32Pontiac6 Posted August 20, 2014 Share Posted August 20, 2014 The attached photos are from my '32 Pontiac that I am restoring. The top portion of the frame has pitting where the front of the body mounts. My guess is that this level of pitting is not unusual or 1932 GM cars because of the way the water would flow from a inadequately sealed from window. My feeling is that this pitting is not severe enough to remove or reinforce. The frame is rock solid with little or no rust except for these areas My feeling is that just filling in the pits for cosmetic reasons would be adequate. Some thoughts from those who have faced this problem, please. Is the pitting minor enough to just fill? If I fill, what would be the best material to fill the holes with? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jpage Posted August 20, 2014 Share Posted August 20, 2014 If the pitting is minor and is hidden then I wouldn't bother with it. If it's bad enough to compromise the strength of the metal the affected section should be replaced or welded up and ground down. If just for aesthetics, pits can be filled with regular body filler, sanded and painted. Judging from the photos I don't think you have anything to worry about structurally. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keiser31 Posted August 20, 2014 Share Posted August 20, 2014 If the pitting is minor and is hidden then I wouldn't bother with it. If it's bad enough to compromise the strength of the metal the affected section should be replaced or welded up and ground down. If just for aesthetics, pits can be filled with regular body filler, sanded and painted. Judging from the photos I don't think you have anything to worry about structurally.I agree wholeheartedly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest counterpoint Posted August 20, 2014 Share Posted August 20, 2014 Looks to be ok to me. I use a filler with short strand fiberglass or an All-Metal filler. Its much stronger and less chance of it cracking as the frame twists. The all-metal filler is tough to sand, so be prepared. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
32Pontiac6 Posted August 21, 2014 Author Share Posted August 21, 2014 Thanks for the input. I am not familiar with All-Metal filler. Do better auto stores sell it or is it something an online supplier has? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest counterpoint Posted August 21, 2014 Share Posted August 21, 2014 Try a body shop supply store. Not a common type of filler. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JustDave Posted August 21, 2014 Share Posted August 21, 2014 also another fix,if you have access to a wire feed welder you can use celica bronze to weld up the pits,grinds easier than steelhell you can easily hand file it,ill have to check my bottles but I believe you have to use helium instead of mixed gas,would be a lot stronger than filler and would last another 80 years, dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest counterpoint Posted August 22, 2014 Share Posted August 22, 2014 i rechecked the name of that filler again. its actually Metal To Metal. not all metal sorry about that Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rusty_OToole Posted August 22, 2014 Share Posted August 22, 2014 They used to take frames like that an cut big lightening holes in them for racing. Some of these race cars are still intact after years of hard, fast driving on dirt tracks and all kinds of racing. So, the metal removed by rust is not critical in your case. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spinneyhill Posted August 22, 2014 Share Posted August 22, 2014 That pitting is in the top flange, which is a compression flange most of the time as the chassis sags between the front and rear axles. It would fail by buckling but is restrained by the body mounted on top. You might like to smooth it (good filler) to prevent water ponding in it later, unless your body mounting pads will fill the pits as they are compressed by the hold-down bolt. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
32Pontiac6 Posted August 29, 2014 Author Share Posted August 29, 2014 Thanks to all for your good advice. It confirms what I had thought but you always like to hear other opinions. I will be back with more questions as the car comes back together! Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
32Pontiac6 Posted August 29, 2014 Author Share Posted August 29, 2014 That pitting is in the top flange, which is a compression flange most of the time as the chassis sags between the front and rear axles. It would fail by buckling but is restrained by the body mounted on top. You might like to smooth it (good filler) to prevent water ponding in it later, unless your body mounting pads will fill the pits as they are compressed by the hold-down bolt.Part of my reasoning for not worrying was the top flange being in compression. But I did not think about the buckling aspect and the fact that the body does act to restrain it at the bolting points. Good catch. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
32Pontiac6 Posted August 29, 2014 Author Share Posted August 29, 2014 They used to take frames like that an cut big lightening holes in them for racing. Some of these race cars are still intact after years of hard, fast driving on dirt tracks and all kinds of racing. So, the metal removed by rust is not critical in your case.Another point I had not thought of! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
32Pontiac6 Posted August 29, 2014 Author Share Posted August 29, 2014 Oh... lastly, if anybody wants to see the progress of the restoration of this car, I have a Facebook page dedicated to it.https://www.facebook.com/pages/1932-Pontiac/113418194556You don't have to have a Facebook account to see. It is a public page. Comments and thoughts on my progress are welcome. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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