"To Do " list

I had a cigar lighter not working. Bought a new one and was going to remove the console to replace it. Bigger job than I had time for tonight! On a chance, I plugged a phone charger in it after blowing a bucket full of ashes out, and the sucker started working. Hard to keep a good MOPAR down, even an Italian one!!!

Also, the low beam passenger headlight was out. Bought a new bulb for that. Got out there and turned the headlights on, and they are all working, too! Now I have spare parts!!

Two jobs down!

The only lights not working are the rear console light, the instrument panel lights, and the right front cornering light. I have to use tweazers to get the old bulb out of the cornering light, since it broke. Even the ignition light works!!

The tach doesn't work right, the gas gauge doesn't work at all, and I'm wondering about the other gauges!!

Next will be replacing the dead radio. It's pitiful! Even the cassette part doesn't work! I have an exact replacement, dated 1989, and it looks new. Hope it works.

After that will be hood struts, tonneau strut, and storage compartment strut.

I also have to fix the right side window bracket on the soft top.

The big jobs to be done are the seats, dash leather, and the damaged clearcoat.

I absolutely love Chrysler products, and I've had many......but, I've never owned a Plymouth!!!! Just how things worked out, I guess!!

I made the same mistake on the cornering light? The socket IS PART of the bulb. I never saw one like that before.

"I have to use tweezers to get the old bulb out of the cornering light"

Is there a trick to getting the cornering light bulb out of the housing? When I tried, it resisted, then suddenly popped out, leaving the glass part inside the housing.

Maybe a little PB BLaster on the socket to loosen it. Unplug the wire and wiggle and rotate. You have the broken one so you know what it looks like. The one that I replaced in the accident was already rusted and broken. The bulb is part of the black plug. The housing is white. I don't know which bulb it was but I had to unplug the wire before the socket had clearance to rotate.

This part number, sg414003, was listed in another old thread for the storage compartment gas strut. Where could I find info on this part?

go to www.liftsupportsdepot.com or e-mail them at Lou@liftsupportsdepodepot.com

Thanks for that link, Mark! I have five different makes of vehicles that use gas struts, and these folks have something for all of them!!

TCBucky - our radio also died. It comes and goes, thought it was the antenna being loose but the shop says it's shorted out.

Did you get your replacement radio installed yet and if so, was it very difficult?

TIA!

I haven't, yet, but these stereos are fairly easy to replace, they are pretty typical across the whole MOPAR line. I have replaced them in other MOPARS in the past.

Just got a code "13". My best research says MAP sensor. What's my best recourse?

Just got a code "13". My best research says MAP sensor. What's my best recourse?

If everything seems to be running like it should, check the MAP connector contacts, reseat the MAP connector if things look good and lift neg battery cable to clear code, if the code comes back replace the MAP.

Or sniff for gas in the fuel pressure regulator vacuum line. If the fpr is leaking it will set a code 13.

OK...just changed out the Infinity stereo. Piece of cake! Now, I have AM and FM. But, it seems the cassette player doesn't work. I can insert the tape, but it won't drop in place. I used the same tape I tried in the old stereo, and it did the same thing in that one, too. The stereo I took out was not the original, either. It had a date on a piece of masking tape somewhere in 1995. Could there be a problem with the tape, instead of the player? I may have to dig deep to find another tape around here!!! HAHAHA There is also a round plug socket on the back of the stereo. What goes in that?

Just tried three more tapes, and they all did the same thing, so evidently, the player doesn't work.

Is there a trick to getting the cornering light bulb out of the housing? When I tried, it resisted, then suddenly popped out, leaving the glass part inside the housing.

Yes - disconnect the electrical connector FIRST, then the bulb will twist out easily. Install the new bulb, then reconnect.

Yes - disconnect the electrical connector FIRST, then the bulb will twist out easily. Install the new bulb, then reconnect.

I did try that. The bulb would spin around in the housing, but one would hang up when I tried to pull it out of the housing. When it did break free, the glass part of the bulb popped out of the back part of the bulb and fell into the housing. When I go back in with the new one, I'll see if something tries to hang it up going in and fix the problem so it doesn't happen again. Thanks for the hint about unplugging the electrical first, as many bulbs don't require that.