early twin six packards

is there a forum for the early twin six Packards?

Not aware of any forums exclusively for early twin sixes but there are some of us on here who follow them closely, including the Roster Keeper: Twin 6.

Do you have any specific questions, pictures or other information that would be of interest to us?

Yes,back in April I ask if anyone knows how to remove the crossover coolant tube in the crankcase and got no repond.

In the past I have had other tech questions with no response.

I know it probably isn't a big group but I could sure use some help.

I am trying to remove the trans from the engine.Itfeels like there is something more holding the trans besides bell housing bolts so I wanted to know if there is something else holding I need to remove that the book isn't showing or is it just hanging up.

Not a forum but they may be able to put you in contact with someone able to help :http://www.packardsonline.com/

I'd suggest you post your questions on The Packard Club forum; a few questions on early Twin Sixes have been posted there in the past and someone did come forward with advice.

Which series are you working on? As you no doubt know, 1st and 2nd series cars had the transmission levers between the driver and the door/body whereas 3rd series was conventional shifter in the middle of the cockpit mounted on top of the transmission.

Are you an owner or restorer?

You should find that the clutch is a multi-plate unit. The only problem I ever had with a clutch of this type not wanting to withdraw from the outer splined sleeve that is bolted to the flywheel was on a well worn Mercer Six, where the outer sleeve was worn so the multi-disc assembly would not slide out easily. You should be able to remove those bolts if you can turn the crankshaft as you go.

On the water cross tube, I do not have my engine where is easy to look. Either way, whether it is a tube inserted , or a feature of the casting itself, you may have to bore and sleeve.

Not a forum but they may be able to put you in contact with someone able to help :http://www.packardsonline.com/

THANKS!

Which series are you working on? As you no doubt know, 1st and 2nd series cars had the transmission levers between the driver and the door/body whereas 3rd series was conventional shifter in the middle of the cockpit mounted on top of the transmission.

Are you an owner or restorer?

IT IS THE THIRD SERIES.

A 1921

I AM A RESTORER BUT THIS IS MY PERSONAL CAR.

IT LOOKS TO BE A BRASS TUBE PRESSED INTO THE CASE.

I WAS JUST HOPING SOMEONE HAD DONE THIS BEFORE AND COULD SHARE SOME DOS AND DONT'S.

Can you describe and show photos that can help us understand what your problem is. I guess you really need to know what the region looks like from underneath inside the crankcase. The friend from whom I got most that I was lacking had his crankcase and sump stole by some mongrel in Auckland NZ, which meant that his project was destroyed. What I had initially was some remains of a 1922 short wheelbase Runabout which had Buffalo Rudge Whitworth wire wheels. The engine still has compression and the speedo only shows forty or fifty thousand original miles. I know the water pump and the transfer pipe the other side are taken off but with it. There is very little room around it but I will try to get in close with a torch. When it comes to fitting a replacement cross tube the process should be simple enough. You may have to make the tunnel to size so that the tube you decide to use, whether it be brass, copper, or stainless steel, is a shrink fit. The interference size you will have to decide according to the coefficient of linear expansion of the material. If it is possible it may be good to turn the engine or crankcase on its side so the hole is vertical. Then you can block one end of the sleeve with a non-metallic plug, sealed with an elastic material like silicone rubber. Then you fill the tube with liquid nitrogen, and slide it in to a stop on the other side. That is as much as I can suggest without knowing more.

Can you describe and show photos that can help us understand what your problem is. I guess you really need to know what the region looks like from underneath inside the crankcase. The friend from whom I got most that I was lacking had his crankcase and sump stole by some mongrel in Auckland NZ, which meant that his project was destroyed. What I had initially was some remains of a 1922 short wheelbase Runabout which had Buffalo Rudge Whitworth wire wheels. The engine still has compression and the speedo only shows forty or fifty thousand original miles. I know the water pump and the transfer pipe the other side are taken off but with it. There is very little room around it but I will try to get in close with a torch. When it comes to fitting a replacement cross tube the process should be simple enough. You may have to make the tunnel to size so that the tube you decide to use, whether it be brass, copper, or stainless steel, is a shrink fit. The interference size you will have to decide according to the coefficient of linear expansion of the material. If it is possible it may be good to turn the engine or crankcase on its side so the hole is vertical. Then you can block one end of the sleeve with a non-metallic plug, sealed with an elastic material like silicone rubber. Then you fill the tube with liquid nitrogen, and slide it in to a stop on the other side. That is as much as I can suggest without knowing more.

Thank you for taking time out of your day to give me such a detailed impressive answer.