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1930 Ignition switch replace repair? help!


Guest fkaugusta

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Guest fkaugusta

My 30 ignition switch seems to have finally worn so bad there's intermittent current going through in the ON position. I have no problem with the lever and the key mechanism, just when the lever is UP in the ON position it fails to stay connected thus the engine dies. I see Bob's sells a replacement for the key portion but not the actual switch. I can always bypass the switch with another but would rather use the original. Can the switch be taken apart and the contacts repaired? Is there anyone rebuilding these switches? Any suggestions will be appreciated! Thanks Frank

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Guest fkaugusta

Thanks Mark! I agree, it will need to be removed anyway and I can't do any harm. I'll give your suggestion a try. Also, can you tell me what's involved in replacing the timing and throttle levers located around the horn button? The timing lever is missing (broken off onder bakerlite) and the throttle lever is not connected. Also the end of the headlight control lever is broken off. The bakerlite circular piece is there but broken in half. I can still control the lights and the horn works fine. I see Bob's sells the replacement levers but I have no idea how the steering wheel controls are accessed. It appears the two screws are missing. Probably a bigger job that can be explained here. just thought I'd ask. Thanks Frank

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Frank,

Replacing the levers around the horn button is not too difficult either. Just get the replacement parts before you start and take your time. The levers themselves are easy to replace. It gets more involved if you have to clean or replace the two tubes that operate the light switches and timing. The horn wire also threads inside the tubes and it takes two people to get that assembly together and the timing gear adjusted correctly.

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Guest fkaugusta

Mark, Thanks again for some encouraging advise! At this time I'm not that interested in having them functional. I just want to restore the system for esthetics Actually I can connect the throttle since it does turn at the bottom of the steering column. I doubt I'll need the "advance". The car runs great! My problem is trying to figure out how the steering controls are accessed for replacement? Except for the two missing screws, I can't see anyway to remove the bakerlite to access the levers for replacement! There must be something I'm missing here. I believe the bakerlite piece can be repaired and "as you said" the levers replaced but how do they come out of the steering wheel? Are they released by way of some attachment at the bottom of the column or is there some gadget I'm missing? Posting a couple of pictures. Thanks for your replies, hope I'm not becoming a nuisance! Frank

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If it is similar to the 32 Buick, there are clamping rings on the bottom of the steering gear box that must be loosened and the tube pushed out away from the steering wheel. There are metal spring snubber pieces on the tube that provide tension so the tubes don,t turn freely. Once the tubes are out, you can access screws that hold the levers and the bakelite pieces to the tubes.

I hope my description if adequate to get you on your way with the project.

Bob Engle

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Guest fkaugusta

Thanks Bob (and Mark) for your input, suggestions and images. After comparing the pictures you posted of the 32' assembly, it appears to this Buick "newbie" to be two different animals!

After doing some cleaning and inspection it appears the "pot metal" gears are in good condition with the exception of a small gear attached to the center tube coming out of the sector.I have posted a couple of pictures of my nightmare and if you look closely you can see some of the splines are either worn or striped. I assume that gear either controls the light switches or possibly has some involvement in the entire complex mechanism. :( This engineering differs SO MUCH from the Model A that I'm afraid to even attempt disassembly. It also seems the 1930 Buick is somewhat of a "Redheaded Stepchild"! Bob's inventory seems to stop at the 29' and began again with parts for the 31'. As you probably know there are volumes upon volumes of Model A "how to" publications and of course the Model T "Black Bible" which is the actual mechanic's service manual which even gives the per hour charges for repairs.

So far, I have not found any Buick Service manuals for my 30". All I have are "Buick Reference Book" and "1930 Specifications and Adjustments" neither of which are much help.

Bottom line is I'm trying to evaluate how many areas I can handle and how many I can't. Cosmetics, wiring, etc. will be no problem but items such as this lever issue make me wonder.

Since we are relatively close, just wondering if you know of anyone who can make the repairs I'm needing? Also any service manuals available? Sorry to be so long winded but you and Mark seem to be the "go to" guys for pre-war Buicks and I do appreciate your help! Frank

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you are correct that the early Buicks do not have restoration manuals like the model A's have. Usually the Specifications and adjustments manual describe the operation well enough to indicate what needs to be done for repairs. I would not be intimidated by the gears. If you remove the light switch , I believe you will find some type of clamping device, probably a gear in your case that can be loosened and then the tube can be pushed up to remove the steering wheel parts that you need to access for repairs. Finding the parts you need is a scrounging ordeal. Ebay, BCA tech reps, flea markets and swap meets are a necessary part of repairing old Buicks. I don't know of any Georgia shops for repairs. I can recommend some shops in Virginia that know how to properly repair old cars. Send me a PM if you are interested in that route.

Don't be intimidated with your project. Take lots of digital photos and begin removing parts, taking photos as you go. Your car has gears to convert the turning of the levers on the steering wheel to levers at the gearbox. the 1932 Buick photos show levers where you car will have gears. The gear attachment will have a clamping screw to loosen to remove the tubes going up the center of the steering column. Your light switch looks very similar to the 32 switch. One of the tubes has a key on the bottom end that mates with the switch. e

Let me know haw I can help you with this project. I'll post pictures of the tubes and the parts inside the steering column this weekend.

Bob Engle

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Guest fkaugusta

Thanks Bob. Your comments are encouraging! I'll appreciate any pictures and will take your advise concerning disassembly. In the meantime, my new wiring harness just arrived so I plan to first complete the rewiring. As you can see from the pictures I posted there are worn, brittle and "naked" wires everywhere. that's a safety problem I need to address. Since I have several other questions, I'll send you a PM. It appears your expertise will be VERY helpful to me in evaluating how far I should go with this project. Once again, I appreciate your help and patience! Frank

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Guest fkaugusta

No problem Mark! Been there done that with the Fords so I know what's involved. Have a great meet and be sure to post pictures of any 1930 Buick Coupes that attend!

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These photos are of a 32 Buick, but most years in this period are similar. First photo is of the bottom of the steering column. disconnect wires, Remove the nut on the hex stock post and pull the switch assembly off the column. Second photo is at the top of the steering column with the switch levers and horn button removed. Notice the 2 tubes coming out the top of the steering column. The inner tube is the light switch and the outer tube is the throttle tube. The third photo is the switch and horn assembly. Fourth photo is a side view of the assembly.. Note the clamping screw at the bottom for the throttle tube. Fifth photo is the bottom view of the assembly. Sixth photo shows the light and throttle assemblies separated. Note the clamping screw for the light tube. Last photo is a side view of the light and horn assembly. You can see the horn contact rings to the side.

With the light switch removed, you should see a clamping ring on the switch tube. loosen this clamp and push the tube up the steering column. You can pull the entire tube out the top or loosen the top clamp screw and pull the horn,light switch assembly off the tube.

Back to the bottom, you will need to remove the gears on your assembly and then you should be able to push that tube out the top for disassembly.

Take lots of photos as you take things apart. Be very careful of the diecast parts as they are fragile.

Let me know if this is properly described and photos helpful.

Bob Engle

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Guest fkaugusta

Bob, thanks for taking the time to post these pictures! Very helpful, however, as you said, many differences exist between the 30' and the 32'. Besides the 32' being almost totally rengineered using levers instead of gears, I notice the 32 does not have a third advance/retard timing lever! Apparently the later cars went to an automatic advance ignition system as did Ford in 32'. Interesting! Fortunately it appears the removal process will be similar so your pictures and instructions will be very helpful. After looking through some extra parts that came with the car, I found an extra gear assembly which was removed due to cracking of the diecast gears. Having this unit out of the car definitely helps understanding how everything goes together. Also, the small gear appears to be in excellent condition while what I can see of the one installed looks questionable. Since this assembly seems to be very hard to find, once I'm done it might possibly help someone else who might be missing the entire unit! The parts are pictured below.

Thanks again for your response. I still intend to PM you with a few other questions if you have time.

Frank

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1932 Buicks had a beldin cable pull on the dash for spark advance. Gas was to variable to have a standard spark advance. They do have centrifugal advance in the distributor. The small gear in your photo clamps on one of the tubes.

Bob Engle

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Guest fkaugusta

Bob,Mark I'm trying to get replating estimates. Can you (or anyone) tell me if the black bumper brackets were black or chrome? Thanks

Frank

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I think you may be missing covers that go over the brackets, which are chrome. I'll look when I get home this evening.

Bob,Mark I'm trying to get replating estimates. Can you (or anyone) tell me if the black bumper brackets were black or chrome? Thanks

Frank

[ATTACH=CONFIG]261491[/ATTACH]

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Guest fkaugusta

Thanks Buick64C! beautiful bumpers! Looks like more parts I need under the "hen's teeth" category:(! I do see Bob's offers these covers for the 29' and 31' cars. Just my luck! Since I'm not restoring for show, just as a driver,I wonder which would be a better fit? Appears to me the 31' set will work. Hopefully the guys at Bob's will know! BTW When you get a chance, please post a complete picture of your car. I just don't see many of these on the net! Thanks for the info! Frank

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Guest fkaugusta

Thanks Mark! Beautiful Buicks! I see now the BIG difference in 29' and 31' bumpers. Hopefully the 31' bumper clamps from Bob's pictured above will work on my 30' bumpers.

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Guest fkaugusta

Interesting question, hh! Although I can't speak for Buick I can tell you Ford made several changes at the dealer level. Matter of fact, some Model As arrived by rail without tires! the dealer would add those plus any other options such as adding side mounted spares to provide for a luggage rack. Not only year by year but month by month Henry Ford was notorious for making changes to save production costs! I would assume Buick did the same, judging from a three bar bumper in 29' to the two bar bumpers that followed!

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Bumpers were standard for models and years. Early years, bumpers were an option. Late 20's and early 30's bumpers varied only for spare tire mounts. Rear mount spares had a split bumpers at the rear with a dealer option of a filler piece to look like full bumper. Side mount spares, the cars had one piece bumpers front and rear. Sometime in the mid 30's bumper guards became dealer options. I've noticed with many European 32 Buicks, there are many variations to the body work and bumpers.

Bob Engle

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Guest fkaugusta
Yes, it comes apart rather easily. The copper contacts can be cleaned and the spring can be bent slightly more to provide more positive connections.

Go for it! You will have to remove it anyway.

Mark, thanks to your suggestions my ignition switch works perfect! Also, got the main wiring harness installed! Thanks for the tip!

Frank

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Bumpers were standard for models and years. Early years, bumpers were an option. Late 20's and early 30's bumpers varied only for spare tire mounts. Rear mount spares had a split bumpers at the rear with a dealer option of a filler piece to look like full bumper. Side mount spares, the cars had one piece bumpers front and rear. Sometime in the mid 30's bumper guards became dealer options. I've noticed with many European 32 Buicks, there are many variations to the body work and bumpers.

Bob Engle

Bumpers were a £15 option here for 26

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