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Where can I get the "Sleeve" nuts that hold the 1950 Dodge fuel tank straps in place...


Guest frcc16

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Guest frcc16

Does anyone know where you can get the unique "sleeve" style nuts that hold up the 1950 Dodge passenger car fuel tank straps? I believe that they would apply to 48 thru 52 cars as they all use the same straps.

They are fine thread - 3/8 24.

It is a 3/4" nut welded to a threaded 1 1/4" sleeve.

I could probably get a machine shop to make them, but I thought I'd ask around first.

Thanks!

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Sorry for the non-helpful answer, but there was a fellow reproducing those and advertising them in the Plymouth Owners Club's magazine. But I looked in the last few magazines and can't find the ad. I'll see if I can find some older issues for the ad. It could be that they are no longer available which would be a reason for dropping the ad though.

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Gas tank strap sleeve nuts (Mopar #855646): Used on all Chrysler products from 1940 trough 1948. These are machined from solid stainless steel stock and come with a new stainless steel external tooth lock washer. $35 per pair, shipping included. Bill Haire, WPC#11173, 1624 S 96th St, Omaha, NE 68124, haire5@cox.net

Howard Dennis

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The rear body trunk area has two rear body mounts-same in all Ply/Dodge/DeSoto and Chrysler cars that has the same sleeve nut that the gas tank straps use.

These body mount sleeve nuts are easily removed through the floor in the trunk. One on the rt side and one on the left. One foot away from the gas tank strap sleeve nuts! Easy.

Sometimes the body mount stud will come out with the sleeve nut. Use a vise to separate the two. Done it many times.

Bob

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Guest frcc16

Both of mine barrel nuts where rusted to the straps. I ended up having to cut the straps in order to remove the barrel nuts. Then I was able to put vise grips on the threaded rod while heating and turning the barrel nuts. One of them came out ok, the other came out about 1/4 inch then the threaded rod broke off with about 1/2 inch of threaded rod left inside the barrel. I'm thinking I can get a couple soft grade bolts of the same size and have a local machine shop cut, drill out, and tap them. Anyone tried this yet? It seems doable. I also contacted Death Valley Parts to see if they have any. Haven't heard back from them yet... Thanks for the responses!

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Drilling and tapping bolts is one way to skin this cat. An easier way is to buy coupling nuts from McMaster-Carr or locally and turn off the hex in a lathe leaving about 3/8" or so for the nut portion. It's quicker and easier to turn down the hex OD than it is to drill and tap a deep hole. If you want to send me the nuts (NOT grade 8) I'll turn them down for you for the cost of postage...........Bob

Edited by Bhigdog (see edit history)
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Hi Greg. On further reflection the coupling nuts aren't the best solution because they aren't wide enough to provide a good shoulder under the head. I went ahead and made a couple out of 1/2" bolts. Better and cheaper. The deep holes were not a problem as I relieved the back 1" for tap clearance. If you aren't already an AACA member joining the club would be payment enough for me. There is no charge other than shipping. If you are already a member or choose not to join that's perfectly OK too. I'll also Email direct to you for your address............Bob

Edited by Bhigdog (see edit history)
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