electronic ignition 1930 Ford

I have a 1930 Ford that I would like to replace the original distributor and points with a modern electronic ignition system. I want it to look OEM from the outside.

Is there a kit that will allow me to replace the points and condenser, using the old housing from the distributor?

Thanks!

Why change it ? It probably will not run any better. I think it's asking for trouble. And it looks OEM now.

Why change it ? It probably will not run any better. I think it's asking for trouble. And it looks OEM now.

I am tired of replacing the points.

Velleman has ignition kits and use the orig points and coil, witch removes the high current from the points and the points will last for many years.

Check out Velleman kit #K2543

JB

Velleman has ignition kits and use the orig points and coil, witch removes the high current from the points and the points will last for many years.

Check out Velleman kit #K2543

JB

According to their web page, that is for - ground cars only. Mine is still +

I think all you would have to do is turn the coil around.

I agree that original ignition is best unless you can adapt a popular (parts available) system. How often did they have to change points back in the day?

I ran the original dual points on my 392 Hemi for several years before they needed changing. So now I digress, I adapted a Chrysler electronic ignition. But I can buy parts for it anywhere.

Is there an electronics engineer out there that can offer a conversion to change to + ground????

JB

I guess i don't understand the part about being tired of changing points. I have driven my A model 11 years and have not replaced the points yet. I have dressed them a couple of times and put them back in service. I am running a 12 volt neg ground system with a resister before the coil. I figure that part of driving an old car is doing a little more maintainence on it. My opinion is that the old original type points are better than anything you can get today. My car runs very good with the old system.

I have always wanted to say this: "I'm a doctor Jim, not a mechanic."

I dont know how to change them, and dont live close enough to a garage that has a mechanic. Every time I need them worked on, I have to call someone up.

Thus, I want the new type to end my begging for help.

I have always wanted to say this. "It's life Jim, but not as we know it."

I have always wanted to say this: "I'm a doctor Jim, not a mechanic."

I dont know how to change them, and dont live close enough to a garage that has a mechanic. Every time I need them worked on, I have to call someone up.

Thus, I want the new type to end my begging for help.

Doc, if your smart enough to be a Doctor you can learn how to replace points, it will make you know your car better. As stated here points shouldn't be used up that fast. A new Model A owner stopped by my house recently and said his newly restored car was running so poorly he doubted he'd make it home. I found he'd failed to lubricate the point arm AND he hadn't noticed the original distributor cam was pitted from rust and was literally grinding the point arm rubbing block off and closing the point gap. I reset his points and sent him home with instructions to replace that distributor cam with a new one. You might want to check yours out. It is very easy to replace and inexpensive.

Howard Dennis

A Model A Ford is never going to be a maintenance free vehicle. I hope you have good towing coverage through your insurer or AAA, or that you always tour with a group of wrench heads who don't mind working on your car, because in my humble opinion, if you don't have the aptitude to do a simple task like changing and adjusting points, you really have no business running a Model A. I know that sounds harsh, and I know there are others out there who feel differently, but I, like everyone else, am entitled to my opinion. The electronic ignition systems sold that fit the Model A distributer are not 100% reliable, and are particularly sensative to voltage variation. If you're running a generator instead of an alternator, you're going to have problems with the electronic system. If you get a short that causes a voltage variation, you're going to have problems with the electronic system. If you had points and a condesor, it's a quick fix if something goes on the fritz. If your electronic system goes on you, you're on the hook of a tow truck.

I have put 10,000 miles on my 1928 Chevrolet since 2000 and have never touched the points. If you're having trouble with the points and need to replace them often, you might want to investigate the cause such as a faulty or incorrect condenser or coil. That said, Pertronix probably sells an "ignitor" product to fit the Model-A. Have you investigated that option?

-rsb

Doc, if your smart enough to be a Doctor you can learn how to replace points, it will make you know your car better. Howard Dennis

I agree. My uncle was an MD. and he did all of this stuff himself. I also agree with many of the other comments that changing from the original design is open to problems. I believe in KISS.... keep it simple silly.

The more you know your car/vehicle the more you will enjoy the ownership experience most of the time. We all have had problems that were very difficult to diagnose and repair, but it makes us better for the experience.

Back to the points issue you have, there is something else causing the points to fail that often. I would determine the root cause of the problem and then enjoy the driving experience of the era of your vehicle.

dreld,

I don't think that there is an electronic ignition system available for a Model A that do what you want it to do and be any more reliable or any less maintenance free than the original points and condensor that a Model A Ford came with originally. I would suggest you buy a copy of Les Andrew's Model A Ford Mechanic's handbook. It will easily enable you to teach yourself how to do the routine maintenance required to keep a Model A Ford in perfect running condition.

In my years of experience helping others maintain Model A Fords, more problems are usually found to be caused by "upgrades" than original parts.

I would not recommend the electronic ignition system for your Model A. A lot of people have had problems with them and they are tough to diagnose, especially when you are stranded on the road far from home. I would recommend using a more modern style points and condenser. The vendors such as Snyder's Antique Auto Parts, etc make a new upper distributor plate that uses late model Ford points and moves the condenser from the outside of the distributor to inside the distributor. One of the Model A distributor's shortcomings is that the original tin condensers tend to overheat because they are located right near the exhaust manifold. The later model points also hold their settings longer and are easier to adjust. You can buy just the plate with these modifications on them or get a whole new distributor for about 150.00 that you can install and time in about 30 minutes. The outer appearance of these distributors is just like the original and the points/condenser used are much cheaper to buy than the original style points/condenser and can be purchased at any auto parts store. The other shortcoming of the Model A distributor is the lower plate to upper plate wire connection. Since the upper plate rotates as the spark lever is moved, the short wire connection tends to get weak and eventually short out and or break. There is a new lower plate with a spring steel connection that eliminates this wire. Here is a photo of a new distributor with the late model points/condenser from Snyder's catalog. This can be used with either 6 or 12 volts. I would recommend keeping six volts, positive ground per original.

I would not recommend the electronic ignition system for your Model A. A lot of people have had problems with them and they are tough to diagnose, especially when you are stranded on the road far from home. I would recommend using a more modern style points and condenser. The vendors such as Snyder's Antique Auto Parts, etc make a new upper distributor plate that uses late model Ford points and moves the condenser from the outside of the distributor to inside the distributor. One of the Model A distributor's shortcomings is that the original tin condensers tend to overheat because they are located right near the exhaust manifold. The later model points also hold their settings longer and are easier to adjust. You can buy just the plate with these modifications on them or get a whole new distributor for about 150.00 that you can install and time in about 30 minutes. The outer appearance of these distributors is just like the original and the points/condenser used are much cheaper to buy than the original style points/condenser and can be purchased at any auto parts store. The other shortcoming of the Model A distributor is the lower plate to upper plate wire connection. Since the upper plate rotates as the spark lever is moved, the short wire connection tends to get weak and eventually short out and or break. There is a new lower plate with a spring steel connection that eliminates this wire. Here is a photo of a new distributor with the late model points/condenser from Snyder's catalog. This can be used with either 6 or 12 volts. I would recommend keeping six volts, positive ground per original.

This sounds like a great upgrade to reliability and simplicity.

I would not recommend the electronic ignition system for your Model A. A lot of people have had problems with them and they are tough to diagnose, especially when you are stranded on the road far from home. I would recommend using a more modern style points and condenser. The vendors such as Snyder's Antique Auto Parts, etc make a new upper distributor plate that uses late model Ford points and moves the condenser from the outside of the distributor to inside the distributor. One of the Model A distributor's shortcomings is that the original tin condensers tend to overheat because they are located right near the exhaust manifold. The later model points also hold their settings longer and are easier to adjust. You can buy just the plate with these modifications on them or get a whole new distributor for about 150.00 that you can install and time in about 30 minutes. The outer appearance of these distributors is just like the original and the points/condenser used are much cheaper to buy than the original style points/condenser and can be purchased at any auto parts store. The other shortcoming of the Model A distributor is the lower plate to upper plate wire connection. Since the upper plate rotates as the spark lever is moved, the short wire connection tends to get weak and eventually short out and or break. There is a new lower plate with a spring steel connection that eliminates this wire. Here is a photo of a new distributor with the late model points/condenser from Snyder's catalog. This can be used with either 6 or 12 volts. I would recommend keeping six volts, positive ground per original.

Perfect advice. I was going to chime in and recommend that you have the distributor re-bushed, that is usually the problem when points don't seem to last. People will go all though an engine, sweat over bearing fits and all of the usual critical things then put the same worn out distributor back on. I reason that if the long block is shot, everything on it is equally as shot.

The purchased solution above makes the most sense.

Perfect advice. I was going to chime in and recommend that you have the distributor re-bushed, that is usually the problem when points don't seem to last. People will go all though an engine, sweat over bearing fits and all of the usual critical things then put the same worn out distributor back on. I reason that if the long block is shot, everything on it is equally as shot.

The purchased solution above makes the most sense.

Thanks. It did turn out to be the points after all.