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1929 DB vacuum tank


stakeside

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I do not think that's the right tank for any Dodge.The one you show in the pic, the 4 screw top is a constant suction model,the diagram is the 8 screw.I restore and rebuild tanks,nowhere in my book does it say Dodge used the constant suction?Also,just looked at a flyer from the Dodge club,no mention of the 4 screw.I can help you out,Before you put the electric fire starter on it.Ok,back on it.Conflicting info.The Dodge booklet shows them going to the Kinston tank in late 28,going to a Ac cam pump in 1930.My stewart warner book shows a vacuum tank in 30?

Edited by old car fan (see edit history)
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I do not think that's the right tank for any Dodge.The one you show in the pic, the 4 screw top is a constant suction model,the diagram is the 8 screw.I restore and rebuild tanks,nowhere in my book does it say Dodge used the constant suction?Also,just looked at a flyer from the Dodge club,no mention of the 4 screw.I can help you out,Before you put the electric fire starter on it.Ok,back on it.Conflicting info.The Dodge booklet shows them going to the Kinston tank in late 28,going to a Ac cam pump in 1930.My stewart warner book shows a vacuum tank in 30?

I doubt this was a not original equipment but it is possible. The tank was on the Dodge Bros truck went I bought it in 1970.

It may be a tank for a Graham Bros truck since the 28 to 29 trucks were transitioning to Dodge Bros name. They were sharing parts.

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As you can see the float is no good. Are these available?

Have the inner tank with the screen. I do not know what the diaphragm is that was mentioned in previous post.

Is there any assemble publications or a listing to show vehicle usage of that model tank?

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I have the parts,tanks,and rebuild kits for the 8 screw tops,also have parts for the 4 bolt stewert tankPm me if you woud like

Do have the tank as shown in pic? Also is there a listing showing these Stewert tanks applications or vehicle usage ? Previous post stated it was on his Whipet.

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  • 2 months later...

This tank assembly is quite simple. I believe I have all pieces: inner tank, float, and cover. The float is beyond repair. Cover has a vacuum shutoff valve that stops the vacuum went the float raises and tank is full.

i will need a new float and Still looking for instructions for the model 93C vacuum tank.

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I have repaired the tank float twice. Submerged it in warm water to find the leaks, then soldered the leaks. I drilled a small hole in the bottom of the float to shake out all the gas and or water. Let it sit for a while to allow any fumes to evaporate then make the repair keeping the solder as thin as possible, then plug the drain hole you made. Make sure the hook from the float threads through both eyelets with the entire hook above both eyelets.(patience) so it operates smoothly.

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  • 3 years later...
On 11/23/2014 at 5:05 PM, stakeside said:

This tank assembly is quite simple. I believe I have all pieces: inner tank, float, and cover. The float is beyond repair. Cover has a vacuum shutoff valve that stops the vacuum went the float raises and tank is full.

i will need a new float and Still looking for instructions for the model 93C vacuum tank.

.post-71470-143142846284_thumb.jpg

post-71470-143142846255_thumb.jpg

post-71470-143142846271_thumb.jpg

 

I am back checking on my vacuum tank rebuild parts.

I need a new float and a rubber flap for bottom.. I may be able to fabricate a float if I had the right materials but prefer to purchase one.

 

In previous posts there was many comments on if this is a correct application for this model of tank. Well it is what it is and I would like to use the tank in my truck.

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please show a better photo for inner tank,  bottom outlet.

 

Mine has a pot metal elbow with a bakelite flapper ,  the flapper is at about 20 degree angle.  

 

The flapper needs to seal the bottom of the   inner tank from the outer tank, to keep vacuum internal until inner float actuates upper valves.

I had to use airplane dope ( it is gas proof ) to seal the pot metal elbow and to protect the sealing surface for the bakelite flapper.

 

Your float is repairable,  use rosin solder for electrical work. do not use acid core solder as it is corrosive.

Be patient, could make hole in bottom to insert small tool ( nail )  to push dented sides back int shape.

Then solder hole.

 

 

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On 11/23/2014 at 5:05 PM, stakeside said:

This tank assembly is quite simple. I believe I have all pieces: inner tank, float, and cover. The float is beyond repair. Cover has a vacuum shutoff valve that stops the vacuum went the float raises and tank is full.

i will need a new float and Still looking for instructions for the model 93C vacuum tank.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

post-71470-143142846284_thumb.jpgpost-71470-143142846255_thumb.jpg

post-71470-143142846271_thumb.jpg

 

These are the only parts and there functions for the Steward 93 C vacuum tank. Very simple system.

The vacuum inlet has two eyelets for the float. I am not sure why there are 2 eyelets. Seams that would stop vacuum when tank is full.

The flapper appears to be working and it would regulate the fuel flow.

It appears that the only parts I need are: float, fuel inlet screen, and gasket.

Are there any other parts I need?

 

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My tank is quite similar.

 

There is a small spring on the float arm.

It is installed on float arm first, then arm is threaded into the two valve arms on cover.

 

I think the spring is meant to provide a little pressure on the lower arm as float rises.

The spring is very soft and measures about 1/4 inch in free length. ( un compressed )

 

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In addition, I  see no reason why a float of modern material could not be made and work.

Your float will supply all needed dimensions. 

 

good luck

Edited by Hans1
fat finger mistake (see edit history)
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Yes mine are 4 screw tops.

 

They also have an added feature of a double venturi ( vacuum booster to help with the windshield wiper )

This is just a separate piece which screws on to the vacuum inlet port.

Hudson and Essex cars had this as part of original equipment.

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I have stayed away from the big float tanks for many years.  Learned the lesson of difficulty looking for the springs, which always seem to be so fragile and break.  

 

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I did not mean to confuse with  my use of the word arm.

The float has a piece sticking up from it that threads into the holes ( loop ends ) of the valves mounted in the cover.

 

I am in Michigan,  You can call 517 2  six 3  three 6  six  six

if it is convenient.   Leave message if I'm not  immediately available.

 

 

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