Speedo. Cable Lube--How much is enought?

Guys, dumb question, but this is the first time I've done this project, so please bare with me.

I recently had my speedo. head re-built, found out old one was pretty much jammed up from no use for who knows how long. I also replaced the cable as old one had broken and become a twirled up mess inside the cable jacket. It's been cut to proper length per the shop manual. Yesterday, I used some white lithium grease on the cable, ran it down the housing jacket and re-attached at bottom end to tranny. and to top end at speedo. Everything engaged fine, however on first trial, I had a lot of ticking and some needle jump. Sounded like an old typewriter. Well, pulled the cable, applied more grease; second run, almost no ticking, initially, and less needle jump. Shortly after, ticking came back, and again had some needle jump.

Before I contact the re-builder, and sound like an idiot to him too, exactly how much grease should I use? I also remember reading not to lube like the top 1/3 of the cable, which I didn't...does that only apply when using the OE graphite/grease lube? The article mentioned if using too much of the graphite lube, it works back into the speedo. head and makes a mess.

Not looking forward to burying my hands back into 60 year old insulation, but I'll pull the speedo again if need be. I found it's easier to pull the cable with the gauge dropped down out of the way and able to pull the cable straight out the hole in the dash.

Thanks!

You have enough lube, but don't mess with replacing just the cable...replace the whole assembly.

Tank, thanks. Will try to lube one more time, and if I'm still getting the ticking, I'll replace the entire cable assembly. Prior broken cable may have caused some weird wear marks or a burr on the inside of the tube. I tried to go the $10 repair route vice the $30+ something replacement. I think I also went with just the replacement internal cable because the assembly is routed thru a grommet in the cowl along with (if memory serves) the engine bay wiring harness that I couldn't figure out how it comes apart.

Fixed!! When the Shop Manual notes to have an installed cable length of 68-5/8", they mean, 68-5/8"!! Giving this a last ditch effort yesterday, I again pulled the cable out of the assembly tube. Laying it out carefully next to a shop rule, I found that when I cut the new cable to length and installed the tip, my cable was measuring in at a hair over 68-6/8". As there is no way remove the new tip once is't installed, out came the Dremel and 1/8" came off of the factory pressed end. Now cut to a hair under the 68-5/8" mark, I greased it up good, slid the cable back down in the assembly, tightened up both ends and went for a quick spin. No detectable clicking and a lot less needle waiver. It still bumps up and down a bit, but it's only 1 or 2 MPH, nothing like before.

Hmmm. Interesting.

I'll keep that in mind.