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1950 Buick Super 4door


Guest v8andersson

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Guest v8andersson

Hi there folks!

My name is Henrik and I have just joined AAC, cause it feels like I belong there :D

Yesterday my beauty (or is it a beast) Buick Super 1959 arrived to Sweden (where I live) from L.A.

Ever since I saw this Buick a lot if ideas have been flying through my head. All from doing almost nothing to it....to everything, then I think of air-rides, re-paint, re-chrome....nice lowrider..

But now when I stand next to it I just adore it. Well the paint is not the best, but it got potential. I will focus on make it run smoothly first, then fix the interior. The rest...well we will find out along the road.

I am totally new to a straight eight. I have only owned V8 before, but I must say - I Love this Straight Eight. It is cool and powerful!! What a remarkable machinery.

I'm not a professional mechanic either - but I hope to learn along the way and with some guiding from you my dear friends :)

First I will make it stop, since the breaks only have about 5%. :(

Then I will make it run smoothly. :cool:

Automatic transmission:

In the transmission I do not have any Parking(P). Meaning, the Buick will roll away if I do not put in Drive(D). Could it simply be the case that I am low of transmission-fluid.

Question: If anyone have information about what the cause of this could be are welcome to send me some information.

Question: Is it any specific type of transmission-fluid to use. Is it ok to use those cans with fluid that will make the transmission gaskets soft and maybe seal it up so it not leak. Or could I cause more damage to it using that?

Engine:

I also noticed on the right hand side of the engine (almost at the front and far down) that there is a pipe coming out and lead the smoke from engine out to nowhere.

Question: Should there not be a tube connected to this pipe to send that exhaust into the engine again? ( I will post image of this when I come to that part - but if anyone already know what it is...feel free to reply. )

Brakes.

Question:

Is there somewhere that a complete new set of Master cylinder, brake lines, and all things at the wheels could be bought? Cause when it comes to the brakes - I find no room for mistakes :)

I do not want to put this beast into the wall caused by failure of brakes.

Well, this is the start of a long journey. I will keep this thread updated with my steps forward in whatever direction my crazy mind will take them.

See you all! :cool:

Henrik

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Henrik,

You have a 1950 Super Riviera Sedan, model #52. Congratulations on having a good grille and good parking light housings--most of them are rusted out or dented or both. Bob's Automobilia in California sells all of the brake parts you will need. Also, CARS, Inc. in New Jersey has the parts. Both of these companies advertise in the Buick Bugle magazine, which you would receive if you join the Buick Club of America--we have many European members. www.buickclub.org

Making the transmission gaskets softer is probably a good idea. The car takes Type A transmission fluid. Dexron is about the same, since Type A is hard to find.

If the car rolls when in "P", that has nothing to do with the level of transmission fluid. It can mean that the little pawl or sprag in the transmission is broken, or perhaps the shift lever can be out of adjustment (if other gears do not act properly when the transmission indicator says you are in that gear). Most likely it is a broken pawl, caused by someone putting the car into "P" when the car was still rolling.

Good luck, welcome, and come back here when you need more help or advice. I have a 1950 Buick Roadmaster.

Pete Phillips, BCA #7338

Leonard, Texas

P.S.: Most of us here will try to talk you out of making modifications to your Buick (air ride, 12 volt electrical systems, disc brakes--all not necessary and can hurt the value of the car in my opinion)

Edited by Pete Phillips (see edit history)
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The tube you talk about is the Road draft tube, precursor to the PCV. It lets engines emissions into the air with along with methane from cows, pollutes the atmosphere and leads to global warming. It is supposed to be there as we didn't know any better back then.

As far as modifications to your car, we all have different opinions, do what you want to do to make it the car you want and one you will drive. The best looking car and most perfect car in the world is no good sitting in the garage not being driven.

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Welcome Henrik. Just a note: The car can still roll away while leaving it in Drive with the motor off. The best thing to do is make sure the parking brake works and carry 2 "chocks" with you till you get the "park" situation addressed. Good luck. A California car is usually a great place to start as those cars usually have less rust issues.

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Amen to this entire post. Couldn't agree more.

The tube you talk about is the Road draft tube, precursor to the PCV. It lets engines emissions into the air with along with methane from cows, pollutes the atmosphere and leads to global warming. It is supposed to be there as we didn't know any better back then.

As far as modifications to your car, we all have different opinions, do what you want to do to make it the car you want and one you will drive. The best looking car and most perfect car in the world is no good sitting in the garage not being driven.

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Guest v8andersson

Hi All

Thankyou very much for your feedback! This is really the place to be. Good friends all around with great information. And now I also know what type of Buick I've bought :). THAT is a good start - when ordering parts.

I must say that I love those cars from late 40's and early 50's that are lowered, but when I got this baby into my barn I just smiled! I love it as it is. It is solid, even if there are some plastic-padding that have been used in a weird way, but that I might later remove, and get the plate back in its original shape - and maybe new paint some day. But first things first: 1 Get it to stop, 2 Get it to run :D

See you later!!

Henrik

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Guest v8andersson
The tube you talk about is the Road draft tube, precursor to the PCV. It lets engines emissions into the air with along with methane from cows, pollutes the atmosphere and leads to global warming. It is supposed to be there as we didn't know any better back then.

As far as modifications to your car, we all have different opinions, do what you want to do to make it the car you want and one you will drive. The best looking car and most perfect car in the world is no good sitting in the garage not being driven.

That was a very straight forward description :). Even if it is not good for the nature, I found your description very amusing, cause it was like go back in time....and "well we did not know any better back then" :)

/Henrik

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Guest v8andersson
Henrik,

You have a 1950 Super Riviera Sedan, model #52. Congratulations on having a good grille and good parking light housings--most of them are rusted out or dented or both. Bob's Automobilia in California sells all of the brake parts you will need. Also, CARS, Inc. in New Jersey has the parts. Both of these companies advertise in the Buick Bugle magazine, which you would receive if you join the Buick Club of America--we have many European members. www.buickclub.org

Making the transmission gaskets softer is probably a good idea. The car takes Type A transmission fluid. Dexron is about the same, since Type A is hard to find.

If the car rolls when in "P", that has nothing to do with the level of transmission fluid. It can mean that the little pawl or sprag in the transmission is broken, or perhaps the shift lever can be out of adjustment (if other gears do not act properly when the transmission indicator says you are in that gear). Most likely it is a broken pawl, caused by someone putting the car into "P" when the car was still rolling.

Good luck, welcome, and come back here when you need more help or advice. I have a 1950 Buick Roadmaster.

Pete Phillips, BCA #7338

Leonard, Texas

P.S.: Most of us here will try to talk you out of making modifications to your Buick (air ride, 12 volt electrical systems, disc brakes--all not necessary and can hurt the value of the car in my opinion)

Hi Pete

Thankyou very much for your information. I'm amazed and happy there are so many places for finding parts and information about these old beauties.

Question: Is the engine the same for all Buick 50's or are they different when it comes to ordering parts?

Anything else you think I should know before starting to order new parts?

/Henrik

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Guest v8andersson
Welcome Henrik. Just a note: The car can still roll away while leaving it in Drive with the motor off. The best thing to do is make sure the parking brake works and carry 2 "chocks" with you till you get the "park" situation addressed. Good luck. A California car is usually a great place to start as those cars usually have less rust issues.

Hi John, thankyou for feeeback.

Yes it seem not to be that much rust on it. But since there have been a few fixings of the body that have been smashed here and there... it need some love to get it fixed :)

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Guest v8andersson
Can you post a picture of the brake cylinder lid that's stuck? I have never owned one of these particular cars and ideas don't flow for how to get at that cap.

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Here the little fellow has hide itself :)

I've tried to warm it up a little - no luck

Tried with some grease that will remove rust and smoothen up...but no luck.

/Henrik

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Guest v8andersson

Some photos from the engine - as-is. If you notice something strange, please let me know.

I only know what is there - Not what is supposed to be there :D

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Henrik,

There are 3 engines from the 1950 Buicks. A 248 cu / in that were in Specials, a 263 cu / in that were in the supers and a 320 cu / in that were in Roadmasters.

You have a Super so you will have the 263. You also have the Dynaflow (auto transmission) so you will hydraulic lifters as opposed to mechanical. That is what you will need to know to orser most parts.

As far as your engine, it looks greenish in the pictures when it should be a Turqoise color, the oild filter should be a blue bottom and orange top, you are missing the spark plug cover and the fgas filter is incorrect. Where is the Air cleaner, I hope its just been taken off and that you have it.

None of this makes any difference unless you want to change it to be correct. I would put some kind of air cleaner on though.

When I was restoring my car, I bought brake linse for classic tubing and had my master clyinder resleeved by White Post Restorations. Rest of the parts I got from Bob's Automobile. I find them better for this era of car then some other suppliers. http://bobsautomobilia.com/shop/

Have fun and enjoy the journey.

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Guest v8andersson
Henrik,

There are 3 engines from the 1950 Buicks. A 248 cu / in that were in Specials, a 263 cu / in that were in the supers and a 320 cu / in that were in Roadmasters.

You have a Super so you will have the 263. You also have the Dynaflow (auto transmission) so you will hydraulic lifters as opposed to mechanical. That is what you will need to know to orser most parts.

As far as your engine, it looks greenish in the pictures when it should be a Turqoise color, the oild filter should be a blue bottom and orange top, you are missing the spark plug cover and the fgas filter is incorrect. Where is the Air cleaner, I hope its just been taken off and that you have it.

None of this makes any difference unless you want to change it to be correct. I would put some kind of air cleaner on though.

When I was restoring my car, I bought brake linse for classic tubing and had my master clyinder resleeved by White Post Restorations. Rest of the parts I got from Bob's Automobile. I find them better for this era of car then some other suppliers. http://bobsautomobilia.com/shop/

Have fun and enjoy the journey.

Hi Bill - thankyou for your feedback!

Air cleaner - Missning, does anyone sell these. Or is it only the filters that are sold?

Oil filter - Which one is that (stupied question - but Im used to those that are white on Pontiac 389 engine ) ?

Gas filter - Are there specific retro gas filter for this available?

This will be a long journey - but a hell of a ride :)

/Henrik

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Henrik, I would get a 6 point socket that fits, ( looks like a 3/4 or 5/8th's) and a long extension ( I would also do this with a 3/8's breaker bar and a decent hammer. Put the wrench on the nut and then tap the back of the breaker bar right on top of the extension /breakerbar joint while trying to loosen the cap.

Using the 3/8's breaker bar will help prevent over torqueing the cap. And if at all possible, get a helper. One guy holds the wrench straight vertically and pulls on the breaker bar while the 2nd wields the hammer. Repeated light taps with a 2 lb hammer may help break the rust holding it together. Do not go overboard hammering or wrenching. That part should be firmly attached to the frame, but you don't want to break the cap or rip the unit away from it's mount. Also make sure you are turning it counter clockwise.

And now another piece of unsolicited advice. Get a battery cut off switch and install it on the negative terminal. As you can see in the pictures, your wiring is deteriorated to a dangerous level. Never, and I do mean N E V E R , leave the battery connected while you are not right there with the car. And consider replacing the wiring system as soon as possible. One wire like that pretty much means all the wires are like that. It is a fire just waiting to happen, not to mention potential for what might become unsolvable electrical failures.

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Henrick, I've got a '50 Special, the baby brother to the Super. Some parts carryover from the Special to the Super, but definitely more cross between the Super and Roadmaster. Yes, you have the 263 engine.

Get an original or repro. shop manual. Many vendors and can even be purchased on CD-Rom.

The Oil Filter is seen in your picture located up to the front right of the engine near the radiator. Changing the oil on these cars is actually pretty easy because the oil filter canister may have a drain plug at the bottom that allows you to remove (most) of the oil from the canister before putting in a fresh filter. This will depend on the particular unit on your car. I've also seen what looks like the same canister housing but without the drain plug at the bottom, if so, the remaining oil (after taking out the filter) can be removed by using a plastic bulb-type baster available at a home/cooking store. The top of the canister has a bolt on it that loosens the lid. There should be a gasket between the lid and the canister body. The oil from the entire engine is drained via the drain plug at the bottom of the oil pan.

Fuel Filter...what you have will work fine, however, if you want to change over to "original style", the filter will have a glass bowl and a ceramic/stone filter element. I've got one on mine, very easy to clean. The glass bowl usually threads into the metal body like a jar and is then held in place with a metal loop that swings down underneath the glass. There are a few general styles. Come up on eBay quite often. Carter made a lot of them. This link shows three different styles... http://www.ebay.com/itm/Lot-of-3-Misc-Carter-Fuel-Filter-Glass-Assemblies-/161348986597?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item25912626e5&vxp=mtr

Air Cleaner...those come up on eBay pretty often. http://www.ebay.com/itm/1950-53-Buick-Air-Cleaner-/400626187070?pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item5d472e7b3e&vxp=mtr

That link is for representation purposes...I've seen them WAY cheaper than that. They're the oil bath type meaning that the "bowl" is filled with 50w oil. There will be a big metal ring shaped element that sits inside sandwiched between the top half and the bottom removable bowl. The element, at least on mine, is filled with metal strip/filings. Both the element and bowl can be emptied and cleaned routinely. The other big part that looks like a muffler is called the "Silencer" which I guess quiets the sound of the air as it flows into the carb. The small end of the cleaner clamps to the top of the carb., the big center muffler section clamps to the top of the valve cover with a large band clamp onto the support that is visible in your pic.

Spark Plug Cover. This link shows what it's supposed to look like. http://www.ebay.com/itm/1946-1953-Buick-Super-Special-Spark-Plug-Cover-with-Original-Nuts-/371102269467?pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Year%3A1950%7CMake%3ABuick&hash=item56676b401b&vxp=mtr

I still want to put some fresh Tranny fluid in mine, but yes, I believe the Dexron type is the current available ATF out there that works with the Dynaflow.

I agree with the others on your slipping from Park issue. The Shop Manual covers adjustment and/or repairs that may be required. The Dynaflow repair manual, a separate book from the Shop Manual, also covers adjustments/repairs a little more extensively.

Let me know if you've got any other questions. I'm in the process of putting mine back together. Prior owner tore car down, repainted, and then gave-up putting it back together. A lot of my knowledge has been gained from reading posts on this forum, scouring the internet for reference pictures, and of course putting down some cash for the books. I don't mind scanning parts of the manuals. Some have done it for me, and I've repaid the favor.

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  • 2 weeks later...
Guest v8andersson
Henrick, I've got a '50 Special, the baby brother to the Super. Some parts carryover from the Special to the Super, but definitely more cross between the Super and Roadmaster. Yes, you have the 263 engine.

....

I still want to put some fresh Tranny fluid in mine, but yes, I believe the Dexron type is the current available ATF out there that works with the Dynaflow.

I agree with the others on your slipping from Park issue. The Shop Manual covers adjustment and/or repairs that may be required. The Dynaflow repair manual, a separate book from the Shop Manual, also covers adjustments/repairs a little more extensively.

Let me know if you've got any other questions. I'm in the process of putting mine back together. Prior owner tore car down, repainted, and then gave-up putting it back together. A lot of my knowledge has been gained from reading posts on this forum, scouring the internet for reference pictures, and of course putting down some cash for the books. I don't mind scanning parts of the manuals. Some have done it for me, and I've repaid the favor.

Hi

Thankyou for your feedback!!

Sparkplug-cover purchased :)

/Henrik

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Guest v8andersson

Hi All

Now I have done a checkup on the whole car.

The status is somewhat worse then I had expected:

- Transmission (rebuild probably needed) Question: What to think about when removing this, which steps to be taken, what parts should be rememoved (is it transmission together with converter), what to loosen first....

- Rear axle, right side, bleeding so fluid drip out at the brake-drum and sipper out on the wheel Question: Which part should be fixed here. Do I need to tear down all of the rear axle, or is it only some parts that might be switched?

- Gas-tank looks pretty bad. It is fixed, but I sure would like a newer one (for safty) Question: Do you know where these can be ordered?

- Side-windows are cracked, new once ordered Question: Any information about how to remove old and put in new glass in doors?

- 3 doors problems with lock

- drivers door misfit

- rust in floor badly fixed

- Interior missing (door panels, roof-fabric, sofa front back bad shape) Question: Any info about door panels and what to use in the roof?

My o my

Will be much to do this winter!

But I love this car....but it need a LOT of love!!

Best reg

Henrik

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I can give you a run down on how to take out the side windows. Not too hard, but you'll need to take your time... First step is to remove the door panels and take a look inside, there's not much in there mechanically so you may be able to figure it out without the write-up. Instead of writing out the full project here, I'll try to put it in a Word.doc or separate e-mail.

There are a lot of places that sell headliner, seat cover, and door panel material online. LeBaron Bonney here in Massachusetts sells full kits, there are quite a few others as well. I need to recover my door panels as well, but may do something a bit more custom than original but probably keeping to the same style/lines of the original. Advice on headliner is to make sure that you keep track of the order that the roof bows come out. I haven't re-installed mine yet, but that's the advice I've been passed by others.

Knock on wood, I've been lucky mechanically, probably only slightly better though on electrical. The cloth covered wiring does not stand up well. Mine probably deserves a full harness replacement too, but they're not cheap. You are looking at 700-800 US dollars for a full under dash to engine compartment harness. Only other route is pull harness, order replacement components, and copy one wire at a time.

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Tanks, Inc. makes replacement tanks for these cars. It might be slightly lower total volume than the original - they may have compromised a little to have them fit more models. I believe they claim 17 gallons, where the original may have been around 19 gallons. I found one on ebay as a package deal that included a new level sender and shipping. Though you probably can't get shipping included to your location, an ebay reseller may do better with shipping than going to the factory directly.

See post #144 for the new tank:

http://forums.aaca.org/f163/rescue-me-51-41d-356199-6.html

and

post #68 for fuel tank removal:

http://forums.aaca.org/f163/rescue-me-51-41d-356199-3.html

The same seller is still offering these tanks:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1950-51-52-53-Buick-Steel-Gas-Fuel-Tank-Sender-B1-C-/330594640575?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4cf8f9e2bf#ht_1052wt_836

Check the Tanks, Inc. website (www.tanksinc.com) for if you need the B1-A, B1-B, B1-C, B1-D tank - the letter designates the fill tube location.

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Guest v8andersson

Hi

You are welcome to send mail or word-document to v8andersson@hotmail.com about the glass-instruction :)

Thankyou for your other feedback.

Sometimes I wish I lived in the US, since it would have been easier to purchase parts then :D

/Henrik

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Guest v8andersson
Tanks, Inc. makes replacement tanks for these cars. It might be slightly lower total volume than the original - they may have compromised a little to have them fit more models. I believe they claim 17 gallons, where the original may have been around 19 gallons. I found one on ebay as a package deal that included a new level sender and shipping. Though you probably can't get shipping included to your location, an ebay reseller may do better with shipping than going to the factory directly.

....

Check the Tanks, Inc. website (www.tanksinc.com) for if you need the B1-A, B1-B, B1-C, B1-D tank - the letter designates the fill tube location.

:)

I guess that 17 gallons is way more than the current tank will hold today :D It seem to have been "re-built" additional times... so I is probably filled with plastic-padding :D

Thankyou for your info. I will check that out!

/Henrik

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  • 3 weeks later...
Guest v8andersson

Hi there

Have investigated a little more here in Sweden about how to fix the rear axle. That was not an easy task for that old car.

Rear axle, right side bleeding fluid out in break-drum

Centerpart (middle on axle) is bleeding fluid.

Any ideas on what to fix and how to fix it, and where to find parts.

Seems like special tools are needed :( or do you have any suggestions :)

I'm happy for all suggestions.

1950 Super Riviera Sedan, model #52

/Henrik

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Guest v8andersson
Henrik! Sorry I missed your reply for glass instructions. I'll try to put something together today!

Thankyou very much :)

/Henrik

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Hej Henrik, the old Buicks have a torque tube which can be the cause of leakage from tranny to axle, so I read/heard.

You should really order a workshop manual. These things are golden when you are working on your car. Faxon auto literature sells them and send them to Europe very fast. I have done this for all my cars with good results every time.

I really like your car and hope to see it live nästa år (next year) in beautiful, car friendly Sverige (Sweden).

i am as enthusiastic as you about my Buick, I'm in love every time I work on it. The straight eight is new for me too but I had side valve sixes and slant sixes besides V8's too. Although I always said there is no better sound than a V8 these L8's grow on you and can also pack some serious growl (on YouTube there are some videos of a buick L8 racing on bonneville, forgot the name of the driver and car and I'm on my phone, sorry). They're made to pull (torque before HP) so the standard engine doesn't like to rev hard but the low rumble is very pleasing too and it runs soo smooth...

[Edit]Jeff Brock is the salt flats racer: http://youtu.be/olhJD6Qu9js

Here is his Bombshell Betty revving: http://youtu.be/Y36IoqVT0xQ

Goosebumps much?

Edited by Wilf DeSoto (see edit history)
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  • 1 month later...

Henrik,

Any new developments? I just found your thread and have enjoyed reading it. The rear axle leak is likely the seal, not expensive, but requires removing the axle.

Geoff

Missouri

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  • 3 months later...
Guest v8andersson
Hej Henrik, the old Buicks have a torque tube which can be the cause of leakage from tranny to axle, so I read/heard.

You should really order a workshop manual. These things are golden when you are working on your car. Faxon auto literature sells them and send them to Europe very fast. I have done this for all my cars with good results every time.

Goosebumps much?

Hi there. - Now I do have a shop manual - and I have been swimming around in it a lot :) Very good reading.

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Guest v8andersson
Henrik

I have a 1950 Super used air cleaner in good condition 100.00 plus shipping. Also have some other parts. I have shipped other parts to Sweden so that will not be a problem.

John Hanson

Hi John!!

Thankyou for asking!

My God - time flyes by. Do you still have any parts :D

/Henrik

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Guest v8andersson
Henrik,

Any new developments? I just found your thread and have enjoyed reading it. The rear axle leak is likely the seal, not expensive, but requires removing the axle.

Geoff

Missouri

Hi Geoff!!

I now have brakes :) A good start... First get it to STOP......then get it to RUN :) The other way around could be dangerous :)

I bought a new master brake cylinder! Awesome!

Now I will try in all ways possible to make the parts hold together in order to get it registred in Sweden.

Depending on the condition on it all there is a risk that the enginge and the dynaflow have taken their last breath. To get them going good again could cost a fortune.

Im not there yeat... one step at a time. In worst case I need to exchange the L8 and Dyanflow to something else.... I know that makes you all go bananas - but my wallet is not that big - so I have to check all alternatives.

I really want this L8 and Dynaflow to work good - cause it is so great :) I love it :)

I also now have a new gas tank and transmission rebuild-set...hopefully that will get me in the right direction :)

Springtime is coming soon.... need to work faster :)

The condition of this beast is not the best. I will help it a little bit to go a little bit more to the rat-rod area. Yeah here some of you also go bananas on me - but if you saw the condition of some parts - well... My ambition is to cruise this babe next summer - then I want an engine and transmission that I can trust. All the rest will be a wonderful beast :) I have plans. :D

Have to log in here more often :)

/Henrik

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