ANY PAINT EXPERTS OUT THERE??

I am currently restoring a 1947 Crosley (what else) pickup. Its original color was PPG-DDL-10411 Gem Blue Metallic. I am trying to match it, but the paint dealer tells me that I have to find a more modern number for him to match. I also have paint chip samples. Got any ideas how to proceed??

Most true PPG guys know how to match just about anything as long as you provide them all the specific information they need.

I would shop around till you find someone who knows what they are doing. Some paint store employees just don't want to hassle with it because it's usually a lengthy process to get it right if they don't know what they are doing. Don't expect anyone at Sherwin Williams or your local paint store to be able to deal with PPG matches, go to a PPG specific location if you want it right.

I am currently restoring a 1947 Crosley (what else) pickup. Its original color was PPG-DDL-10411 Gem Blue Metallic. I am trying to match it, but the paint dealer tells me that I have to find a more modern number for him to match. I also have paint chip samples. Got any ideas how to proceed??

Hi, Dave.

I had the same issue years ago. Went to Colours (correct spelling) a few miles from you. Took my 1972 TR6 to them. They had some sort of meter if I recall and matched the color perfectly. I needed only a small amount for the engine compartment. They made up a spray bomb and I still use it when needed.

Colours

4411 5th St. Highway

Temple,PA. 19560

620-929-8131

Regards,

Peter

Dave, DuPont has a service for it's users that will find the "closest match" poss. PPG should have the same service.

You could also try and have the color chip "read" by a color camera that will give a close match, although metallic are not too good of a match due to the different size of the metallic particles.

When you finally receive the paint, it will be up to a experienced painter with the tinting colors to make a good sprayable match by slightly altering the forumular (and keeping track of it).

He will have to do several spray outs before he gets it very close.

Expect to pay for at least 2 to 4 hours for his labor. It may never be the perfect color as the newest tints do not match the old ones.

He may even have to mix several 1/2 pints of paint in the process.

Dave, look on the Internet for the Auto Color Library people at www.autocolorlibrary.com. Look through their site, but better, give them a call. They have color chips back to the teens and before and should be able to match your paint perfectly. I needed correct paint colors and match for my 1928 Durant. They had the paint chips which they scanned and sent me and then when I called mixed up what I needed and shipped it to me. They are a PPG dealer but also sell their own line which is a bit cheaper. Their prices are good and shipping is quick. I will be purchasing more paint from them in the future. Give them a call.

I would suggest finding a shop that had an "in house" mixing system, and a competent painter. I start out by pulling 5 or 10 "variant" or "color" cards, and determine a close color. I'll look up the color formulas to determine the "ingredients" of each. Metallic colors of years ago, typically had a very fine metallic, so I would be looking for those formulas with the finest metallic. Sometimes I will go as far as substitute with all fine metallic, and compensate for the color shift. Finer metallic will make a color appear lighter, when substituted for the heavier ones. I start out with half pints, track the changes, and do spray out cards when close. When I hit the color, I'll make it one quart at a time, for what I need, to ensure the ability to match in the future, if needed. Sometimes you can get "close enough" off the internet, but if you want it as close as possible, I suggest keeping it local.

Just my thoughts,

Jim Herman

I would suggest finding a shop that had an "in house" mixing system, and a competent painter. I start out by pulling 5 or 10 "variant" or "color" cards, and determine a close color. I'll look up the color formulas to determine the "ingredients" of each. Metallic colors of years ago, typically had a very fine metallic, so I would be looking for those formulas with the finest metallic. Sometimes I will go as far as substitute with all fine metallic, and compensate for the color shift. Finer metallic will make a color appear lighter, when substituted for the heavier ones. I start out with half pints, track the changes, and do spray out cards when close. When I hit the color, I'll make it one quart at a time, for what I need, to ensure the ability to match in the future, if needed. Sometimes you can get "close enough" off the internet, but if you want it as close as possible, I suggest keeping it local.

Just my thoughts,

Jim Herman

Very good advice on the metallic size. Do not rely on an instrumental match (it's a spectrophotometer, not a camera) for metallics or pearlescents. Formulae based on obsolete pigments and bases are of little use. Color chip sheets also of little use. Avoid Xirillic special effects - they look like fine metallic in some lighting but flash like a bass boat in others.

I'll add my dittos for autocolorlibrary.com. I have dealt with them several times and always been happy with my purchases.

Not the cheapest but I like their quality.

I have been replaced by a machine and the internet!, lol!

Thanks for all the help. Peter, i will try the place on 5th street!!