Recent purchase '64 - a few quick questions

I have a '64 Wildcat, recently acquired, 75K, from original owner. Going over car, getting ready to attend to immediate needs and have some quick questions (I'm sure more will follow in coming weeks)

1. Radiator appears to have never been out of car and needs repair. Top hose looks newer with recent hose clamps. Lower hose has old, rusted center pull clamps. Concerned over precautions in detatchment of transmission cooling lines. Rusty surface 6 inches from fitting then clean(er) metal. Do not want to create more problems. Fittings are soaking now but do not want to attempt to break them after 50 years if there is a high risk of damage. Advice?

2. How do I identify gen/alt as original?

3. Squeaky U-Joints but no vibration or rumbling. Better to pull shafts and do complete rebuild, including carrier bearing, or just the joints?

Thanks,

Jim

BCA 43102

Chicago, IL

Re: tranny lines. These lines can be very deceptive. Get a "line wrench" to start. If you can get any movement, then rock the fitting back and forth, with some additional PB Blaster shots, each time working the fitting looser. If the line begins to collapse and twist then chances are you will have to cut the end off and patch the line together with a short rubber line and clamps. If you are going for the original look, then order yourself some new transmission lines to begin with and when you get them just snip the old ones off at the fittings and use a 6 point socket on the fittings to get them loose.

I say to wait for the new ones to arrive because then you can pull the old ones out and follow the same line to install the new ones immediately. Can't help you with the drive shaft except I would bet the squeak is coming from the carrier bearing, not the universals.

Take entire drive shaft out and look at everything. If there is squeaking, something is worn. As you disassemble the U-joints and carrier bearing, it will be evident which ones need replacing.

Transmission coolant lines will probably bend and kink, due to dissimilar metals mated to each other. Accept that it is 50 years old and you will probably have to remove the entire line and get a new one bent/fabricated. The other alternative is to cut the coolant line with a hacksaw, and replace the hacksawed segment with fuel injection rubber line that can withstand the pressure of the transmission fluid. I have done it each way; how pretty or perfect you want it to be is up to you and a function of your restoration budget and goals.

Pete Phillips, BCA #7338

1963 Wildcat conv. 4-speed

two 1964 LeSabre 2-dr. hardtops

...and other Buicks

The radiator and heater hoses can bond themselves to the outlet fittings. I always remove the clamp and slice the hose so I can peel it off the fitting. If you twist the hose expecting it to pop off you can loosen the joint of the fitting.

Bernie

Hi,

Whenever possible, when removing metal lines, be sure to use a line wrench and to double-wrench both sections.

--Tom

Thanks to John, Pete, Tom & FlatTop -

New lines are ordered and will have at ready when radiator is removed. Figuring out a safe procedure for lifting and securing car for easy access and removal of drive shaft. Will do shaft first.

Thanks again, advice from the Forum is invaluable and much appreciated.

Jim

BCA 43102

If you end up cutting the steel line, use a tubing cutter...never a hacksaw! You will have a nice neat cut vs a nasty jagged mess with metal particles in the lines. If you are in "destruction mode" and not going to reuse anything, then a Sawzall is your friend .

Willie

If you are going the hose route to connect your home fabricated steel lines you can do step 1 of the double flaring process to make a bulge at the end of the line to do a better job of holding the hose on and keep a potential sharp edge from cutting the hose over time.

Bernie

If you are going the hose route to connect your home fabricated steel lines you can do step 1 of the double flaring process to make a bulge at the end of the line to do a better job of holding the hose on and keep a potential sharp edge from cutting the hose over time.

Bernie

Like!

Update for anyone who is interested and those who have given advice so far: Convertible top is on hold until mechanical needs are addressed. Did learn from Kenny at Midwest Remanufacturing that the top motor is original to the car. Yep... Fifty year old tranny lines did not want to let go of lower rad tank. After soaking and gentle attention, one side finally spun off without a hitch. As expected but not welcomed, the other began to twist and needed to be cut in order to remove radiator for recore. Drive shaft came out easily and the driveline shop was happy to replace the u-joints, carrier bearing, bearing support and balance - in by 9 out by 5. Hoping to have radiator returned by weekend as a drive would be nice on Sunday. Tonight: check fluid level in rearend. There is a leak and I do not know how long this condition has gone unattended. While cleaning prior to spraying with PB, noticed the plug was a little beat-up inside. Is there a better removal technique other than the 3/8" drive of a ratchet or breaker bar? Would like to remove and replace with a square male head rather than female.

Thanks,

Jim

BCA 43102