Brakes, Trying to Get working

Here is what I have, Car has sat with broken rear line for 5 or 6 years, the the brake system pumped the master cylinder dry but not sure if any stayed in it. I have redone all the brake lines from mid car to the rear calipers, so system is finally sealed again. While working on the starting problem all wires to the master cylinder were hooked up. I did unplug the pump lead after awhile. But I would say there system has had the key on many times with with power to the pump. I have tried the master cylinder bleed, but here is what I have. With both the line and accumulator loose, key on pump runs, I get no fluid out of either. I did loosen supply line to pump to make sure fluid was flowing thru it.

So suggestions please on what I can do next? Can the pump be removed separately from the master cylinder? Or its it one setup.? What do you think my luck would be pulling one out of a junk car if the fluid is full and clean looking? If the pump can be separated from master cylinder can it be fixed or rebuilt.

Thank in Advance, You all have helped heaps so far in trying to get this 88 running.

Wayne

I answered some of my own questions if the pump is separate unit thanks to some pictures of the brake down. Thinking of removing it and see what I can do from there. Still looking for any other information that might help.

The pump and switch assembly is held in place by a single bolt and is rubber mounted. Only the steel pressure line, the rubber suction line, the two electrical connections and the bolt need be removed to remove the complete assembly. I had a similar issue with one that sat for an undetermined amount of time with a system much as you describe. The only way I finally got fluid to flow was to apply light pressure (about 15 psi) to the fluid reservoir, much as would be done with a pressure bleeder. Replacement caps are available at a FLAPS and can be tapped for an air fitting. In the absence of low pressure compressed air, a vacuum cleaner exhaust could be necked down and used. A good shop vac. will produce approx. 4 psi of positive pressure. That said, the pump should produce "some" pressure if it does run, however it could be worn enough internally to lack the suction required or attain the shut-off pressure.

Just finished hooking up the parking brakes. So this is what I am going to try. I plan to leave pump in car. Going to use the can (Sump), fuel pump and line I used on my fuel injection cleaning setup. I will flush these with brake fluid, I can then attach the line from the fuel pump to the input of the pump and apply some pressurized brake fluid to the input to see if this works like you did on your car. I do have a good Matco Brake vacuum bleeding setup but do not have the proper top to apply pressure there.

Setup the pump but still no flow thru the pump so far. So now next step is to remove it.

Removed pump and removed motor, lots of brown fluid in there, none of the clean fuild made it into this spot. Cleaned out all holes and blew some air thru it. Motor works and the part it connects to in the pump turn smoothly. Re-installed and still no flow. I guess I will be looking for a replacement pump.

An there is good flow from the reservoir to the pump? There is a filter at the bottom of the reservoir that might be clogged. If fluid gets to the pump, and the impeller is turning with the motor and not spinning in place, it might just be a matter of priming it.

Flow good from reservoir runs out fast when unhooked and and had a fuel pump priming it before I took it apart. I know the motor turns and the impeller tuned free by hand, and when re-assembled I am sure the flat motor end seated into the silver metal plate that mates to the plastic impeller or I don't think it would seat fully together. I am assuming both are turning. I would love to see a blown open picture of the fluid paths in the pump

I would love to see a blown open picture of the fluid paths in the pump

Yes, I imagine there is a check valve between the pump and accumulator that may be stuck in your situation.

As suggested, if you do find one in a yard, pull the whole pump, switch, and accumulator assembly off complete. That way if there is a clogged valve in the block, you will have a replacement for it too.

I vaguely remember someone having a problem with the impeller freewheeling on the motor shaft keeping the pump from pumping anything but certainly not common. Usually if the motor is running it just has lost prime.

A new pump can be found at your FLAPS or on ROJ if you want to go that way.

I pulled the pump and motor again and took it apart, I also removed the Torx plug from right behind the accumulator. Underneith it looks like an incert made of metal with a triangle piece in the middle that can turn. I turned it manually and worked OK. Cleaned and blew air thru all the holes I could find. Then primed what I could with brake fluid and re-assembled. I filled the area where the Torx plug was removed, when installed fluid rose into the accumulator area. Installed back on car. Still not working. Will have to see next weekend what my local junk yard may have. I know they have a 91 Riv. But will have to see what else it there. I have not seen any Reatta's. What other cars might have the same setup. I know it was used on some other European and American cars.

Thank for all the suggestions and help

Wayne

The '88s used a pump/motor different from the '89-90s. The '88 pumps had a flexible line between the pump and the master cylinder. The 89-90s had a steel line.

GM quit using the Teves in '90 and went to Bosch in '91.

I have good pump/motors available but if you can find one in a junk yard, look at Reattas, Rivieras, some larger Buicks and Oldsmobiles and Cadillacs.

Purchased a Pump with motor from Jim. had to move pressure switch from the old pump to put on the new one. That was some work. Installed it and did pump bleed, finally fluid flow. Sealed it up and figured I could bleed rear brakes and also see if I had any leaks from line replacement. Had bleeder tube setup was working on rear with key on, pumping brake pedal some, started hearing whistling air noise, got out and looked big puddle of fluid on floor at left front wheel. Stopped what I was doing, Now have fluid running out of left front and rt rear ( new line ). One heck of a mess. pulled the left front wheel and rusted broken line at the nut. Ok off to get new line for the left front, bought new flex lines for both of the front brakes. The leak I had with new line was my fault, I somehow picked up some lines that were import lines but with different pitched thread, would tighten up but leak. So now replacing 2 more lines again. Now have all correct proper lines. System bled and pressurized, no leaks seen over night. Mess cleaned up, used 4 32 oz bottles of fluid with lots going on the floor. The only original brake lines left on the car is the line from master cylinder to rt front flex line (new) and line from master cylinder for rear brakes going back as far as mid door. Hopefully the brake saga is over, Not sure if ABS works and sensors are good. Now have to replace sway bar links because I found the one on the left front broken. Always something.