flh73 Posted July 16, 2014 Share Posted July 16, 2014 My 63 Riv 401 has a cracked block. This engine is not original however the change was done many years ago professionally as everything seems to be in order and original there after. Crack was Known when purchased. I have struggled to find a block or engine but finally have located ( local) a 66 block with some pitted rust in cylinder may cleanup @.040 over bore. I have also located a complete 66 engine (same source). If I rebuild my engine I keep the dyna flow trans etc. if I swap to newer engine I have to change trans to the st400 etc. Any thoughts, suggestions, opinions?prices for better understanding. Block $400 + machining, parts (pistons, ext. valve, etc.) I can assemble. Engine carb down $2400 used but freshened up with lifters, timing set, distributer, flushed and cleaned oil pan etc.NEW rebuilt 63 401 $3222.50 to my door. thanks for the helpGary Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RivNut Posted July 16, 2014 Share Posted July 16, 2014 If the crank in your '63 is good, you can use it and the flexplate in the '66 block and everything will work as if it were a '63 block and you wont' have to mess with a trans swap and everything associated with that. If your '63 heads, (66 heads have valve seals on the intake valves) carb and intake are in good shape, I'd use them as well. That way you'll have the correct vacuum fittings, and the correct carb for the Dynaflow's kickdown. Other than that, I'd use the '63 water crossover pipe (thermostat housing) just because the '66 looks different. That's only a cosmetic matter.Ed Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lrlforfun Posted July 19, 2014 Share Posted July 19, 2014 OK Flh: I suggest NOT using that 66 block for several reasons. First a cracked block can be repaired but at additional expense. Second .40 over is too much meet off a nail head, especially a 425 and thirdly, even though these things don't grow on trees the magic combination you want is out there in your area too. It just takes a bit of tenacity to find that sweet spot. Perhaps it might work but in the end you have a Frankenstein car. Find a full size 62 or 63 Buick that runs good and harvest that engine....have it rebuilt. Yes, I'm spending your hard earned money. And yes, if you hire a competent machine shop you will have a nice running car for years to come. By slim chance if there are any problems and they will stand behind their work. Mitch Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest DRM500RUBYZR1 Posted July 19, 2014 Share Posted July 19, 2014 Write the check.buy the new rebuilt proper 401 for the $ 3,222.50.Rebuilding anything that you find if done by a quality shop will set you back near that much anyway.Even if you found a good car with a good engine, why put all of that on your plate as well?if you put in something that is not recently rebuilt you will likely need to deal with it later on, which is silly.write the check install the nice new engine, and then continue as planned.You get what you pay for,or as I say more often, you don't get what you don't pay forI of course am operating under the assumption that the new 401 was rebuilt by someone fully knowledgable on rebuilding these engines properly.write the check and make up for it by doing other things yourself.Historically,every time that I have tried to save money by going the seemingly less expensive route, I usually end up either spending as much or more in the long run, or I am disappointed with a lesser outcome, and oftentimes, both.write the check.Good luck! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill Stoneberg Posted July 19, 2014 Share Posted July 19, 2014 If I could have found a rebuilt 401 or 425 for that price, I would have done it. It cost me at least that much to redo mine.1500 machining and another 1500 in hard parts.Then my labor for R & R the engine plus bulding the engine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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