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1935 2 door dictator needing part source


Guest stuben

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Guest stuben

hello,

ive got this car and looking for a source for misc. parts.

Shes really all here but a few small parts. I believe I have someone interested

in helping me complete this car properly but I'm afraid of doing more damage then good.

any help would be much appreaciated.

thank youpost-100811-143142519348_thumb.jpg

Edited by stuben (see edit history)
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Guest stuben

Yes i did list this as a 37 knowing its a 35 my mistake. Thats got something to do with my condition. Thank you for catching that so fast.

I will probally misspell a few things from time to time as well feel free to keep me in line. Its all good.

As far as i know this car is complete, besides missing the trunk latch parts, I'm located in Mishawaka, In.

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Also a couple of damaged parts like the grill, Ive found someone that will repair the grill that said it wasnt that bad, hud caps and rings repaired and chromed or polished i dont

know whats best for the originallity aspect

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I'm not interested in trophys as I am in preservation any and all help and direction would be greatly appreciated

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Edited by stuben (see edit history)
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Guest Mark Vail

Hello, "stuben." I acquired a '35 Dictator 4 door late last year. I wanted a 2 door, so I'm a bit envious. You have what appears to be a very good, solid car there. I can't help much with parts, locating parts, etc. I'm in the same boat you're in. Yes, join the ASC as well as hanging out here. Here is a link to my photobucket with more photos. Just wanted to welcome you.

http://s814.photobucket.com/user/mtv8341/library/1935%20Studebaker%20Dictator?sort=3&page=1

From another '35 fan,

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Guest stuben

Thanks for the complments on her, My son and I went to the Museum in South Bend today, we talked with the achivest and picked up a master body parts book. Also got the budget locked in and going to create a seperate account for the car. (I'm alittle too spontainious with cash). I wish i had the interior already sent out and chrome in process as well. The truth is tho i have to be patient.

Mr Vail,

Your car looks very nice and quite original looking,

I will post additional photos as thing go along

one part i need as i learned today is 261346w f and there were two per car

your car has the same trunk latch assembly I need.

Mark

aka Stuben

Edited by stuben (see edit history)
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Guest stuben

This long weekend allowed my son and I to start on our 35 sedan, setting it on stands, removeing tires, the hood and fenders. The body plate is stamped 1A

and yet the suspension was independant on the front. I went to the Chassis parts catalog and found where the 2a dictator was stamped 1a and the the planar

suspension was equiped, the serial number on the frame plate also verified this in the note section.

When i orignally looked at it I didnt think anything of it because the body tag was stamped 1a.

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Guest stuben

Hello,

I'm trying to determine if the engine in this car is original, the engine number on the block is in this photo

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in the book it says d-27,501. I cant find anything like that.

here are some other photos of condition after removing the fenders, hood and cowl.

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You are making a very common error in mistaking the engine casting number for the actual engine number. The engine number is not raised but stamped into the block and will be found on a pad on the left side of the block above the distributor. The engine no. range for the '35 Dictator is D27501 t0 D62850 so your number will fit somewhere in there. Incidentally your cars engine block was cast in the Studebaker foundry on May 10, 1935.

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Guest stuben

Thanks for the heads up, the number is D 52112, its in the correct range for this car. The engine rotates but not free enough.

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post-100811-143142552396_thumb.jpgI'm taking it all the way apart anyways.

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Guest stuben

Thank you Rex, the link took me right there and its on the way.

Do you happen to have any back issues for April 1994 Turning Wheels?

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Guest stuben

after disassembly I found the connecting rod and main cap bearings need replaced,

I see there are shims on the numbers one and three connecting rod caps.

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Guest stuben

the rod bearing are original poured and the crank shaft needs ground, are there any sources for replacement connecting rods with bearing inserts

that anyone knows of.

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I don't know. The later Commander rods had inserts but I am not sure if they are interchangeable. But if you need babbit bearings poured track down your local old tractor clubs. They will know where to get it done. By the way back in the day the mechanic would just remove the shims and get another few thousand miles out of the bearing.

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The following will work for 36 engines check with others to see if you can use on 1935. (3) 520145 rods and (3) 520146 rods which are the later insert bearing rods. Check with Robert Kapteyn. who replied to you in #8.

He is in Joliet Ill. 100 miles west of you.

Robert Kapteyn

studebaker@mac.com

Talk to Rex who responded to you in #6. You are lucky to be located very close to these two as they have an immense knowledge of prewar cars and are very helpful. If the rods work find out what bearing size you need and get the bearings and main bearings at the same time you get the rods.

Edited by Cowtown Commander
Error in original post (see edit history)
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Guest stuben

Thank you Cowtown and nvonada, I've contacted Robert for the rods and bearings (hope hes got them).

The machine shop will call after the initial measurements. I'll be cleaning parts for the next few days and then painting

wish there was a stock color photo of the engine although i do like the carb and distributor in its patina glory.

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Guest stuben

many years ago the engine was repaired by a tractor mechanic, that would explane the john deer green engine and yellow oil filler and dipstick

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I went back and checked the parts book again, I forgot that 35 was models 1A & 2A and the parts book indicates those rods work in 36 (3A & 4A) so I'm guessing that they are not going to work on 35 unless there is some mod that can be done. Rex or Robert are probably going to be able to tell you if the insert rods can be modified to work. Sorry for error in previous post.

Edited by Cowtown Commander (see edit history)
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Guest stuben

I did not take it to Kaleys motor service instead its at shakers, he knows where to get the babbit redone as well but i would like to get away from the shims on the rod caps

thats where the over tightness was comming from and too much resistance. as soon as they were disconnected the crank would rotate freely.

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There was no Commander in 1936, only the President and Dictator. You definitely should invest in a parts book!! The best one for your use would be the green covered 1934-46 Chassis book. I do have a duplicate so contact me by pm if interested.

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Guest stuben

i have four catalogs, i thought i had three in a PM Studeq.

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I agree with you Rex, i would like it to be a simple fix like polishing the crank and honeing the babbit.

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Guest stuben

this is the the color of stuff i usually wipe off cars and post-100811-14314256956_thumb.jpg

im useing it as paint post-100811-14314256957_thumb.jpg

what color should the oil filler and dip stick be

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The 1935 Dictator engine is entirely different from the 1936.

The 1935 engine is a variant of the Cole-Vail engine designed by two engineers from Willys.

This engine design was used in the 1932 Model 65 and all 1933 Rockne's.

It was continued in the 1934/35 Dictators with minor changes.

This engine had a problem with blocks cracking and for the 1936 year , the engine was redesigned.

Water distribution tubes were added to cool the engine more evenly and prevent cracking the block.

The 1932/35 engines worked well if not abused.

Studebaker offered 1936 engines at very low prices as replacements for the older engines.

The engine mounting was different but they offered a kit to install these in older cars.

If you look at the divers side of L.H.C.1932/35 Studebaker Rockne 65 and 10 and 1934/35 Dictator engines you can see the outlines of the cylinders in the block.

On the 1936 - up engines it was a solid wall.

I have yet to determine the difference in rods.

As close as you are to the archives at the Studebaker museum,I would look at the blueprints of the rods and see.

A good machine shop may be able to machine your rods to accept insert bearings.

Robert Kapteyn

Edited by rbk (see edit history)
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Guest stuben

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Robert. Thank you for the input, heres a photo or the fuel pump location which is in the front of the engine,

Also the drivers side of the engine is in post #15 and 24.

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Guest stuben

Hello, Ive found a person to babbit my connecting rods, also have purchased cam bearings but I am still looking for main bearings, undersized by .015 to .020

If anyone has a lead as to where i might find aftermarket or original I would really appreciate it, thanks

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Guest stuben

Without damageing the air cleaner, how or where does it come apart.

Its just setting on the carb, I want to disassemble the Air cleaner.

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  • 4 weeks later...

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