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Removing tire from split ring on Series 11


busaf4

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I removed the tire/rim and installed the spare. However I can not figure out how to remove the tire from the rim without destroying the rim. My knowledge on these type of rims is zero. Tire is held in a lot deeper than a clincher bicycle tire and tie irons do not work .It appears that this is probably a split rim (not sure). I have an old rim splitter tool but have no idea how to use it correctly. Pictures of rim and rim tool attached

Two questions:

Can a modern tire dealer handle this without destroying the demountable rim.

Does anyone have pictures how this can be done.

Thanks

Art

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It will help if you can post closeup photos of the split in the rim.

The attachment is a set of instructions to use the "Rim Spreader".

Your best bet in finding a dealer is if your local truck tire shop will do it.

Many trucks still use "Split Rims"

The split rim tool is expandable to fit the rim before you use the crank to expand the rim.

The split rims come in different sizes.

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You have some rust on the latch, try wd-40 or another package to clean the rust.

Click on photo to enlarge:

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On the left side of the latch, you have a tab lock that will turn about 90 degrees.

The rim is designed to separate vertically.

The right side is designed to lift off the left side.

The left side will slip under the right side allowing the two sides of the rim to overlap.

The diameter of the rim will be about 1 to 1 /2 inch shorter.

Use the tire irons to remove the tire like you would a bicycle tire.

You should find a wide rim strip (boot) inside the tire.

It will go between the tube and the rim to keep the rim from poking a hole in the tube.

This has caused me more than a little bit of frustration getting it all back together.

I have found anything less than 4 hands will defiantly bring out the curse words.

Put the tube inside the tire and then place the boot over the tube inside the tire before putting them on the rim.

At this time you can use the rim tool to bring the rim ends together.

I normally resort to a large hammer and big screw driver to do the fine tuning adjustment of the rim ends.

Keep in mind, this "torture" design was preferred for fixing a flat tire when out on the road.

In the 10's and 20's, most roads were gravel & the tubes would get punctured.

When you had 2 flats and one spare, you fixed the tube.

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Thank you all for the help. The old tire came off and the new tire is on the rim.Being able to move the tire on the rim is a big help I found that using silicon and wd40 I was able to move the tire on the rim. Aligning the air valve is tough because when the rim is closed the valve shifts to a 2:00 position. Had to open the rim again, moved the tire assembly so the tube air valve was at the 10:00 position, then closed the rim. The valve moved to the 12:00 position (straight up) exactly where it should be.

Some day my next tire adventure will be my series 9 with clincher wood wheels. I am off to the Trek .

Art

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  • 2 weeks later...

Art, always carry a small bottle of dishwashing liquid and a six pack of beer. This is the magic elixer for any job. The dishwashing liquid for the tire to slip on the rim, and the beer to relax the beast.

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