. I held the headlight beam and assembly together in one hand and pulled the spring forward with the fishing cable in the other hand to drop in the hole in the ring. Once the spring was secure in it's place I carefully tightened the assembly back in place. 

Ed, I found only ONE (1) spring on the head light assembly. The spring had to be used or the headlight assembly wasn't going to stay put. Well, it was hard for me to pull the spring with my fingers or needle pliers. Could be advancing arthritis in my hands and fingers and weakness is creeping in the hand. In any case the only way I could get the spring to where it was suppose to be was by looping the fishing cable around the hook end of the spring and pulling the cable and spring toward me and dropping the spring in the hole in the ring. I could very well be making a mountain out of mole hill, but anytime I find a way to fix something I get very excited.

2 hours ago, Red Riviera Bob said:

Ed, I found only ONE (1) spring on the head light assembly. The spring had to be used or the headlight assembly wasn't going to stay put. Well, it was hard for me to pull the spring with my fingers or needle pliers. Could be advancing arthritis in my hands and fingers and weakness is creeping in the hand. In any case the only way I could get the spring to where it was suppose to be was by looping the fishing cable around the hook end of the spring and pulling the cable and spring toward me and dropping the spring in the hole in the ring. I could very well be making a mountain out of mole hill, but anytime I find a way to fix something I get very excited.

Bob,

One spring per headlight is correct. Buy a cheap set of picks. I use them all the time.They are very handy to have. One of the uses I have found for the right angle pick is for reattaching that troublesome headlight bucket spring. Hook it on the spring and pull it into place. Your fishing line idea was ingenious. I would not have thought of that.

Bill

Bill, I have the same set of picks and small files and brushes to boot! I have a hard time seeing what kind of tool to use for the not so obvious mechanical tasks.

One item I picked up was a set of "tube wrenches"? The tube wrenches make it much easier when changing tubes that carry fluid. I don't tear up the tube fittings with the tube wrenches. One thing I have learned over time is good solid clean electrical connections are critical for the electricity to do what it is suppose to do.

My next task is to get some pamphlets or books on basic auto electric. I'd like to learn how to use a volt/ohm meter? I understand you can measure certain electrical elements that can guide you toward solving an electrical problem.

thanks again for your consideration and positive comments.

Red Riviera Bob

Not sure where the OP (...39mm), is located,  but some of the European halogen headlamp systems do have removable/replaceable halogen type bulbs.

My 'NA 08 GMC PU uses different sizes of halogen bulbs for the lighting system.

Normally you can remove and replace a 'sealed beam' type lamp without removing that tension spring, which prevents the headlamp unit from vibrating  inside the pot.

15 hours ago, Red Riviera Bob said:

 

My next task is to get some pamphlets or books on basic auto electric. I'd like to learn how to use a volt/ohm meter? I understand you can measure certain electrical elements that can guide you toward solving an electrical problem.

thanks again for your consideration and positive comments.

Red Riviera Bob

Bob, 

an auto book titled Automotive Emission Control and Tune Up Procedures is one I borrowed from a library and photo copied as I just love the simplicity of the diagrams showing where you connect the meter and what you are looking for. It covers older cars as well but found it useful for a '40 Pontiac and '64 Skylark and my Riviera. The diagrams gave me confidence to check and test things when I was learning (still am) otherwise you are needlessly just replacing parts that are still ok or outsourcing to a workshop. Still use it for reference especially if I haven't done that test for sometime. Might be worth a look so includes a few pages.

4 hours ago, rodneybeauchamp said:

 

Bob, 

an auto book titled Automotive Emission Control and Tune Up Procedures is one I borrowed from a library and photo copied as I just love the simplicity of the diagrams showing where you connect the meter and what you are looking for. It covers older cars as well but found it useful for a '40 Pontiac and '64 Skylark and my Riviera. The diagrams gave me confidence to check and test things when I was learning (still am) otherwise you are needlessly just replacing parts that are still ok or outsourcing to a workshop. Still use it for reference especially if I haven't done that test for sometime. Might be worth a look so includes a few pages.

 

These were my favorite tools and periodical growing up.  (Still not grown up)

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Science-Fair-150-in-1-Electronic-Project-Kit-28-248-Radio-Shack-1976-/332309871873?epid=1601474106&hash=item4d5f363d01:g:0HEAAOSwGWhZbsU7