Got me one after all these years.....

As far as I know it is the original wheel.

Yup that would be original. Early production too as it is the black and silver circle R. He does have the chrome 16" wheels though.

KDirk

Just to clear some confusion, a factory ANCX will have 3559 printed on the silver label but ED99 will report 3534, not a clue why they are different. The OEM ECM 1988-90 was the -253, those starting with 16- (several) were service replacements. 1991 was different.

Yup that would be original. Early production too as it is the black and silver circle R. He does have the chrome 16" wheels though.

KDirk

Maybe not then, because his production number is 4,293, and it has the whole touch screen CRT, where as my touchscreen and the other one here in my thread have buttons for changing screens.

It also appears that there was a production run change I've discovered in researching parts. My over the shoulder seat belt covers are not held in place by a screw like most of the others after it, but snap in place.

.

Sure about that number ? My 88 is in the 3600s and has the gold center and sunroof. Have to see if it has the metal return line on the Teves.

Think he said #928 (90928) in an early post. If so shouldn't it have suede ?

The Reatta never had the CRT without the border hard buttons. That version was unique to the 86 & 87 Riviera. The earlier version can be used on the Reatta (and the 88/89 Riviera) as it is electrically compatible. The labels on a couple of the border "buttons" are also different and therefore not correctly correlated to their actual function properly on 88/89 models. So, the CRT was apparently substituted.

You are correct on the upper seat belt bezel, the part was reworked to add a mounting screw during 88 production. The early version uses 4 molded in snap mount posts, which break easily on removal. That is the likely reason for the change.

The horn button emblem was changed during 88 production to a full color sunburst. I don't know what the breakpoint was but my early 88 has the black and silver emblem, the later one has the color version. Again, this may be a case of a substitute replacement part.

KDirk

The horn button emblem was changed during 88 production to a full color sunburst. I don't know what the breakpoint was but my early 88 has the black and silver emblem, the later one has the color version. Again, this may be a case of a substitute replacement part.

KDirk

Exactly! On 2nd thought I realized the steering wheel, or horn button, on the later 88 above must have been changed because the production number didn't coincide with the horn button, because it was pointed out as an early car. I'm learning as I go, and that means I kind of have to draw my own conclusions that need correction. It's all good.

Now I assume that the car in post 39 got more Riviera parts such as the rims because of the CRT, being a Riv part. I know that the owner bought the car semi complete and brought it back with whatever he could find. That's all good too, because it's better to see it enjoyed than as another wreck.

Now, as for the seat belt covers, I'm forced to upgrade to the screw in kind, because I assume the early run ones are going to be impossible to find in any colour, let alone in red, because my left one is gone. That too is part of the education.

My apologies for any confusion my education may have caused others.

The early seat belt upper trim bezels without the extra screw hole will be difficult to find as they were on a limited number of cars. Being tan and burgundy seemed to be the most common interior colors in 88 I'd figure they would be more common but still not easy to find.

I would get the ones with the screw holes, as they mount more securely. I've no idea if that would be a point reduction on 400 point judging if yours is an early VIN known to have the non-screw hole pieces originally, but I would be surprised. Both versions were used in 88 so both should be considered correct as far as I'm concerned. The non-screw versions are also an inferior part, which is why they were changed to begin with.

Regarding the CRT, I find it interesting that the 86/87 unit was used in that post 39 car. The correct CRT is easy to find anytime on ebay or from the usual parts vendors. The early non-Reatta version is actually much less common.

Some claim the early one is built better. I've not examined one myself to substantiate that claim, and I have also read that it is more difficult to repair due to non-availability of some parts. That is, perhaps, best treated as conjecture since I have no corroboration of it to present here so "just saying".

It seems the design was revised on customer feed back desiring the 6 major mode (screen) controls to be physical buttons rather than touch pads for ease of use while driving. Again, just what I have hear and/or read, though it makes sense to me.

Anyway, good to see that car was returned to service rather than parted out and crushed. I figure I've saved two from that likely fate now. Would gladly do another if it were practical; presently it isn't. Eventually, perhaps it will be.

One thing about restoring Reattae is that it is a labor of love. I'm not doing it for the money, because - at least currently - there is none to be made on extensively restored Reattas. I get the sense that most here are of the same mindset, and I respect that.

These are cars to restore for enjoyment in long term ownership, as financially, doing so is almost always a loosing proposition. Cost of ownership is generally low once common age and wear items are addressed. Clearly it is wise to start with the cleanest, best maintained example possible. Long running neglect is one of the most expensive problems found in any used car. The Reatta is no exception in that regard.

The Reatta is simply not desired enough to draw big money from collectors who would think nothing of dropping 6 digits at auction on some models that were fully and expertly restored. Maybe that will change eventually. At present, however, no one should be looking at the Reatta as a profitable flip. Seems more than a few people have been burned in the wallet with such a mistaken impression of it's potential.

I do sometimes wonder what became of the cars of members who joined here when undertaking a major repair/restoration of a badly neglected car only to stop posting and disappear after a few weeks or months. I fear they run out of money or motivation and the cars either sits and rots, or get sold for parts and scrap. In 7 years on here, I can think of more than a few such examples and that's a shame. But that is also a common reality in the old car hobby. Some guys bite off more than they can stomach (i.e., time and money required) and end up with a really bad deal. I've dodged a few such bullets myself.

KDirk

Popping in on the note of major repair on a badly neglected car. I'm still here I'm actually driving my quarter million mile pile of potential and have most of the major issues fixed now, thanks in no small part to the forum here. You're right on the money and time note though. I've been keeping my eye out for another cheap one, touchscreen model preferably, but a major repair on these cars isn't for the faint of heart.

In response to the two lastest posts (KDirk and Pontiac dude) I'm still working to keep my 88 coupe from the crusher. I am still working the parking brake issues and then it can be registered and driven. (will still have yellow ABS light but not going to stop me from driving) The rear crossmember has some issues but I can drive it whilst I rebuild my garage than search up another crossmember for it. I've lived in the northest for all but 15 years of my life. A little rust has pretty much always been a part of my daily drivers (only in the last two years do I have myself a newer car) and I'm not put off completely. Not worried about about resale and my thoughts on cars are like the quote I've seen here on the forum about if you don't want to drive it you might as well collect clocks.

Posts 48, 49 and 50 are important and relative points. I've been a car nut since I was 9 yrs. old. Not one car I've collected has ever been considered an investment, but I have learned the art of making free or cheep stuff into money to go into important long term projects.

At a very young age I learned that doing it myself is the most cost effective way to achieve a goal, but out of necessity more than choice. I hired someone to restore an old VW once. I took the cost of restoration and applied it to the price of equipment to do the job and figured out that aside from knowing how to use the tools the cost came out less when you multiply the number of projects I expected to do over a lifetime. I decided that investing in the tools was the way to go. The learning came with the successes and the failures. I may not have a 100% finished ride yet, but I would not trade any of my projects for one whose soul isn't a reflection of my own from doing the work myself.

Does that make sense?

Does that make sense?

Perfect sense!

When I was young I had to learn how to work on my cars because I couldn't afford to pay someone else to do that for me. Now at my advanced age and when I can afford to hire out work, I do most of my own work because I can't find anyone who will do it as well as I can. An investment in good tools is an investment in knowledge.

When I was a yout I wanted a TR3, couln't afford that but a Jag XK-140MC came along. Then I found out why the Jag was cheaper. Still have whitworth wrenchs and have almost learned to ignore oil pressure gauges. Do have a lift in my garage and a sucker for a good 6.

Perfect sense! When I was young I had to learn how to work on my cars because I couldn't afford to pay someone else to do that for me. Now at my advanced age and when I can afford to hire out work' date=' I do most of my own work because I can't find anyone who will do it as well as I can. An investment in good tools is an investment in knowledge.[/quote']

yep! i got my first tool set at age 15 - a Craftsman set that i still have. back in 1970, it cost me $39.95 and included the tool chest. i'd hate to think what it costs now.

if you aren't sure that you are up to most repairs, i'd suggest a "Harbor Freight" set - then get better tools as needed.

i haven't "farmed out" a repair in many years. but have no problem doing so if i can't get-r-done. for a Reatta, the best help is a FSM "Factory Service Manual" and the tutorials on the ROJ website:

http://reattaowner.com/roj/repair-information/repair-tutorials-a-information

Nothing wrong with HF tools as long as you realize just what they are, I keep a basic set in each car "just in case". Of course where I live there are three within 10 miles of my house and am surrounded.

Well, I got to improve a little issue on my console this past week. One of my car's previous owners was a Neanderthal type. If you can't see the fasteners it must snap into place. Wrong, but it snapped out alright. Usually in more pieces than it went in.

One of the victims of the brute was the console. The metal shell was all loose, and I could see a break in the plastic around the shift lever. When I took it apart the main cover was in two pieces under the metal shell. I've used Gorilla Glue on someone else's vehicle to fix dash plastic and figured I had nothing to lose, so it was worth a shot.

The glue worked great, although I didn't really try to break it's bond in a test. Every thing is back in place and holding. The console is a lot less "junky" feeling. I have a good used one on the way, so the fix is just till they get replaced.

The extensive damage caused by forcing things, is amazing. The light board next to the shift lever is broken beyond repair. Don't people ever get that it is only plastic and if you have to use enough force to break the plastic, it must be attached some other way?

The arrows on the second picture show where the cracks occurred. The complete break on the console is between the clamps on the first.

Later that day I connected with 88_Alberta sunroof and we got our cars together for a good visit. Darren's car is number 4292. 3,300 cars newer than mine.

The two cars together drew a small crowd and we got to spread the Reatta Gospel.

Nicely done. Good to see a small impromptu Reatta meetup as well, especially since there are so few of them in Canada.

On that shifter trim and indicator, if you are replacing it with one from another car, you might keep the current one as a spare. I mention this because the EL backlighting in the gear indicator is prone to fail and if your current one is good, it would be a good idea to keep it on hand. If it doesn't work, then probably not as important to retain it.

I'm working on the console on my scrubby 88 now, the aluminum trim has some superficial scratches and nicks. Not having found near mint replacments (yet anyway) I have opted to refurbish the existing parts. I found wet sanding with a 3000 grit pad followed by a #0000 scotch-brite takes out some minor defects without removing the charcoal color anodized onto the aluminum (provided you don't get over zealous).

Then I clearcoated with Krylon matte clear finish (two thin coats). This made a vast improvement in appearance by masking many of the light scratches and tick marks without changing the color or the sheen too much. Thought I'd pass that along in case you were facing the same problem.

KDirk

That's great info KDirk, I took care of some of the dings on that aluminum casing, that you sanded on yours, when that was separated from the broken plastic. It had peripheral damage from breaking out. All I did was push the dents out from the back side with a small screw driver and a pick. That casing is thin enough it only took slight pressure.

If and when my parts order comes, I may go beyond the anodizing on the repaired one just to see what is under it and if there will be a way to reproduce it.

My shift position indicator is non-functioning, that's the main reason I ordered another one.

The owner of the 88 sunroof showed me a picture of another Reatta he saw in Calgary, the closest big city to us. I'm 40 miles North and he is 20 miles North so maybe a three car meet is in the distant future.

Got a load of parts for my car, so there is going to be some more to report over the next few months, weather permitting. I say that because we just had an early snow fall the last couple of days. If the ground temperature hadn't melted it as it accumulated we'd have over a foot of it. It's melting now and I'm hoping that's it for a while, because I've got lots to do, you never know around here.

Here's today's little project. I found a replacement for my broken right reflector, so I swapped it out today. It's a small step in the right direction.

This was Before.

Being that much of our cars are made of plastic, I thought I would share a fix that I just performed on a seat belt cover I received.

My left side seatbelt cover was non-existent so I ordered a used replacement. The replacement had one and a half out of three of the pins left on it. The first covers on 88 Reattas used these pins to attach the covers to the interior panels. I'm betting that due to negative feedback from dealers they screwed these in after about the first 1000 cars, give or take a few.

My car doesn't have a place to screw these to, so I kind of need these pins. Fortunately the remnants of a few pins were still in the receivers in the panel they attach to. After fishing them out I performed the following repair.

First I drilled down the center of the broken stud on the back side of the cover.

Care and a sharp drill bit is needed here, you'll find that by tilting the bit at the start you can actually steer the tip to get the hole dead center. Don't drill right through your part. Practice on a less important part is recommended. I started my hole by twisting the drill bit with my fingers to get a good start.

Next I drilled down the center of the old pin, stopping before drilling right through, then found a nail that was a snug fit for the hole.

After trimming the nail down I applied Gorilla glue to the pin end of the nail then the other and inserted the stud back onto the cover. I let the part sit over night before re-installing the cover. Remember to make sure the finished length matches the other studs. Those little receivers are only so deep.

I've also applied this fix to a broken stud on a tail light reflector.

Hope this helps another save some hard to find parts.

Nice work! Thanks for sharing.

Here is the difference between the seatbelt covers I was talking about.

If anyone has a match to the upper one, but for the left side, I'm interesting in buying it.

PS,

Very well done Sir.

I appreciate the photos!

John F,

Nicely done repair there. I've done similar on mine (though all have the center screw).

Fyi, the later part with the screw was installed by driving the screw directly into the inner sheetmetal of the rear pillar. No special provision was made (speed nut, plastic anchor etc.)

KDirk

Mr. Pensive:

I agree with the others that you have done a nice job with the repair and the write-up! May I suggest that it will be easier for others to see/find this tutorial if it could be set up as a new post? Thanks!

News flash- New message shows up on my dash that I've never seen before, "NO MALFUNCTIONS".

Now the details. Did lots of searching for similar problems here on the forum, found threads pointing to cam sensor. Read everything I could find on cam sensor. Learned good test for the interrupter magnet on the cam gear. Ordered parts to do a deep interrupter change, and started tearing in to do a timing chain inspection, etc.

Did the interrupter test as I went along to confirm how deep the tear down was going to be, compared the new interrupter's magnetic strength to the old one still in the car. The old one was still completely intact, so I stuck a light nail into the sensor hole. Its magnetism was very (almost none) week. I weighed the pros and cons of doing the changeover using the access through the sensor hole. After reading about one falling out and another tensioner that needed replacement after the chain cover was removed, I decided a deep repair was the way for me. Sure enough, when the cover came off the tensioner was obviously beyond continuing service, as a matter of fact, it fell apart while removing it (meaning the rubber guide separated from the arm), let alone the extreme wear on it.

I intended to document the procedure but I got engrossed in the job at hand and forgot all about pictures. I am really sorry about that, I had good intentions. But as I said, when the job was done and I saw the "no malfunctions" message, and the absence of the service engine light I was beyond ecstatic. I went out and peeled a little rubber and now look forward to a highway trip, so I can see how much improved the mileage will be.

Special thanks to those who respond on the forum with your wisdom and contributions. I could not have done this without you.

News flash- New message shows up on my dash that I've never seen before, "NO MALFUNCTIONS".

BE AFRAID, BE VERY AFRAID!

Good work. Think many of us have the same intentions of getting photos, but when the wrenches are turning and grease gets everywhere, the camera gets left behind.

Enjoy your new "Warning"

I may have another chance to take pictures yet. I'm thinking of taking it all back apart again. I've got that annoying rattle in the serpentine belt system just like drtidmore in this thread: http://forums.aaca.org/f116/memorial-day-mystery-noise-372993.html

I didn't have a torque wrench at the time I put on the harmonic balancer when I re-assembled the timing chain cover. I put the balancer on and tightened it with my air wrench until I could get a torque wrench. I drove it 80 miles before I was able to borrow a torque wrench of suitable size. I found the bolt over tight so I torqued to proper spec and that's when this noise started.

Video here: http://youtu.be/zByIHguMdmY

Now I've replaced the tensioner pulley and a brand new water pump. No change. The balancer is in good condition. I looked it over good when it was off.

BE AFRAID, BE VERY AFRAID!

Did you jinx me Mc_Reatta?

It sounds like the balancer is hitting one of the blades of the sensor.

I'll check that out and let you know. A friend of mine has a new harmonic balancer he will let me try too. He had it on his 89 Buick before the trans went.

So, here I am almost a week later and I'm more educated. I checked the cam sensor adjustment. There is a sweet spot from under the car that you can see the cam sensor alignment in relation to the timing ring on the back side of the HB, when back lit from the top. All is well, dead on center.

Went to the auto wreckers twice this week to get a harmonic balancer. Finally got one off on Wednesday but it won't work, too knew. Going back today to exchange it for the right year.

I did finally get a good hold on the HB while under the car and can see the noise maker. The rubber on the HB is too soft, allowing too much movement. There are a couple of cast ears behind the balancer's outer ring, that touch a plate cast into the main body, when the outside ring moves the ears hit the plates on the main crank assembly, making the awful rattle.

Now I know how to find a good balancer and will get this resolved.

I also upgraded to the Delco coil pack. Thanks again to the information here. Cheers guys.

PS,

If it were me (and it has been) I would install a new one rather than face the possibility of having to change it out again in the not too distant future because of the limited life left on a used one. Will post pics of a used one later.

John F.

Got a good harmonic balancer today. Noise is gone. Here is the backside of my old one and I've marked the contact point with an arrow. There is even dust around the tab from the contact.

Putting in a used one is a matter of economics. I just spent a chunk on the timing chain tensioner, timing sensor, interrupter, water pump and serpentine tensioner pulley. I've got the swap out time down to about half an hour. Used balancer cost me $25. Selecting a good used one is pretty simple. Get one with no cracks in the rubber, and if there is any play between the outer ring and the crank mount, don't buy it. Now that the problem is solved. I think it was money well spent. I do respect your opinion though, and I would have bought a new one if money wasn't so tight. Thanks for the input.

PS,

Sorry about that. It's easy to spend other peoples money now ain't it?

Believe me, I understand that discretionary income only goes so far and sometimes a guy's gotta do, what a guy's gotta do.

John F.

Hey no problem. At least an HB is less likely to catastrophically fail, and I know now what a bad one sounds like.

Just a quick note to let everyone know that my car drives better than ever, and is more enjoyable than ever, now that it is quiet again. I drove it long distance with a passenger that I took for a run when I first got it, and he noticed the difference.

It's getting colder here, so not much wrenching outdoors, I fear I'll have to be driving in the white stuff soon. Not much I can do about that.

I've been contemplating taking my dimmer switch out to trouble shoot the dash light brightness, no adjustment ability via the CRT either, is there anything repairable inside the slider itself?

Do the test for the photo sensor on ROJ. The cds ones from Radio shack are under $5 for 5 of mixed size use the middle one there are 2 the same in the bag.

Wow! Can't believe months have passed since checking in. My time has been spent mostly on a derelict 72 F100 4X4 I picked up for a hundred bucks. It is now my "around town daily" vehicle, saving the Buick from the horrors of driving salted roads.

The Buick has been used for out of town driving a little, but gets an immediate top and bottom bath afterwards. The snow has been melting more than accumulating so it's going to be time to think about improving the Reatta some more.

I've picked up some black paint for future attention to the exterior looks department. A month or two ago I scored some burgundy leather out of a Caddy to repair my seats when the time comes. I found Johnson's boot and shoe polish, burgundy 145, is ideal for restoring the colour of faded portions of my seats that are not torn.

One thing making driving my car a little less enjoyable at the moment is a "Climate Sensor Fault" alarm that goes off every few minutes. Interior temperature and climate control is un-effected, so I'm hoping for some feedback as to diagnosing, if I just need to replace the exterior sensor or if it may be a deeper problem.

Any thoughts?

P.S. - you'll probably get more responses if you start a new thread on the "Climate Sensor Fault" alarm.

Sensor fault turned out to be poor contact at the plug. The rubber seal was so dry the plug wouldn't go in all the way. A little lube and it seated properly. Now everything is working once again.

I was so excited the day I discovered this I decided to put the original rims back in play. I swapped them out for the Olds rims and went for some new Firestones. Wow are those Stones ever quiet. If not for wind noise I'd think I was at home in my living room.

On the way to the tire shop I lost an emblem off one center cap, oh well, the hunt is on again. Checked Ebay and found a pair of caps for $30, score. After another $45 for shipping and dollar exchange, they are on their way.

When the weather is nice again I'll snap some shots of it with it's original wheels.