1925 Maxwell Club Sedan

Hoping for some much needed info on my newest project, a 1925 Maxwell Club Sedan in remarkably well preserved condition. Many questions, hope to tap into the expertise on this forum:

I need a new fan belt, anyone know size and a source to purchase?

Recommended engine oil? 10W30? Capacity?

Recommended transmission and differential lube and capacity?

There is no oil filter correct?

I seem to have an electric fuel pump added at a later date, is the canister on the right side of the firewall an original fuel filter?

Thx

Here is where to go for your fan belt:

http://leatherdrivebelts.com/

John Knox is a pleasure to work with.

Engine oil, use 90 W oil. Capacity is 4 or 5 quarts, I believe. There is a gauge for this in my 1917 Maxwell. No oil filter on these.

Let's see pictures of yours.

Here is a photo of mine.

DO NOT USE 90W OIL IN THE ENGINE!!

Howard Dennis

DO NOT USE 90W OIL IN THE ENGINE!!

Howard Dennis

What should I be using, then? This is what an old-timer told me to use. Thanks!

Thanks for the tip on the fan belt. I was going to use standard 10W30 oil for the engine. I will probably use regular gear oil for tranny and differential. Will use green spark plug company for new spark plugs. Will need some new tires, although these are not that bad. Need a lug nut cover plate and wheel bearing cover.

Anyone know the pattern of the transmission (position of reverse and forward gears on lever)?

See attached pics.

Shifting pattern:

Reverse, upper left

First gear, lower left

Second gear, upper right

Third gear, lower right

Thx for the shifting pattern, you probably saved a few gears! I just dropped the oil pan tonight and cleaned out about a half inch of thick crud, its back on with 10W30 for now, with some STP for good measure. I found a gauge on the side of the pan that indicates 'full' at about one gallon. Turned it over with the hand crank slowly and it seems to have good compression.

Thx for the picture of your maxwell, great seats! I am sure mine had seats like that originally, may be under my material covers, will look at some point.

What are your inner door lashes/stops made out of? On my driver side there is a bungee bolted together, and on the passenger side it has a dog collar. At least that is what it looks like to me.

My fan belt measures out at about 36 3/4", but hard to tell because it is falling apart. Will try to order a leather one from the site you recommended.

What should I be using, then? This is what an old-timer told me to use. Thanks!

I don't know what that oldtimer was smoking but 90W is a GEAR oil much too thick for an engine. I would use 30W non detergent. If the engine was newly rebuilt and clean inside I might use a modern 10W30 but if it is an old original engine I wouldn't risk stirring up the old internal deposits with a detergent oil.

Howard Dennis

Ford called for rear end lubricant the consistency of molasas which is about 600 WT. It is available at many Model A parts stores. The store in Springfield OH carries it.

90 WT is called for on some rear ends and manual transmissions.

I have used 30 WT in the summer and 10 WT in the winter for my engine of my daily driver. 30 WT in very cold weather is a lost cause starting it.

Currently I use 30 WT in my 1931 and don't drive it in cold weather.

Check your oil level regularly, the cars of the 20's & 30's were expected to use oil.

The owners manual on my car states the oil level will be down 1 qt at 500 miles.

It indicates you should not add oil but replace the oil with an oil change.

The attachment is information is from a 1929 National Service Manual.

Huptoy

Thanks for the tips and reminders re the oil, very helpful. The attachment has great info as well.

Can you or anyone explain the small lock at the base of the shifter - is this a transmission lock? I just got the key from the previous owner. Does not seem related to the ignition. The ignition switch on the panel has some cryptic terms - Curb, Off, Day, Bright, Dim. Which position for starting?

Thx

I will have to look and see what material is used to brace the doors.

The good news is that I actually never used 90 W oil. Just 10 W 30. I was told to use 90 W next time but obviously will not do this!

Thanks

Great news - fired it up tonite and she runs great. Starter won't budge so I used the hand crank. Added water to rad and did a quick oil change. There is a crack at the weld at the top of the rad where the inlet is, but runs cool. Figured out the ignition switch. The electric fuel pump performs well.

Unfortunately cant take it out yet as the steering is locked tight, can't budge it at all. Any suggestions?

Found some great 'door check straps' on ebay and restorationstuff.com, just need to order correct lengths

Should I try to take the steering box apart?

DBirch, while trying to find info online I stumbled across this Maxwell restoration that shows a lot of information you might be able to use.

http://www.selectmotorcompany.com/projects_restorations_77.asp

A frozen steering box is a highly unusual problem especially on a car that hasn't been left outside like yours. First, I'd jack up the front axle and disconnect the pitman arm on the steering arm. That would allow you to isolate the kingpins and tierod ends to make sure your problem is in the steering box. Check the mounting of the steering tube to the dash to make sure there is no anti-theft lock at that point. If all this checks out I suppose your problem is inside the box and it would need to come apart. I'm going to go through the restoration pictures and see if there is any of the box. Do you have an owners manual? They usually show internal views and tell how to adjust the steering box.

Howard Dennis

I have a 1926 Chrysler model 54 which is one of the maxwells that were left over when Chrysler bought out Maxwell. Basicly it is the same car as yours. Let me know if I can be of any help. Bill

yes, that is a transmission lock, usually locks in a gear. note that your ignition switch contains no key lock.

Thanks guys!

Yep, confirmed the lock is for the transmission only. Fired it up again tonite, wouldn't start by hand crank but the starter mysteriously came to life and I ran it for a while. Smokes, but no liquid leaking, idles nicely.

Thx for the comments re the steering issue. I have checked carefully and i dont see any sort of anti-theft device on column. I jacked it up and there seems to be play in the front end and king pins, but the steering wheel is absolutely frozen. I dont have a big enough socket for the pitman arm, it looks to be about a 11/2 in nut. Will need to get a larger socket set.

I dont have a repair/owners manual so not sure how to tackle the steering box.

Thx for the restoration pictures, very interesting, but nothing on the steering column or box.

Try removing the other end, pull cotter key and back out plug on the other end of the drag link and drop the drag link from the pitman arm; you can then isolate where the issue is. If the steering wheel is then free it is the front linkage.

LOOKING AT YOUR PICS IT MAY BE BECAUSE YOU HAVE THE FRONT WHEELS ON THOSE ROLL AROUND THINGS, JACK UP FRONT END AND FREE THE WHEELS BEFORE YOU TRY ANYTHING ELSE

Thanks for the comments. Well, I got the Pitman arm off and the front wheels basically turn beautifully on the wheel dollies. No issues with front end. Unbolted the gemmer steering box from the frame, trying to remove it. Started to loosen the large coupler at the top but see that this pushes the whole mechanism forward, as it seems to be attached to the steering column on a race? Realizing I don't know #$#& about steering boxes. Soaked everything in penetrating oil again, will check tomorrow and see if I can catch a break and it will loosen up. I think she would be good to go if I can get the steering issue sorted.

Well I had to remove entire steering box, major job, everything coated in dirt and grime, steering shaft is absolutely frozen, does not rotate at all, how do I get the steering shaft off of the worm gear? Any suggestions?

Looking for some help again on the steering box issue. I was able to strip out the box and steering column, took it to a professional who soaked the disassembled box in a penetrating liquid for a few wks and it finally came apart. He believes I need a rebuild kit including bearings, bushings, seals and sector shaft. He is not able to find the parts.

Any ideas where I might find parts, or interchangeable years/models/makes that would have a similar gemmer box as above?

Really hoping the experts can give some guidance, otherwise I am at a standstill.

Thanks

I am from Australia an I have 1926 Chrysler 58 with has got the same steering box. When I got my steering box rebuilt I could not get new bearing because they are not made any more,so had to get them rebuilt Penrite oil will be able to tell what oil to use usa website is www.3pconnect.com phone [909]476-6068 or try the Australian website www.penrite.com.au hope this helps

I do have spare sterring parts which is a gemmer 75

The correct fan belt is B34 if it is the same as 1926 chrysler 58 I also have a 1926 chrysler 58 instruction book second edition dated august 1925 This is an orginal book