Pull down motor switch

Finally traced my top pull down issue to the switch that tells the motor to reverse direction. No power coming out to the motor.

Is there a replacement for this? My google-fu isn't turning up anything.

Only part number I can make out is 16603820

This is a GM part, our top pull down is a modified GM trunk pull down and these complete units rum around $5 at U-pull yards. If you're very carefull you can drill a small hole through the side close to the contacts, go to deep you kill the switch for ever, but if you're lucky you get a hole in the right place big enough to spray in some contact cleaner and you get a good working switch.

Wouldn't hurt to pick up a second hand trunk pull down assembly, we tend to eat gears and the Cadillac trunk will kill a switch, even break the housing, but it almost never eats the gear.

While on the subject. I removed the bar assy. for the pull down.

There are three wire harness connectors. a 3 poll in line, which was connected, a red 3 poll to on bottom and one on top.

Nothing available to connect to this red connector.

Also a 2 wire 90' connector with one white wire to one side.

I have attempted to find another wire harness or 2 without any sucess.

All the above wires are connected to the motor, release system.

When you get a 25 year old auto, who know what has been remove or stuffed back somewhere.

The release system does not operate.

Thanks in advance for all you help.

While on the subject. I removed the bar assy. for the pull down.

There are three wire harness connectors. a 3 poll in line, which was connected, a red 3 poll to on bottom and one on top.

Nothing available to connect to this red connector.

Also a 2 wire 90' connector with one white wire to one side.

I have attempted to find another wire harness or 2 without any sucess.

All the above wires are connected to the motor, release system.

When you get a 25 year old auto, who know what has been remove or stuffed back somewhere.

The release system does not operate.

Thanks in advance for all you help.

What you can't buy you can build, but waiting for Mr. Arizona Parts to come back from his annual vacation away from the heat is probably your best bet to get a good used wire harness. I know Pheonix is a bit of a haul from Tuscon, but I have heard rumors that he has a hundred of these little gems parked in the desert waiting for someone to come and see what they have to offer and it might be worth the time to make the drive. If you want to shop Arizona Parts for your good used wiring harness needs you will need to wait until the 25th. You could e-mail him now and he will get back to you, or your could try TC Parts today, but I think the quickest way to find what you need will be to post a thread and say what you need, never know who might have an extra one laying around.

Pull Down Motor only Dorman 747-000 housing only Dorman 747-001 with switch & housing: Dorman 747-002

Relay Connector AIRTEX / WELLS Part # 1P1566 ACDelco PT306

Relay AIRTEX / WELLS Part # 1R1331 Autozone MR9, ACDelco 212-304

(I'm by no means an electrician so excuse my verbiage if I misidentify something.)

I'm offering this up to help someone else if their top pull down stops working and they suspect it is an electrical issue instead of mechanical. My way is by no means a miracle cure, but allows you to completely bypass the relay and the switch attached to the pull-down motor itself.

It started this spring, after the car sat garaged since November. As the weather got warmer the top had to go down. The first few times the top pull-down worked sporadically as it always had. Then it completely stopped working.

My first problem was the 25 year old harness connections were loose and would only work properly if the pins inside the connector were pushed in just right. Secondly, the connections and inside the switch located on the pull-down motor housing were corroded and didn't want to work. I was unable to locate the switch itself unless I bought the entire motor and housing as a package. If that wasn't enough, while the motor wasn't receiving power because of the malfunctioning switch and loose harness connections, somehow the relay shorted out while I was testing the 'TOP' button. It even smoked and gave that knowing odor of burnt silicon.

I first diagnosed the 'TOP' switch and verified power through the leads. Opening the tonneau, there will be a three-wire harness. Coming from the switch there will be GREEN, ORANGE and a RED/BLACK striped wire. Leaving the harness will be BLACK, WHITE and BLUE wires.

Here's the breakdown:

GREEN = BLACK = 'TOP' UP

ORANGE = WHITE = 'TOP' DOWN

RED/BLACK = BLUE = +12v

I love my TC, but I'm not made of money. As someone who's had to pay upwards of $300 for a used headlamp assembly on eBay, I am all for saving a few bucks if possible. So in lieu of spending another $175 on a motor with housing, relay and relay connector, I took a trip to Radioshack and bought a pair of switches, and made a second trip to the local hardware for some automotive wire. A complete fix for less than $15.

So I re-invented the wheel and made my own electrical for the top-down motor.

I removed the switch from the motor housing. Looking at the motor, you'll only see two pins. Odd, since the connector on the switch had five wires. So what the switch and relay did was reverse the +12v lead from one terminal to another. Using a DPDT switch and a SPDT switch, I made my own switching relay.

With both switches UP, you get 'TOP' UP to the left terminal and +12v to the right. Holding 'TOP' UP will release the hard/soft top pins.

With both switches DOWN, you 12+v to the left and 'TOP' DOWN to the right. Holding 'TOP' DOWN will pull down the hard/soft top pins.

So why does this make sense?

The 'TOP' switch simply completes the circuit. The RED/BLACK striped (or Blue) determines which direction power flows to the motor, thereby making the motor turn clockwise or counterclockwise.

Some considerations:

• I used insulated male-female crimp connectors and wrapped the connections liberally with electrical tape.
  
• The only way I could come up with to connect to the pins on the motor was by using mini-alligator clips, which held snug but I had doubts about them staying on while driving on Michigan's horrible roads. I carefully soldered the clips to the terminals and insulated the clips themselves with electrical tape.
  
• I used Center-Off switches, also known as ON-OFF-ON switches. This allows to completely cut power to the circuit when not in use.
  
• This doesn't have a built in stop for when the motor has reached the end of it's cycle meaning you can hold the power through the TOP switch and stress out the motor. When you hear the telling PING-PING from the latch mechanism locking or releasing, let go of the TOP switch!
  
• Triple check your switches are wired correctly before operating and double check that both switches are UP or DOWN depending on your need. If you screw up and have one switch up and one down, you're definitely going to short something out! Perhaps adding an inline fuse would be a good idea.
  
• Don't leave the switches inside the tonneau. With the tonneau closed you won't be able to flip the switches, now will you? I routed mine in to the trunk for convenience, but also where they wouldn't be out in the open in the passenger compartment.
  

Pull Down Motor only Dorman 747-000 housing only Dorman 747-001 with switch & housing: Dorman 747-002

Relay Connector AIRTEX / WELLS Part # 1P1566 ACDelco PT306

Relay AIRTEX / WELLS Part # 1R1331 Autozone MR9, ACDelco 212-304

(I'm by no means an electrician so excuse my verbiage if I misidentify something.)

I'm offering this up to help someone else if their top pull down stops working and they suspect it is an electrical issue instead of mechanical. My way is by no means a miracle cure, but allows you to completely bypass the relay and the switch attached to the pull-down motor itself.

It started this spring, after the car sat garaged since November. As the weather got warmer the top had to go down. The first few times the top pull-down worked sporadically as it always had. Then it completely stopped working.

My first problem was the 25 year old harness connections were loose and would only work properly if the pins inside the connector were pushed in just right. Secondly, the connections and inside the switch located on the pull-down motor housing were corroded and didn't want to work. I was unable to locate the switch itself unless I bought the entire motor and housing as a package. If that wasn't enough, while the motor wasn't receiving power because of the malfunctioning switch and loose harness connections, somehow the relay shorted out while I was testing the 'TOP' button. It even smoked and gave that knowing odor of burnt silicon.

I first diagnosed the 'TOP' switch and verified power through the leads. Opening the tonneau, there will be a three-wire harness. Coming from the switch there will be GREEN, ORANGE and a RED/BLACK striped wire. Leaving the harness will be BLACK, WHITE and BLUE wires.

Here's the breakdown:

GREEN = BLACK = 'TOP' UP

ORANGE = WHITE = 'TOP' DOWN

RED/BLACK = BLUE = +12v

I love my TC, but I'm not made of money. As someone who's had to pay upwards of $300 for a used headlamp assembly on eBay, I am all for saving a few bucks if possible. So in lieu of spending another $175 on a motor with housing, relay and relay connector, I took a trip to Radioshack and bought a pair of switches, and made a second trip to the local hardware for some automotive wire. A complete fix for less than $15.

So I re-invented the wheel and made my own electrical for the top-down motor.

I removed the switch from the motor housing. Looking at the motor, you'll only see two pins. Odd, since the connector on the switch had five wires. So what the switch and relay did was reverse the +12v lead from one terminal to another. Using a DPDT switch and a SPDT switch, I made my own switching relay.

With both switches UP, you get 'TOP' UP to the left terminal and +12v to the right. Holding 'TOP' UP will release the hard/soft top pins.

With both switches DOWN, you 12+v to the left and 'TOP' DOWN to the right. Holding 'TOP' DOWN will pull down the hard/soft top pins.

So why does this make sense?

The 'TOP' switch simply completes the circuit. The RED/BLACK striped (or Blue) determines which direction power flows to the motor, thereby making the motor turn clockwise or counterclockwise.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]256832[/ATTACH]

Some considerations:

• I used insulated male-female crimp connectors and wrapped the connections liberally with electrical tape.
  
• The only way I could come up with to connect to the pins on the motor was by using mini-alligator clips, which held snug but I had doubts about them staying on while driving on Michigan's horrible roads. I carefully soldered the clips to the terminals and insulated the clips themselves with electrical tape.
  
• I used Center-Off switches, also known as ON-OFF-ON switches. This allows to completely cut power to the circuit when not in use.
  
• This doesn't have a built in stop for when the motor has reached the end of it's cycle meaning you can hold the power through the TOP switch and stress out the motor. When you hear the telling PING-PING from the latch mechanism locking or releasing, let go of the TOP switch!
  
• Triple check your switches are wired correctly before operating and double check that both switches are UP or DOWN depending on your need. If you screw up and have one switch up and one down, you're definitely going to short something out! Perhaps adding an inline fuse would be a good idea.
  
• Don't leave the switches inside the tonneau. With the tonneau closed you won't be able to flip the switches, now will you? I routed mine in to the trunk for convenience, but also where they wouldn't be out in the open in the passenger compartment.
  

For not being an electrician you did a darn good job of figuring out and documenting a circuit.

That horizontal mount Paddle switch was a GM dealer only item and ten times the price of the Radio Shack lever arm Micro switch. Don't know if the switch itself is still available through GM dealers without buying the entire assembly, do know that the lever arm Micro is still available at the Shack and can be substituted by changing the harness connectors and making an offset mounting bracket. Personally I would have gone to the bone yard and pulled the assembly from an 80 to mid 90's Cad Fleetwood before changing the harness connect and making an offset bracket to mount a Micro, but the day will come when even these parts will be impossible to find and fabricating a new circut will be our only choice for repair.

I have been off the computer for a couple of days.

The information you guys provided is great.

Maybe my motor is good and just not reversing. I will check it out.

It has been great since joining the TC Club.

all the information I get is right on.

Thanks again for you help.

Jim in sunny Tucson