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Hup 20 now running but a few issues to sort out


1912Minerva

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Hello all,

I now have my Hup 20 torpedo running - its first time in 50+ years I think. The motor starts on the crank very easily and idles nicely. I drove it for the first time today and it went Ok but there are a couple of problems. Firstly, I have heaps of oil coming out of the area where the magneto is driven from the camshaft. I have the cover on but oil is still pouring out. Is there a trick to sealing this or maybe a sign I have a bit too much oil in the crankcase?

The other problem is that the engine slows significantly when I put my foot on the clutch - everything seems very loose with the linkages so I am hoping with proper adjustment this problem will diminish.

Any help or advice on either issue, as always, would be much appreciated!

Regards,

Andrew.

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The petcocks under the engine will tell you if you have sufficient oil. If you think you have too much oil, run the petcocks until no oil emerges, then fill engine (via vent) until oil runs from front petcock. You can make a dipstick that fits down the vent pipe from an umbrella stay or welding rod, too. You can seal your timing gear unit with "Right Stuff" gasket maker. That usually works nicely. I can't figure the clutch thing. Does the clutch itself work? You're obviously putting a load on the engine when the pedal is depressed. Have you checked the clutch discs to be sure they are free and not distorted?

Phil

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The peacocks need to have a standpipe, think it's 1 inch tall, to maintain oil level in crankcase, make sure that they are in place.

Your clutch problem is due the flat bearing washers that are in front of the clutch assembly....I believe this has been discussed before on this forum, I believe.....my car did the same engine slowdown until I took everything apart and fixed....

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G,day Andrew and all. Assuming that you have bored the mag gear cover and installed a lip type oil seal to run on the mag drive gear you can further make an oil baffle plate from thin metal and install it between the cam gear and the mag gear to help divert the splash from the cam gear which is working like a pump. Make the baffle to just clear the cam gear. The drop in engine revs upon fully disengaging the clutch is caused by the clutch brake taking the pressure from your foot This is what they did. Edgar and other folk eliminated this by replacing the clutch brake friction plates with a needle bearing . I don't like the speed that the 1/8 needle rollers are doing so I elected to use the original type with red fibre friction plate. This wore too quickly and I replaced it with a phosper bronze disc faced with white metal. You may find that when entering your garage in low gear the clutch brake will want to stop forward movement of the car. I recon that the original standpipes were 5/8 in . We are running 3/4 and found that anything higher brought out leaks aplenty especially from the valve tappets. Max Burke Nulkaba 2325 Australia

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Hi Max and all,

Thanks for your replies. The baffle for the cam gear is a good idea and I think will largely fix the problem (why didn't I think of something like that ??).

Is there a way to adjust the clutch brake so it comes on later in the travel of the clutch pedal? I can put a bit of pressure on the clutch pedal to pull the car into reverse or first gear and off I go but when I try to change into top the car comes to a shuddering halt. Can you adjust the clutch pedal travel so it only goes to a certain point?

Does anyway have a diagram of the clutch / gearbox for the Model 20? The instruction book has good diagrams of the motor but not much on the transmission side of things...

When running, my engine has a bit of whining noise which I have noticed to some degree in most Model 20's - some more so than others. Is this the noise of the cam gear meshing with the crankshaft?

Thanks again for your help and advice - I seem to be making progress anyway...!

Cheers,

Andrew.

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