Elecronic disributor conversions

Anybody had any experience with Pertronix Distributor/point conversions, good.. bad...good value...no benefit...??etc etc

I've been keen on buying one for my late 30's 6volt pos ground Chrysler but first some feedback would be great, yes ..no.. any alternative brands,... options? your thoughts please....

Rich

I have one in my Packard. Very pleased. I used the coil supplied with it. Spark is always hot, car starts every time and starts easily too. Tech support at Pertronix is very good. The set up for my car can be used on either clockwise or counter-clockwise distributors, mine was sent with the opposite rotation, tech support talked me through the installation. Make sure you have 6 volts, I think the threshold is 4.5 volts. Regards, John

Opinion seems divided. Every once in a while we get plaintive cries for help from someone who bought one, and his car never ran right again. Then a bunch chimes in that they put them on their car, and they work fine.

One problem is that if you put one on, and the car doesn't run right, no one knows how to fix it. You can throw the Pertronix away and try another one, or go back to points.

If you have conventional points ignition it is easy to diagnose and fix.

Do they even make one for a 6v + ground system?

I have used them on Formula Vee Race cars for years (Air Cooled VW engine) only draw back I have ever found is DO NOT leave you key on, if you do you coil will explode in about 15 minutes.

I have installed them in a lot of diffrent cars....... from a 28 Stutz to a 55 T Bird last week. We had to make the reluctor for the Stutz, thus it's a kit we made up ourselves. They work fine, I just prefer to run stock in all my cars. I will say this, the 55 Bird threw a much hotter spark (KV's) than the points. It was a 6 volt pos ground system. Points can be fixed on the side of the road, a burned out module can't. If you convert, build a spare distributor and keep it in the trunk. That way you have options on a tour or vacation. Ed

Tried them on fleet of lift trucks for a large transport company, nice sales pitch. Luckily I saved the old plates. Unending complaints by drivers for lack of power. I had to change them. The magnets are too weak and the coil too small .May be the ignition coil did not match the Petronex Those with experience on G. M. H. E.I. will have an idea what is really a hot spark.

Cheers,

I've been pleased with the performance in my wife's 1966 Mustang GT convertible. After a lot of trial and error, none of which had anything to do with the Pertronix, the car runs extremely well. The Pertronix makes a noticeable difference in both how fast it starts (within 1 turn n most cases) and how smoothly it runs. It cackles and barks and runs right up to redline without hesitation. You have to make sure the module is getting a full 12 volts (the Mustang's ignition system typically runs at ~8V) to work properly, but that's easy. I would presume that's the same for the 6-volt cars; it'll need a full 6 volts to operate correctly.

There are always exceptions that don't work out. I blew up my first Pertronix module by wiring it incorrectly--my fault or Pertonix's fault? Of course it's my fault. Other guys say they cause driveability problems, but I don't see how. The spark is either on or it's off, it doesn't affect anything else other than the method of triggering the spark (it makes a more abrupt transition which is shown as a more "square" wave on a scope than points, which is why cars tend to run smoother with it). There are a lot of failures out there due to other circumstances, including weak coils, improperly wired modules (a lot of Mustang guys wire them directly to the 8V coil and wonder why they don't work properly), and installing them on cars where the rest of the electrical system is already marginal, hoping that the Pertronix is a cure-all. If you look at it as merely a solid-state set of points, then you'll be OK. Hoping that it will make a car that runs poorly run properly without any other changes is a mistake and you'll be disappointed.

And yes, I do carry points and condenser, just in case. I hope to never need them, but it never hurts to be prepared and the parts are small enough to fit in the glove box.

Seems there is a lot of divided opinion, but I guess that is the case with most things, so far I'd rate the Pertronix discussions as 50% either way. And yes they do make a 6V Pos ground unit!

Rich

I've had the same Pertronix in my MGB for ten or so years. I have points/condenser in the tool bag but never needed them. On the other hand, I have conventional in the Porsche 356 and had the condenser go dark with no warning or operator error. One minute running, next minute I'm on my knees in fancy clothes using a Swiss Army knife and a pair of pliers to replace it. But that's all part of the fun, isn't it?

G'day from Port Arthur

G'Day from MT Tamborine Qld are you in Port Arthur on vacation??

Rich

Got one in all 6 of my collector cars. Oldest one about 15 years newest about 3 years. No problems at all so far................Bob

Petronix don't like to get hot. When they get hot, they get flakey. No different than a lot of other small electronic devices. So if you have a car where your distributor is near your hot exhaust manifold, you are likely to have problems, if your distributor is away from this, you'll likely be ok. As other people have said, they can not be fixed on the road so you'll need to carry a spare Petronix or re-install your old points, etc. On a 6 volt system, they need nearly a full 6 volts to work, so you'll need to make sure everything else in your wiring is up to snuff. They do tend to work better on later 12 volt cars than they do on earlier 6 volt cars. If you have a really obscure car or distributor where points and other parts are not readily available, the Petronix might be worth considering.

Hi motoringicon, after reading all the comments I think I understand the situation. IT ALL DEPENDEDS ON APPLICATIONS. In my experience it is forklifts fueled by L.P.G. , running hot under the seat which is also the engine cover, 24/7. They did not conk out but lost its whoosh after a couple of weeks. The operators did not know of the refit but some felt the difference in power and complained. I guess installing on older or collectible cars driven on weekends or infrequently might be fine. But I will keepmMy D.B. Senior stock. No offence.

Cheers.

HI Bhigdog, happy to hear your cars work fine with the petronix. They have been around a long time . After reading some thoughts on the subject I come to the conclusion that if you drive your outfitted cars occasionally they may be fine. I am sorry if my experience convey the wrong impression. I outfitted about 40 forklifts to get away from constant tune ups. It did work. The machines ran 24/7 under harsh condition, hot under the cabs. They did not break down but some of the operators noticed the loss of power so I changed them back. Some of those trucks ran so hot I had to put added insulation under the seat. I also think they are reliable and simple to install.

Cheers.

Hi BillP, glad to hear your Petronex is working fine .My experience was with forklift truck running 24/7 on propane. They did not break down but lost power noticeably enough for some driver to detect so I changed them back. I can only guessit was the heat under the hood. Now I am thinking whether I should retrofit my 28 D.B. 6 Distributor TU model. The replacement modified plate is 235 dollars. May be I should try to find a 6v petronix and give it a try.

Pertronix....??? I think the jury is still out, I admit I have been a little scared off and will maybe stick with points.

However everybody is warning about a Pertronix failure leaving you stranded (but always carry a spare points set).

But can I pose the question.... if you are worried about high tech electronic failure ( Like Pertronix ) why are you all driving modern daily drivers??

When their electronics and/or computers fail by the roadside you go nowhere, you cant fix and your bank balance is about to diminish big time.

Should I recommend you always carry a new electronic loom and engine Computer...

So why are they not still building new cars with points ??

Just a few interesting points to heat up the discussion!!

Pertronix....??? I think the jury is still out, I admit I have been a little scared off and will maybe stick with points.

However everybody is warning about a Pertronix failure leaving you stranded (but always carry a spare points set).

But can I pose the question.... if you are worried about high tech electronic failure ( Like Pertronix ) why are you all driving modern daily drivers??

When their electronics and/or computers fail by the roadside you go nowhere, you cant fix and your bank balance is about to diminish big time.

Should I recommend you always carry a new electronic loom and engine Computer...

So why are they not still building new cars with points ??

Just a few interesting points to heat up the discussion!!

LIKE.

Pertronix....??? I think the jury is still out, I admit I have been a little scared off and will maybe stick with points.

However everybody is warning about a Pertronix failure leaving you stranded (but always carry a spare points set).

But can I pose the question.... if you are worried about high tech electronic failure ( Like Pertronix ) why are you all driving modern daily drivers??

When their electronics and/or computers fail by the roadside you go nowhere, you cant fix and your bank balance is about to diminish big time.

Should I recommend you always carry a new electronic loom and engine Computer...

So why are they not still building new cars with points ??

Just a few interesting points to heat up the discussion!!

I think part of it is that the Pertronix is aftermarket and retrofitted to a car where it wasn't originally designed to go. There's OEM engineering, then there's everything else. I think the Pertronix is a good product, but I also realize that it's in a 50-year-old car that was never designed to have it and that it may not have been built to the same standards as my brand new daily driver. Putting modern tech in an old car can always cause unexpected problems. We trust modern cars but always worry when we turn the keys on our old cars--I've been driving my '29 Cadillac for four years now and it has never left me stranded, not even once. And yet every time I take it out, I expect it. On the other hand, I don't hesitate to get in my 2010 Cadillac and drive it 3000 miles without so much as putting a screwdriver in the trunk. I wonder if that's because modern cars have gotten so good or because I'm a hypochondriac about my old cars?

I suspect the Pertronix problems are way over-represented online. The complainers always end up on the internet, but the success stories are quiet. In my business, no news is good news (meaning that if I don't hear from a buyer, I know he's happily enjoying his car. If there's a problem, he'll call). I suspect it is the same with Pertronix and the success stories outweigh the problems by a significant margin, you just never hear about them. The cars are just working as intended.

Hi Mat. You are right .Part of the problem is in the mind. I will not drive a 1929 Cadillac at 80 m.p.h. 3ooo miles in a day simply because it was not designed to do that. Modern vehicles have come a long way after spending billions in research to improve them. I can take my 95 Cherokee without a blink and go on a 800 KM trip but not with my 29 D.B. Example, I drove a 68 bell air for more than ten years before I replaced the "u" joint. with an after market one with a grease fitting. The replacement lasted a little over 3 years. I do not think the after market people have the resources like the big corporations. There was a time the dealers would sell you genuine replacement parts. 25 years ago I saw customers take their cars to a dealer hoping to get original exhaust systems The dealer was taking them to Midas instead. I doubt the components were o.e.m . As long as originals are available I will stick to it.

I always wonder why the guys with faulty Pertronix ignition don't ask Pertronix what to do? Why do they think some random guy on the net will know the product better than the maker?

Hello trickydicky. To answer this question there are many components. First is the Arab connection. tail pipe exhaust smog and many more. Then government mandate to improve milage.( some old cars were giving 9 miles per gallon)The manufacturers came up with several solutions including weight ,downsize the ledsleds,and boosting fuel economy. We all know about the manufacturers were mandated to publish the fuel rating for vehicles. Electronics is a big component in the fuel management. The petronics is supposed to help in that respect but I do not think it has made any dent. There are specialist companies spending billions to invent and improve the fuel management system. So far modern cars are quite reliable.

Cheers

Hi Rusty, a good question. I remember in the late 70's this fellow used to go to different flea markets with a v 8 ford set up on a stand demonstrating how a little gadget installed in line with the high tension wires could save up to 15 % fuel . There were people buying into it and so I did as well. It tuned out be snake oil. The market place has been full of snake oil and was a multi million dollar business just as weight loss and vitamin products are today. I do not know what the petronics was intended to achieve except to not having to keep adjusting points. May be the manufacturer can tell us. The modern car has replaced most of the Snake oil if not all . I did not have much time to spend with my kids when I was working. Now that they have grown up and I am retired I spend my time with my wife and old car. That is life as I see it.

The most telling feature of the Petronix system is the owner advice to keep the original distributor/points with you at all times on the road.

Makes quite a statement IMHO?

Hi D. This is like buying a new car from the dealership and the sales person selling you extra warranty for peace of mind. Whose mind, if the car conks out 300 hundred miles from home ? The petronics is nothing but a mini magneto. A permanent magnet moving around a coil of wire. So you keep the points assembly in the glove pocket because you do not have confidence in the product.

I have points in my cars and keep a spare pertronix unit in the glove box in case the points/condenser goes ti*s up. 8-).......................Bob

The most telling feature of the Petronix system is the owner advice to keep the original distributor/points with you at all times on the road.

Makes quite a statement IMHO?

"Quite a statement"? What would be the statement made for carrying ANY spare parts?

Well that's a twist on previous posts !

I installed the Pertronix I on both a '68 Mercury Cougar and a '73 Chevy Impala. The only issue after several years (~50k miles) was one of the module leads on the Impala developed an intermittent condition due to the conductor flexing and breaking inside the wire insulation. Fortunately, I was able to diagnose the problem and replace the module (the wire break was right up against the module, couldn't just solder it) before it quit completely. I was more careful in routing the leads on the replacement module, have to keep in mind the breaker plate rotates with timing advance...

Call me lazy, but I don't miss readjusting the dwell and timing after installing new points and driving a few thousand miles. Knowing the dwell is fixed with the module also helps at tune-up time, just takes a few minutes to check the ignition timing with the light and that portion of the tune-up is done.

Also, it's been my experience that condensers don't seem to be as reliable as in years past, I've had a few fail far short of their recommended replacement interval. I've had two failures, one of which required a tow and the other had the car stall in the driveway. I am more concerned about condenser failure than Pertronix failure.

I've heard about the possibility of burning out the Pertronix module and/or coil by leaving the ignition on and the engine stopped for extended time periods, so I don't do it. That also helps with battery drain issues. But I've also heard that you shouldn't leave the ignition on with the engine off on a conventional system, as you can burn the points if everything's lined up just right. Fact or fiction, I don't know, it's easier to just not be in the situation.

I think success with the Pertronix is based on following the installation instructions and checking the voltages, etc., as required. I have called their tech assistance line and found them to be helpful. In one case, I was doing an installation for which they didn't list a part number, they offered to take my module and distributor and do a custom installation for free (they have since produced a drop-in module for the application.)

Pertronix may not be 100% reliable, but neither is a stock ignition system. Keeping the replaced ignition parts in the glovebox gives an immediate repair option as opposed to trying to find ignition parts locally should there be a failure.

I've had solid state breaker in the Roadmaster for 12 years.

Never a problem in all that time

After all the opinions I say nothing is 100 percent reliable. Look at the recalls of late as an example. Some more so than others. What works for you keep on doing it. In the early days of the fan belt era it was prudent to carry on long trips spare coolant, fan belt, oil and a few tit bits for emergency . I say take precaution. Fixing a broken down car by the roadside for whatever reason is no fun. Do the job right the first time.

I could not say it better than Writer Jon. (Petronix may not be 100% reliable and so does stock) It is an individual choice based on experience.

I have a 55 Chrysler that I replaced the 6 Volt batt. with an 8v. batt. for faster crranking speed (The regulator can be set to produce 9v. )

I installed an 8v. pos. ground Pertronix unit and have had no trouble with it (unlike the E10 that disolved the accelator pump).

I am subject to correction here. I was told by some old timers that 8 volts batteries were designed for marine purposes. (that was before my time)I do not know the technical reasons. What I know from experience even on 12 volts systems, when voltage regulator in generator days malfunctioned constant over voltage caused premature bulbs and instruments burnouts. There is a degree of tolerance of over voltage but constant use may shorten life span. Instrument gauges in old cars are expensive and sometimes unavailable so I, personally will avoid using voltage not designed for my car. PEAS PORIDGE IN THE POT PEASE PORIDGE COLD, SOME LIKE IT IN THE POT 9 DAYS OLD. To each his own. There is a system on Hino trucks, 2 12 volts batteries with a relay that cranks on 24 volts and charges on 12. Can it be done with 2 sixes for faster cranking. Let us hear it from the guys.

I have Pertronix on the Benz and it works just fine. I kept the Bosch coil rather than switch to the Pertronix version so that there is nothing visible under the hood to indicate the swap. I would, and do, recommend the change to electronic over points if so inclined.

I installed the Pertronix I on both a '68 Mercury Cougar and a '73 Chevy Impala. The only issue after several years (~50k miles) was one of the module leads on the Impala developed an intermittent condition due to the conductor flexing and breaking inside the wire insulation. Fortunately, I was able to diagnose the problem and replace the module (the wire break was right up against the module, couldn't just solder it) before it quit completely. I was more careful in routing the leads on the replacement module, have to keep in mind the breaker plate rotates with timing advance...

Call me lazy, but I don't miss readjusting the dwell and timing after installing new points and driving a few thousand miles. Knowing the dwell is fixed with the module also helps at tune-up time, just takes a few minutes to check the ignition timing with the light and that portion of the tune-up is done.

Also, it's been my experience that condensers don't seem to be as reliable as in years past, I've had a few fail far short of their recommended replacement interval. I've had two failures, one of which required a tow and the other had the car stall in the driveway. I am more concerned about condenser failure than Pertronix failure.

I've heard about the possibility of burning out the Pertronix module and/or coil by leaving the ignition on and the engine stopped for extended time periods, so I don't do it. That also helps with battery drain issues. But I've also heard that you shouldn't leave the ignition on with the engine off on a conventional system, as you can burn the points if everything's lined up just right. Fact or fiction, I don't know, it's easier to just not be in the situation.

I think success with the Pertronix is based on following the installation instructions and checking the voltages, etc., as required. I have called their tech assistance line and found them to be helpful. In one case, I was doing an installation for which they didn't list a part number, they offered to take my module and distributor and do a custom installation for free (they have since produced a drop-in module for the application.)

Pertronix may not be 100% reliable, but neither is a stock ignition system. Keeping the replaced ignition parts in the glovebox gives an immediate repair option as opposed to trying to find ignition parts locally should there be a failure.

I burned up my points doing that. Neither system is immune from abuse.

My negligence notwithstanding, I never had a problem with points.

But, with the solid state system, not have I not had problems, I haven't touched it since i put it in many years ago.

Using (2) 6 volt batteries at 12 volts for starting and 6 volts for everything else has been done for a long time - I recall seeing a few such set-ups on early Ford flatheads with high compression heads.

Well, maybe I am showing my ignorance here but I thought the Petronix is a maintenance free, non-wearing out device. "Put it in and forget it." If one has to have a distributor for when the the non-failing device ceases to work, it does not seem to perform as advertised.

The majority of you seem it think it works as intended, and quite well at that. That is good to hear!

Anything wrought by the hand of man will eventually fail. So far the pertronix units seem to work very well and last a long time...................Bob

I think Bhigdog hit the nail on the head straight on. One member said he had an experience where the Petronix coil went open. I had an experience with a 73 Cadillac . I worked for a large coast to coast transport company so I am really a tractor and truck man. The general manager brought in his Cadillac for me to check out. The problem he said, sometimes when he is making a right turn the engine will stall. I checked it out with a fine tooth comb. It worked for a week and began doing the same. He took it to a Delco dealer who put it on some machine and found out the coil was broken in such a way that sometimes with a bounce it would separate momentarily. You still have to check the gap occasionally with a brass feeler gauge. If I remember the gap should be between 8 and 9 thou.

Sorry for joining in late but I'm still learning how to use this forum. I hope I'm welcome. The two discussions to are fascinating. I have found that most electrical failures are due to poor installations. All car makers use soldered joints,but how many people use crimp type connectors? . Crimp connectors are fine until they; get wet, oil soaked, vibrate loose or crack off. Often the wiring is not sheathed ,routed properly or tied. I'm not an expert on electrics but I know that poor connections cause high resistance which can play havoc with electronics. Lastly, modern alternators have fairly stable voltage outputs. I'm only guessing but the voltages from old generators /regulators if measured on modern equipment would show some scary voltages. I don't know whether the electronic ignition system are protected but I think they won't like low or high voltages. . To the second topic of old cars being trusted in far off remote places with no spares backup. Most modern cars have a network of spare parts across the country backed up by a towing service and I feel.. blind faith. If an old car is in the condition of a new car would it be as reliable? I would carry a fan belt,points,condenser and headlight bulb. This guarantees that the clutch will fail!! Based on Murphy's law that a dropped nut always rolls to the centre of the car! The machinations behind a modern car to be reliable has taken more than 100 years and for an old car to be as reliable ,I feel you must approach it in the same manner, and it will get you there and back. Solder every joint. Fred Edwards.

One more thing to add for those with high underhood temps.Trini I know you are not fixing fork lifts anymore. For you fellows afraid of Pertronix or others failing due to heat, you can have electronic ignition using your stock points, with a Ford thick film ignition module. The points trigger the module, and carry so little current they will last practically forever (50,000 miles or longer).

Some Fords have the module on an aluminum heat sink on the rad support. These can be located in any cool well ventilated place, and the wires run to the distributor. If you do a search there are schematics on the web. I did this on a 1975 Porsche using the Ford coil, the spark is a fantastic improvement over the stock system.